Backyard lazy ground straw

Did67 Lazy Potager: gardening effortlessly with hay

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Le Potager du Sloth: garden without efforts with hay. Hay: a super-material "in 4 1"

DR photos: Didier Helmstetter.



Introductory Photo: vegetables grown in soil never worked - or spade or hoe or hoe or Grelinette ... And of course, without the use of power tiller!

The use of hay, instead of other materials (straw, compost, bark, leaves ...), is the key to the device. It plays critical roles 4, allowing the gardener to laze.

First, like any opaque coverage (if the thickness is sufficient), it blocks the annual weeds that germinate more. No need to hoe or draw.

Then he has a high biological life in the soil, including earthworms (especially the group of "anecic worms" digging vertical galleries). They are numerous and very active as well fed. In reality, it is a whole armada of agencies who set to work to "work" and build the soil. This activity results in the secretion of glues. It initiates a process of "aggradation" the ground (this is the opposite of "degradation"). So naturally, without any work, this results in a few months, a soil "which looks like couscous." No need to dig or move the Grelinette. "And do not use tiller that killing worms by shredding! "

Earthworms and straw
In "scratching" a little, worms are everywhere, under the cover that nourishes and protects ...
castings
The "worm castings" are indications of intense activity of a group of worms - worms "anecic" who are the real helper gardener, those who dig vertical galleries ... For there "to and from"!

Furthermore, the cover protects the soil and its agencies against aggression: the "lumps" (aggregates) which form are not degraded by the impact of raindrops; even under severe thunderstorms, and despite the slope, he has no trace of erosion, no fine particles carried away; fertility remains. Protected from the wind and sun, the soil is kept moist which promotes the activity of organisms and plant growth. No need to weed to keep the soil loose and airy.

Finally, the decomposition of hay provides the ground, and thus the plants all the nutrients required for growth. Not just the few "major" elements (the famous NPK) that brings with fertilizers. These items were taken from the meadow at the grass growth, which absorbed everything a plant needs. Hay is also a "very complete organic fertilizer," slow release since it must first be broken down, which occurs naturally as the pace of plant growth (soil organisms undertaking it follow as the seasons). Needless to fertilize! Even the manure, "which is what remains of the hay when he passed through the digestive tract of animals, which have taken their nutrients are mixed with straw, even poorer," is meaningless!

Lettuce home more than organic garden
Lettuce grown without tillage without fertilization, without any treatment ... super!

That, in a very short, "natural spring" on which this approach rests ... And that is why the results are so spectacular.

It should be noted that the straw (except to use the "organic" straw) contains residues of various treatment suffered by the cereal, including fungicides often sputtered just weeks before harvest shorteners, herbicides, while the hay from natural meadows has generally not been processed. "All the more reason to focus hay instead of straw! "...

Last surprise: "It is also noteworthy that this way of doing much better and faster operation by installing a vegetable garden in a meadow or grass or even a wasteland." In a "classic" garden, the ground has been bludgeoned and partially poisoned, the population of anecic to be low or non-existent in the case of intensive use of the tiller, mineral fertilizers and certain pesticides even "organic" (copper , commonly used in "organic" is a poison for the soil, worms, fungi, mycorrhizae; he fixed it). In the case of such a soil, it will persevere sometimes half a dozen years before the natural mechanisms will take over again! In a meadow, simply 6 1 month or year so that everything is "top"!


Bonus: Didier video that presents the Sillon'netSmall tool design (with the help of members Site of econology forums) To cut hay on the ground

More:

Monitoring work on the garden of Didier H. from 2014

Introduction to the Kitchen Garden Sloth

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45 comments on "The Kitchen garden of Lazy Did67: gardening effortlessly with hay"

    1. Once installed, the bindweed is indeed a problem. In "classical gardening" as with my way of doing. Even the very controversial herbicide of the very controversial brand promises its eradication. You can try it, but it will come again!
      The best when you can: start from a non-polluted meadow, without bindweed, and not install it (by buying or exchanging seedlings).
      For my part, one half of the garden is virgin and another half is an old garden, again become grassland, "moderately" contaminated. As I spare myself a lot of work, I devote a few minutes a day to snatch it, as deeply as possible. In two or three years, it is exhausted, after being "bonzaïsé". Provided never leave him any chance - as soon as there are leaves, the rhizome "recharges" into energy.
      The subject is approached several times in econolgie: https://www.econologie.com/forums/agriculture/jardiner-plus-que-bio-en-semis-direct-sans-fatigue-t13846.html [Use "bindweed" in the internal search engine of the site]
      The Lazy Gardener

      1. Hello
        When and how to water in permanent mulch?
        I am new and I find such information indicates that for most plants it is not advisable to wet the leaves
        Is there a video on the subject please?

