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I thought the gas heaters / gas consumed more ...
On the exhaust you show there is actually more problems to put the reactor! As against it said "noisy" ... At the limit if it does not clamp the engine does not bother me;) Otherwise would have to see if there are long enough to fit the reactor ...
I went to see the announcement of Guy: This is a Kadron scheduled 1300 1600 motor (not 1200) and it is quite noisy (exhaust tuning style) but there is still way to change the muffler for less noisy recovered on another car (to breakage or other).
The simplest installation would be: 4 1 collector - reactor - silent. For heat loss in the tubes of the collector, there is the tape, canvas style amiantée, to wrap around the tubes. It allows to isolate them. It is used in competition to the collectors of turbo engines for example.
As for changing a muffler combo of origin to put a reactor, I do not think it is possible easily: the silent consists of 3 2 rooms separated by walls pierced with small holes. The exterior rooms receive the gas cylinders 4, 1 and 4 in the right room, 3 and 2 in the left room. The tubes and cylinders 4 2 traverse the entire length of the quiet to go in the opposite chamber. The central chamber receives gas from other 2 and evacuates them towards the exit (combi) or outputs (cox).
For the heating of Adrien, there is something stupid: to have 500 Watts of heat, it is necessary to provide more 500 W to the heating system. If it is electric, knowing that the power is equal to the voltage multiplied by the intensity (P = UI), for 500 W on 12 Volt I = 500 / 12 = 41.6 Amps
Your original battery is Ah 65: 65 / 41.6 1.56 = hour autonomy of your battery with 40 amps
Clearly after an hour you start over!
It is good then to the pot that is in the announcement of Guy? I just silent lying around ... (which was more of the original pot when I bought the engine ...)
Heating is good because I keep heating tins! I just need to fix the shutters ... To stop, simply that I am well covered and it's good!
I have a dumb question ... How is the igniter hands? I alligne good features, with the normally positioned pistons, but that does not go completely ... There is a special technique? 'Cause there the engine is ready to go in my fridge, there's just that it gets stuck!
And the igniter, you sink in the block and you turned your finger until it sinks completely.
You put the engine ignition position 1 (not 3) and you've got more to plug the son in order (1-4-3-2 marked on the dynamo bracket). You made a static timing the lamp and that's enough to start. After you can tweak the strobe light but well done static timing works better operating (tested).
For the pilot light, if I not use a lamp but a contraption that Foit when the current passes or not ... like that when I see it happening hop I block, and I do not piss me off to have to find a lamp witness ... in made I ask a terminal at the taking of the switch, and the other on the rotor. What do you think about it?
For the pot you say best but most expensive. By Qu'entends you better? 'Cause if the noise bothers on this one, I change the silent ...' Cause what I see on this one is that I can put the reactor before the muffler, and therefore no need to m ' piss to put more reactors ...
I have a big problem though ... I just realized that I have nothing to fix the engine support to the chassis! I have the silents blocks, but not what attaches them to the spars! Because I thought it was the same as for 4 guy ... And then big galley nine becaufe it is not found, and too hot to find secondhand ...
Oh and another thing that seems necessary to cut a piece of the Type4 of gearbox to the engine type1 returned completely, but if I cut I could put the most type4, and it's super hard to find for type4 ...
Christophe is you know if I have the mod to do on a box type "CA" is with a kind 4 1700cc
good I leave you my girlfriend made the head
I suggest you contact Eric Simon of Underdog. It is a technicians Flat4Ever and his club Rennes
<a href='http://www.flat4ever.com/modules/clubs/viewcat.php?cid=11' target='_blank'> Flat4Ever </a>
For the second problem I have talked with several experts I know in Rennes, and they told me he had to see once the engine removed ... If I posted a message on f4e, so I would see good.
For the first problem, the message will be passed between different combi specialists reindeer ... to see if they have it not in stock. Fingers crossed...
To return to Pantone, you think it will be enough to you collect you the gasses that of a cylinder? Otherwise it advance your editing?
If this is not the case, I guess you do through the reactor to the combustion air.
Is there a downside to that?
I mean look he will cool the system will be t he "burst" into the reactor as fuel etc?
I recognize that it would be much easier to drive.
I have both my feet and my legs but just to drive a gas generator I find that it often hands off the wheel. I guess not too would look like a flash pass with a few pairs of valves to adjust the cabin ...
Adrian wrote:[Here the mounting Christophe (Kriss)
but now I understand the image you bring the reactor outlet BEFORE the carburetor.
So if the original fuel system is not removed you do spend the GEET gas in the venturi of the carb you and gasoline expenses as if they were outside air.
This essence will be in surplus and will end at the exhaust, in vain.
It would have the gas leaving the reactor are made in AVAL the carburetor to burn them "alone" without additional fuel.
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