Recovery / filtration of rainwater

Work concerning plumbing or sanitary water (hot, cold, clean or used). Management, access and use of water at home: drilling, pumping, wells, distribution network, treatment, sanitation, rainwater recovery. Recovery, filtration, depollution, storage processes. Repair of water pumps. Manage, use and save water, desalination and desalination, pollution and water ...
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Misterloxo
Éconologue good!
Éconologue good!
posts: 480
Registration: 10/02/03, 15:28
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by Misterloxo » 29/04/04, 20:41

Hi gilo!

Well I think your question is answered on the page previously cited:
www.inti.be/ecotopie/eaupluie.html

I quote : "

# Materials

The tank must, imperatively, be built in masonry or concrete (any plastic is absolutely excluded). The acidity of rainwater (due to atmospheric pollution) will be neutralized by the lime and magnesia contained in the materials of the tank.


#Type

The ideal is to divide the tank into two compartments: the first (10 to 20% of the volume of the largest) being a settling tank whose surplus feeds the largest. This solution allows easier and more economical water maintenance. To avoid unwanted fermentation in the tank, an aquarium aerator should be placed there.

"
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Learning disobedience is a long process. It takes a lifetime to reach perfection. "Maurice Rajsfus
To think is to say no. "Alain, philosopher
Philflam
I learn econologic
I learn econologic
posts: 18
Registration: 09/03/04, 11:56




by Philflam » 05/05/04, 20:06

Guest wrote:ahhh loxo;)

with schauberger and plocher we touch much less "conventional" systems (therefore exciting) we arrive at the limit of acceptance of "official" science;)

In this regard I have an extremely fascinating video entitled "The Masters of Water" broadcast on arte in February 2002 ... I think to put the most impressive extracts on the site very soon ... in a "videos" section :)

Did you find a way to upload the video to the site? : Rolleyes:
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philflamine
I learn econologic
I learn econologic
posts: 13
Registration: 06/05/04, 17:34




by philflamine » 06/05/04, 17:39

I can't download the videos, it doesn't recognize my identifier apparently :(
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Rabbit
Grand Econologue
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posts: 823
Registration: 22/07/05, 23:50
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by Rabbit » 14/09/05, 01:23

I add my little stone to the building.

I built 2 cisterns for 2 dif houses.
the first (content + - 13 M³) 10 years ago.
So I dug a hole 2.5m deep and 3M on 3 of surface.
the bottom is made of reinforced concrete, not yet very experienced
From the field, I poured a 20 cm slab of reinforced concrete (2 lattices
concrete 15X15 diam 10 separated by 10 cm.). the first 4 rows of blocks
of concrete with 20 belts of the same trellis over 1m. I poured concrete between
the earth and the blocks + -5cm. the following ranges were in blocks of 14 without
belt but with strong walls every 3 piles. When I run the slab
from the bottom I sealed a plastic bucket which is still there.
intended to place an empty cellar pump (water charge) to clean the
tank. the whole is closed by rector keyed beams. 3 cm
of reinforced concrete (lattice 15X15 diam 5). an opening was made.
closes with a double cast iron inspection chamber.
The hermeticity of the opening is done with generous petroleum jelly
spread at the join of the 2nd closing of the visit chamber (the lowest).
an overflow 10 cm from the ceiling has been planned and goes to the sewer
the intermediary of a siphon.

The entire surface of the tank (not the bottom I forgot) was whitewashed with cement and water repellent
and synthetic fibers (crack stop).

The water arrives through an opening provided for this purpose and is led directly
in the bucket (which already contains the cellar vacuum pump). the connection between the bucket
and the water inlet (pvc diam 110) is made from a stainless steel washing machine tank.

The idea of ​​the thing is that the sand and debris of roofs land as soon as
seal, the floating miseries are confined to the water supply pipe.
When they flow they arrive from the bucket. The pump is automated (timer) to turn 30 sec once a week and remove dirt
in the sewer. (no anti return but an air intake from the upper part of the tank.
To counter the acidity of rainwater, a bunch of limestone is piled up in the center of the tank.
For the ventilation of the tank in the event of bad odors (earthworms which
passed through the inspection chamber, d or vasseline, or drowned geese which end up sinking) I use 2 m of micro perforated pipe (for hedge irrigation) which I rolled up in a cone (3 turns) on a piece of wire mesh plasticize fencing . the mesh is fixed to the bottom by plastic plugs.
keep 10 cm between the bottom of the tank and the first turn of the pipe
micro perforates. An air pump (40 Watts) of aquatium blows air into
the pipe, which causes water to stir (d or 10 cm). and oxygenates the water.
Treatment 4 min per day around 1 am and around 5 am. for 1 week
then once every week for 1 minutes (timer)

I installed a fuel tank gauge (a sort of manual air pump under a pressure gauge) to get a precise idea of ​​the contents of the tank.

A submerged pump and a 200 l hydrophore complete the installation.
The house is 60 M² on the ground, the tank overflows in winter (for 1 month)
and is dry for 3 weeks to 1 month in August.
Water is used for washing machine (soap saving 1/4 to 1/3 less, dishwasher, WC and garden.

The 2nd tank was made with the same ideas, except that to make
the tank I have used well rings (3) of which 2 are superimposed. The
rings communicate with each other (content + -2.4 M³). cheaper
to the m³ as the 1 st anyway. Especially that for digging, I asked
a passing crane to make me the hole, 25 € that it costs me, made in
30 min. Less time than a shovel.
The top of the tank is made of 6 cm prestressed lintels.
rolls on without problem.
Above the lintels I put a plastic sheet, it even covered
of geotextile to direct surface water away from the tank.
a siphon. The whole is covered with 3 cm of gravel.
I only clean my tanks once every 2 years, sometimes 3 when I have
phlegm. There is no more than 2 cm of vase on each visit I make by
rainy weather in autumn.
To clean it is enough to pass the squeegee and to push everything from the bucket.
D or c is to pump to evacuate.
Forgot to specify that the tanks are equipped with a contactor
float that cuts the pumps when the water level drops below 15 cm. History not to grill the pumps.
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