    1. To my knowledge, this is not the region or the weather playing.
      The method is only effective against annual weeds, which recover each year. And this on two conditions: a) to maintain a layer permanently, from one end of the year to the other of the year; B) maintain a layer thick enough to "block" the light (I put about 20 cm of hay packed late in autumn or very early at the end of winter, it is not against the "perennial" weeds , Which survive underground from one year to the next, and in the spring they produce rejections, from the reserves accumulated in an organ: rhizome, tuber, strain ... These, I pluck them out. After a year of cover, the weed is removed, its roots, its subterranean organ without difficulty (except the bindweed!) And the perennials regress very quickly too.
      Finally, to be complete, one must not seek perfection: the first question to ask is "does this harm my garden? ". I always leave the weeds on the parts not occupied by vegetables: they make biomass that nourishes my worms; They sustain living organisms in the soil through the secretion of roots in the "biosphere". Why get tired of sowing green manure?
      The Lazy Gardener

  1. Hello, in the meadow how you put in culture, just not enough hay or you sow in the hay and not in the ground ???? I do not know much. thank you

    1. In the meadow, in the first year, I do not sow. I muck, I cover with a thick layer of hay and plant (plants raised in buckets), even if the soil is "hard" ... And so I pull a few "perennials", that will pierce that. About 6 months later, there is no trace of "herbs". In autumn or the year after, I can sow without problem with my furrows ...
      But it is better always to sow in the soil, in furrows. Since the hay is also there to "block" the germination of the annuals, it will block the germination of what you sow - it does not make the difference! So you have to open up furrows, so that light comes to the ground, and sow in there, from the second year on.
      You will understand that I have not been possible to explain everything in one article. I invite you to follow on econology, where it is best explained on 140 pages!
      Didier, the Lazy Gardener.

  2. I practice a bit like that; some tillage and lots of mulch (hay, mowing ...).
    I agree with Didier but I 2 problems:
    Blackbirds that systematically disrupt my mulch ... and the seedlings with! (I put more hay, the more I blackbirds). How to hunt blackbirds?
    Moles that are feasting earthworms and transform the field rollercoaster ... by cutting some plants on their way. (I trap a dozen every year, but it always comes).
    It becomes a big problem, to the point where I think temporarily stop mulching.
    I also have a ground invasion of ants and aphids roots in my greenhouse from 2 years, but I do not think it's related to mulching. How to get rid?
    ... But not her little problems!

    1. Sorry, I had zapped at the time:
      - I have the same problem with blackbirds; They are attracted by the "epigé" (surface) worms, a pole of choice for them; I stretch nets against the seedlings; For the more developed plants, it does more damage ...
      - I did not think that moles can achieve such development and become pests; they are indeed attracted to; they can cut the roots in their path but do not do the same damage as land voles or rats taupiers, I mass; and I trap ...
      - I also had, this year, ants and root aphids (I think that underground as they do on plants, ants "raise" and milking aphids); I put this on the account of the imbalance created by the excess rainfall in early summer, too cold ground and the absence of any auxiliaries this year ... The greenhouse is a "complex system", more artificialised. I do not have any yet but I think of it ...

    2. hello for blackbirds I put the transparent metal, no, I joke, I put wire mesh with a mesh X 75 100 mm I put on the floor. I transplanted the cracks. if I sowed I go from time to time and I run the sheets if necessary. for moles take a bowl to bury rounded edge so that this edge is flush to the ground, put 5cm water so that the mole learn to swim, and especially around water well. attracts moisture to attracting moles. for aphids I use a lot of absinthe infusion + black soap and also tomato manure (leaves or shoots) I'm more compost heap in a corner of the garden I put everything between plants or vegetables and nature does the rest what good tire
      in 2016 I used 400l water, including sprays

  3. For a few weeks I started booting a vegetable garden lazy, see: https://www.econologie.com/forums/agriculture/comment-commencer-un-potager-du-paresseux-les-etapes-et-conseils-t14895.html

    I think we can add a 5th effect (indirectly included in the term "protection" in the 3ieme of the list of Didier but I think it deserves a clarification): it is the effect of thermal protection!

