Pump runs very often ...

[dedeleco]

In a valve a dirt or grain of sand can get into it and give a very variable leak from one time to another.

The booster must have a reserve of air which is blocked without a membrane, much faster.
Otherwise without air as a buffer, the pressure suddenly jumps from max to zero.

[Aurelmouth]

If the valve is sealed and the pump remains in the water, the column cannot empty.

Okay.

surely a physical law that I did not know ...

So if I understand correctly: either it is the check valve at the exit of the borehole that shits and suddenly the booster empties. What amazes me is the speed at which it would empty and especially the speed at which the pressure then rises.

If it is not the valve, it is at the booster level. Yet there does not seem to be an air leak (and I would hear whistling, right?).

Or my messing around mano? But how do you know?

Thanks in any case for your answers!

[Gaston]

What amazes me is the speed at which it would empty and especially the speed at which the pressure then rises.

I think these are two separate issues.

The pressure loss is necessarily linked to a leak (perhaps the valve which does not close well).

The fact that the pressure rises very quickly indicates a lack of air in the balloon (if there is a membrane, it may be defective, otherwise it is "simply" necessary to put air back in the balloon).

[Alain G]

Hi Aurelmouth!


In the booster you must put 80% air pressure versus the water use pressure, to do this you must completely empty the water tank and close the valve or valves connected to the booster, fill it with air at the right pressure and start the pump to increase the pressure and open the tank valve to bring the water under pressure,


There is still a leak but it will be less noticeable with the booster half full of air!

This leak surely comes from the valve and after filling the air you will see if the replacement is worth it!

[Aurelmouth]

Hello everyone !

I come back to you to take stock of the situation ...

In fact, it was the check valve at the end of the borehole that was dead (plastic membrane ... which apparently no longer closed completely). So problem solved.

Finally this one ...

This morning, as soon as I open a tap, after 5sec the mano goes down very quickly and the pump starts again. And the mano goes up super fast, sometimes exceeds the set maximum threshold and the needle takes 1 or 2 seconds to stabilize.

I do not think it has a link but yesterday I dismantled my oil boiler (I change the system) which supplied me with hot water. But apart from closing the valve that brings the water to the boiler, I haven't changed much.

Is it the mano who died? I don't think so because when it goes down there is actually no more pressure at the tap. If I do not draw water nothing happens, the mano remains at the same pressure.

Thank you

[Alain G]

The answer is in my previous post, you must use an air compressor to put 80% of the operating pressure but you must completely empty the tank and close the valve located at the outlet of it before d 'perform this operation.

[Aurelmouth]

Thank you for your answer.

I just emptied the booster to see and there was practically no water at the bottom.

What I don't understand is why add air. I have a 500l galva booster with drain at the top and drain valve at the bottom. In the middle of the finish, departure from the water + a little higher the mano.

But when I installed it I never put air! and it worked very well.

I have the impression that the booster is almost empty and as soon as I draw 1l of water the pressure drops and goes back up immediately with the pump which starts. My water shortage indicator does not light up so apparently no bp on that side.

[Forhorse]

A few photos and a small diagram of the installation would not be luxury, because playing the game of questions and answers to get details starts to be tiring.

[Philippe Schutt]

a significant variation in pressure is rather the sign of a suppressing balloon almost full of water since it is the volume of air which is elastic.

In a balloon without membrane, the volume of air at 0 bars corresponds to the volume of the balloon. With the circuit at minimum pressure (starting threshold of the pump) a good part of the tank is already filled with water (non-elastic). By preloading the balloon you recover part of this volume for air. But hey, with a pressure drop after pumping just 1L, the solution must be elsewhere.
leak tightness? An air leak could cause these symptoms.

[Aurelmouth]

But hey, with a pressure drop after pumping just 1L, the solution must be elsewhere.
leak tightness? An air leak could cause these symptoms.

Yes I had thought about it but apparently nothing on that side. When the mano is at the maximum (a little less than 4 bars) I should hear the air escape but nothing suspicious. The only purge I sometimes undo is the top one and it looks ok. I undid it and screw it up last night to see.

I come back to the fact of having dismantled my boiler. Can this have a link or simple coincidence? I dismantled Wednesday afternoon. Wednesday evening no problem with the pressure and Thursday morning the problems begin. But I don't see what the connection could be. I simply close a valve to cut off the water (waterproof valve because no water is passing).

Having a baby of 6 months, without hot water and delicate cold water, I would not be there this weekend to remedy the problem. I'm working on it on Monday, hoping to find a solution!

Anyway, thank you for your help. And for those who find the subject "tiring", they just have to read the most interesting posts!