Tips for mounting a pantone


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Tips mounting practices of your first mover "Pantone".

Introduction

These tips were written to be accessible to all, without means of specific embodiments and simply without welding with the plumbing equipment available anywhere. They follow the following plans (click to enlarge):

Obviously if you have more ways you can use them to improve this arrangement.

In any case, we invite you to present your achievements and observations the forums.

The more there will be testimonies, the system will have more opportunities to be better understood and mastered.

preliminary remark

These follow the advice Moose plan for a modification to a pantone engine.

However, these tips and plans do not need to be followed to the letter provided that the assembly has no vent and is achieved with a minimum of care.

We repeat this arrangement only serves to discover the process on a small mower engine in this case. In no case does is optimized for vehicle mounting (to discover mounts on vehicles click here ). Specify all the same that this installation you will already run your engine with heavier fuels (Such as heating oil, kerosene or more of crude vegetable oil or Diester). When we know the price of fuel sold in 5L canister for gardening, this could be interesting!

We accept no liability for using these tips for application on public roads.

First stage

The tools required are: pipe wrenches, crescent or variable opening, brake springs pipes, pipe cutters, tools for flaring tubes, Allen key, welding equipment, lime and screwdriver.

Get all the parts and tools in advance, see Parts list. Most professional plumbing stores have in stock the best quality parts as major DIY centers where they are cheaper.

But the savings are not large on a small project like this. The piece whose quality is the most crucial is the internal pipe, problems arise from inconsistent wall thickness, with thick joints welds on pipes poor quality making the assembly more difficult to adjust.

Second step

Remove the engine by removing the gas tank, muffler, and carburetor. Remove the mower blade and replace then with a steel steering wheel, a disc 12 "(30cm) diameter of the same thickness as the blade to be safe. This is obviously not mandatory for the change but contributes to your safety.



Third step

Take 1 reduction T "x1 / 2" x1 / 2 "and assemble them in a fitting 1" (a short tube), then by using a lathe, machine - in the end to soften and ream the hole in the end of 27 / 32 "(21mm) such that the inner pipe 1 / 2" can slide (slide) inside.

For those (many) who do not have access to a turn: you can also do this with a drill press to drill the hole of 27 / 32 "or 7 / 8" after the T and then use a lime to soften and remove the rough parts.

The tube connector 1 / 2 "and 1 / 2 T" will each have a smooth end to receive the copper washers to make a good seal.

Fourth step

Ask a plumber to cut your inner reactor tube 1 / 2 "to 16 + 7 / 16" and thread both ends.

Here, use of black pipes because the galvanized pipes give off toxic fumes if heated too. File the 12 steel rod "x 1 / 2" rounded shape on one end only.

Assemble the parts in the order as in the photo below using copper washers 7 / 8 "/ 22mm used for oil pan drain plugs - (reduction 2T machined 2 - 1" x1 / 2 "x1 / 2," joined by the fitting of 12 "long on 1", slide the pipe reactor 16 + 7 / 16 "long on 1 / 2" inside and add a copper washer each end and then add the T 1 / 2 ", the male flare fitting brass 1 / 2" NPT / 1 / 2 ", then a connecting 1 1 / 2" and an air mix valve 1 / 2 "

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