    Indeed; more than the straw used in permaculture, a beautiful hay blanket thermally protects the soil: I notice every time when I drop food composting in the evening under the layer of hay, there are a few degrees of temperature difference! So that said higher temperature said significant biological activity!

    I see a disadvantage: in case of "contamination", "parasites" (in the broad sense) may not be totally killed by frost in winter!
    The popular thought (perhaps false ???) claims that after a good cold winter, the soil is "decontaminated" ...

    1. Everything will depend on the duration of the cold episode ... This "smooth" the temperature variations. But after 15 days of - 10 °, this will not prevent some cleaning ... On the other hand, a stealth 15 ° one or two nights, will have much less effects ...
      The insulation will slow the rise in soil temperature in spring or at the end of winter. It will be rather a defect. It will cultivate patience, before sowing or planting. Biological cycles are long ... My experience, except this year! Was that it tended to catch up with pus then strong growth ... A nuance of course depending on the culture ... For the first radishes, we may have to wait ...

      1. Hello Didier and thank you for sharing your experience. Currently I am a market gardener practicing a rather "bio-intensive" system but I am not satisfied. I'm moving this winter, which gives me a chance to start from scratch, and your system draws me a lot. About the spring, which was one of my brakes just right. Do you think it would be possible and profitable to remove the mulch in February and March to warm the soil and avoid stunting? As a "pro", I can hardly afford a delay, and I do not want to cover my greenhouse garden to meet this deadline ...
        Or, use the black tarp over mulching, would it be effective to raise the temperature?
        thank you,
        Julian

    1. No no. We must "cultivate laziness," and therefore do as little as possible. There, the grasses will come alive slowed, the leaves will be damaged, the stump will remain. You go over it! Without light, it will not go back. If you put thick enough, it can not break through.
      Only perennial will break (dandelion, sorrel, thistle, plantain, bindweed is there ...). It takes you, the first year the snatch as gently as possible through e hay, trying to get the roots or rhizomes or bulbs (depending on the plant).
      cordially
      Did67

  4. Hi,
    I have an organic vegetable garden ,, so I work with Grelinette I wanted to know if I had to remove the weeds before putting hay, I'm already doing the same thing, with straw.
    Merci de votre réponse
    Jeanne

    1. You drop the Grelinette also ... At best, it's useless. At worst, it's a bit harmful (unless the spade certainly, far less than the tiller, of course) ...
      cordially
      Did67

  5. Didier Hello, thank you for sharing your knowledge, you only put light for free, or just you alone speak.
    It's been a year since I've been thinking about changing my life for personal reasons, so I'm going to become a marketer and also sell "derivatives" of my crops. For a year I watch all the videos that have attracted to permaculture, and I make a statement at once sad and reassuring: sad because you are the only one in France (I only watch French videos) to expose in a scientific way Share your work as an agronomist) the functioning of a basement, and reassuring because you dared to do it, and that we can finally learn. So I think I can say that in terms of permaculture (word a bit outdated in our context) you are undoubtedly the most perfect of the professors. Certainly the experience of associated plantations or others you may lack, but the basic bases of a perfect basement are only highlighted by you scientifically.
    All lovers of permaculture will see Damiens Dekarts and other beautiful people who
    some experience of permaculture and we (fans) are dreaming. They make us want to try ... but you give us you the scientific explanation of how to get there: becoming earthworm breeder and develop mycelium. Finished grolinette or other absurdities as views among those who claim permaculteurs. Without you the ointment, but thank you, I would say only one thing: the concept of permaculture has been 1928 in Japan (to believe internet), but the real strength of this permaculture director, the first who highlighted fundamental for there (breeder worms) is a Didier67 called in 2016, with hay ... I see you too humble to say so publicly, but upon reflection, I think it is as you endossiez the real costumes that you really deserve: Inventor of the econology. it is simply the shape was the most perfect of permaculture .... Permaculture basic econologic.
    Didier For all this, thank you, in the name of humanity, I thank you doubly.
    Signed a man who finally has the answers to his questions.

  6. Bonjours didier. Adept always from the garden more than natural. I'm never treated anyway. I do not weed very much for myself. I share my garden with the "weeds" of the blow I raise to the passage of manifestations papillions with the plantain and I am delighted to see feeding the I 'll be able to clean my animals (direct rabbits) direct to the garden without going through the compost, and all summer the grass clippings on top of it. I will pass on the remarks of my neighbors to the old ones, to 5h of the matting to desert a garden already nickel of a soil return to the jurasic and treat to almost all in case ... I often "beat" them with more "beautiful" vegetables.
    And this summer I have discovered your videos, a revelation to me. Finally, scientific explanation is that spanked in my garden without knowing. So this year I did things well. 20 cm good hay across the garden. I have still kept the manure of animals for artichokes and rhubarb.
    Me remains the greenhouses? Even in services, I still eat tomatoes, peppers and lettuce.
    Hay also? I still have a good turf layer of summer. It must irrigate to press the hay? In winter the greenhouse is empty .the dry land and waiting for spring ....

    personal note, I my straw strawberry with fern of ground wood, a haven for earthworms.

    1. Sorry, I just skipped this discussion.
      I do not arroserais greenhouse. Keep as much dry hay. Do not wet vegetables. I arroserais plants only to drop by drop, under the hay in front of each tomato plant, eggplant, etc ...
      But I use round bales, which I held. Hay is so compact and the rest if we carefully place without ventilation.
      For the loose hay, I tasserais as best as possible, patting with a fork, or advancing on two boards on which I walk ...
      But I do not have a greenhouse yet, so I can not "guarantee" - I use conditional ...

  7. Hi,
    Thank you for all these comments ... I discovered and confirmed what I practiced more or less well, so it will help me.
    I look forward to the response to comment Stéphanie of 16 / 11 for greenhouse. I have one too, and even tomatoes but it's true, in other years it remains empty and dry land.
    I'm going to tackle me to extend hay everywhere. A small hope to smother clover invading my garden since 3 years.
    thank you,
    Fatima

  8. Hello,
    This year I'm going to make "a lazy vegetable garden", I watch all your videos and I find this gardening formidable. I have a question about slugs. My garden is infested with it. Despite the beer traps, and harvesting slugs every night. How do you proceed? Do you have a good idea?
    A big thank-you
    Véronique

  9. With what enthusiasm I find you I'm in Perpignan, I'll do.
    In this context the south, the sun and dehydration, how to manage the necessary humidity .Merci your response and your knowledge

    1. I do not support humidity - in the sense of humidity. My vegetables are exposed sunlight, this garden sloping to the west and south-facing (I have a hedge to the north). While in Perpignan intensity can be a little higher, I do not think it's a big problem, provided that the soil remains moist.
      And there, the permanent cover of the soil will play its part, keeping the soil moist and protecting the water reserves (within certain limits, in 2015, year of drought with us, I put drip- Goutte ", plants consume water and even with soil cover systems, the reserve eventually becomes empty, as the most economical car tank will eventually be empty if you drive without ever No "miracle" possible).
      Is added the presence of fungi (see video on Youtube the same): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69HMVyFelkI
      - mushrooms have a "force" of water extraction about 6 times that of our plants (our plants arrive at a suction of about 15 bars, mushrooms about 90; mushroom recordman of the world at more From 900!
      - they "store" the water in their filaments
      - therefore the association "fungus - roots", called mycorhize, gives a remarkable capacity for extraction and water retention, which the plants benefit [on the internet, in relation to the truffle, to make a search on «the burned ", This area under a tree where the grass dries because the filaments of the truffle" prick "water].
      If we had shade is by alternating tall plants (shrubs), planted in north-south rows that I would. As, vegetables between these rows are in the shade the 3 / 4 the day.
      But never forget that the sun is the energy of plants! So do not make it an "enemy" - wrongly (with the exception of a few shade plants). This is part of the many "bullshit" that a lot of gardeners do.

  10. I do not have a "big" slug problem, except last year, with the two wet months of May and June. I think the following elements contribute to this:
    - I maintain grassy aisles; these are shelters for the most important predators of slugs, beetles (often these glowing insect, bright green), but also rove beetles (not the legendary hedgehog!) ...
    - No obstacles: no edges, no plates or anything that may upset the circulation of these auxiliaries.
    I usually have a few slugs off the winter: they operate faster than insects; then everything falls into place, which means that I always some slugs, which limited damage, but suddenly, my assistants have also always room. Especially do not aim to eradicate ...
    My great principle is that in order not to have parasites, it is necessary to "raise" these parasites; This attracts the auxiliaries ...
    So I am installing, a few meters from my garden, a "garden of the hedgehog" (in the hope that there is one that occupies it), with plants very attractive to slugs: hostas I am always trying to combine two or three things: utility / beauty / biodiversity (the blue thistle is very pretty, it makes beautiful bouquets, the sunflower is pretty too and Feeds birds, etc.).
    Now, one of the problems, with slugs, is that there are quite a few species, each with its "diet". I found a big orange "sprawled" on an Indian carnation in the middle of the day, but when I put carnations of India between my carrot seedlings to attract the slugs, the whitish little snail mocked And rushed upon the carrots; I had to pick them up by hand, at nightfall ...
    I do not know everything about the ecology of slugs ... I do not necessarily have the solution ... Note also that the "composts" (badly managed) are often refuges because some species like organic matter at the beginning of decomposition…

    1. Hi,

      For slugs, all is said = the best way to manage them is in my opinion to have some harmonious ecosystem and the garden eventually balance out. I also think that the presence of hedges and shrubs allows the birds to roost, they are formidable predators.
      But you also have to learn to know the beast, so I invite you to watch the video of Hervé Coves "holistic management of slugs" on youtube. You will not see slugs in the same way!

      1. Hello,
        Indeed, this video helps to have a different perspective on the slugs, and therefore on the kitchen garden ...
        Did67

    2. Hello Didier,

      It's been a few years since I use the BRF successfully.
      Since 2 years, I'm your method of mulching ... with very good results if I could make slug jam.
      It works of thunder for earthworms, surface furnishings and all these living species that go with, .... including different slugs and other plant nibblers. And here is the cat. Everything that grows is nibbled at night ... while I sleep.
      They will quietly digest in the hay day. Neither seen nor known !
      I've never seen that ; Clusters of slugs that zigzate potato plants, radishes, beans, zucchini, eggplant, garlic from the Himalayas, .... Everything goes and no plant has time to grow.
      Since 2 weeks, the lazy method (and daily showers) forces me to make pruning slicicides and 22h snail shots late into the night. The lazy garden prevents me from sleeping! A height; -)
      The population has greatly diminished, but the leaves of the plants continue to be punctured; I can not determine by what. Small white slugs impossible to secateuriser? Earwires? Brown slugs that come out after my nocturnal passage? I do not stop replanting.
      Another problem last year: The furniture is on the surface but leaves the basement very compact ... which loves rats hit for their galleries. My method: Give some grinette through the hay, to "shake" the basement and break the existing galleries, mainly around the kitchen garden. Wireworm rats do not like non-stable soils.
      I confirm for sowing under a thin layer of straw; It does not grow.

      Arvi Haute-Savoie

  11. Good evening Didier

    I discovered your video yesterday. Since I devour them one after the other.

    My garden is an ancient coniferous forest on sand. This makes 13 years I started with persistent deciduous or not. For ten years I 2 about mowing once a year. Since 2 years, I see a net growth of fungi (well visible), which seems to me to be a good sign.

    The problem is that if I develop crops more hay on site. The nearby forest full of ferns, I will wish to know your opinion for its use in coverage.

    cordially

    Michel

  12. Hello Didier,
    I am passionate about your videos and I will very soon start my vegetable garden ... Except I'm intalled at The Island REUNION where there are only 2 seasons, offset 6 months compared to the metropolis, without fear of a hypothetical gel ... By cons, pests and diseases ....
    Here, I can not find hay natural grasslands but hay grasses sown on land almost horizontal volcanic slag ... But there is an invasive legume (Desmodium intortum) which can go up to 1 m high : together with hay, it should do the trick ... (it is nicknamed glue adhesive for his amorous seed ...)

    I have huge problems to find some seeds (nettles, comfrey ...)

    I would report my tests and will send photos and comments ...

    Soon for your next videos ..

    thanks again

    Gérard

  13. Hello Didier,
    For a few months I'm learning on your videos and in November 2016, I decided to get into the garden of the lazy.
    I'm 14 1 boards mx m with 5 50 cm between for the passage, I covered all of 10 cm oak leaves my 10 cm wood and hay. All my former vegetable garden was covered and I took my tiller in my barn. A I also did tests to 2 boards 1.20 4 mx m bulging of 30 cm in the middle. To start I grew garlic, shallots and onions in bins of bulbs and I just put them away in the hay on the boards. There fortnight I have sown the beans by removing the hay by pushing beans 2 cm into the ground and putting above the ground, I would put the hay against the foot as they have pushed.
    Thank you to you for giving us so nicely all these details, for me, it starts to make me happy I stored the tiller.
    Pepito47

  14. For information, bulbs of garlic, onion, shallot are not afraid of the cold. You can just as well put them directly in the ground, under the hay ... They "pierce" when it will sing them. Just as do tulips, daffodils, daffodils ... The optimization of laziness is not so easy: too often we remain "convinced" that it is absolutely necessary to make "manips", in short, Existence ... A bit of a drug whose weaning is not so easy!
    cordially

  15. Hello here two weeks since I discovered your videos and thank you for sharing ,,, I am a lady of 58 years until the I limited myself radish garden salads and qq tomato plants and eggplant and squash ... I have the place but neither the health and motivation to have a garden as disciplined as my neighbors! ,, I have litter compost straw and hay sheep ... so I have it spread over part of the garden that was in grass but this is n may not be the right time! ,,, that you think? .. even if I do not cultivate at least the grass does not grow back or less ... .I m inspired by your experience and I'll keep you informed. ... thank you to you because you raised a motivation! ,, thank you

  16. Hello Didier

    What a pleasure to read, now I'll attack me for watching your video. A question, our house and its small garden (120m2) lies on top of a small hill of 650m. We often windy and I'm afraid the hay shall rejoice in nature when it will blow. I plan to put a net 50mm square mesh to flatten the ground hay. Is it a good idea? Thank you in advance for your reply

  17. Hello,
    I discovered with great interest your videos, thank you very much for this valuable information.
    Am I to understand that we can, without regret, to abandon the idea of ​​composting since you suggest to deposit food waste, and other adventises directly on the ground?

    Sincerely,

    Christian Haerlingen
    Experimenter permaculture past year in the region of Liège in Belgium.
    0032 492 20 17 00

  18. Hello, I am writing from Canada. I'm stumble upon your videos. As I try to simplify my life as I get older, your methods have captured my interest!
    I've already used straw on flowerbeds to control weeds, but to my dismay, hay seeds have begun to germinate everywhere, and I've had weeks to remove them!
    Then you will understand my fear of putting hay directly into my kitchen garden!
    So my question is: have you ever had this problem and how to pinpoint it?
    Thank you and good summer gardening and idleness!

  19. Hello didier,
    How to start? My garden is for the moment a prairie composed of tall grasses, nettles, brambles ...
    If I understand correctly, I have to mow flat and keep the hay so created to cover my ground. I have to wait for how long? Three months, more?

  20. Hello Didier, I did not know the kitchen garden of the lazy a week ago and I am very interested. I would like to produce my vegetables (courgettes, obergines ...), my fruits mainly on trees, my legumes (lentils, chickpeas, peas ...), some oilseeds (sunflower, rapeseed ...) and cereals (wheat, maize). And 4 hens for eggs. Only milk and meat would be bought on the market, everything else produced at home. In your opinion, would 400 to 500 m2 field be enough and how long should I spend there each day? I had also thought of a greenhouse to extend crop seasons and grow on vertical structures with compost-based crop and garden residues including straw mixed in. What do you think about parasites and productivity?

  21. Hello,
    I read some remarks about growing bulbs: onions, shallots and garlic on hay,
    I really want to get going, are there any more back? and advice
    merci
    fred

  22. Hello Didier
    Thank you for all your good advice
    You told us one day (at Biobernai) of a John I think, to provide organic hay.
    Where can I find it?
    Thank you

  23. Hello,
    Can straw be replaced by mowing grass?
    I made it last fall and this spring by raising this turf I discovered 20 big cockchafer larvae (big as a little finger) instead of worms !!!
    Living in the mountains, it is difficult for me to find straw.
    Thank you in advance for your answer

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