A little trick to save water by watering the garden

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oli 80
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by oli 80 » 11/08/13, 19:43

Good evening, here is the simple trick to save water and water locally http://www.willemsefrance.fr/l-equipeme ... 82889.html

http://www.vitrinemagique.com/v/vitrine ... 0p2qqqe98g

these accessories are generally not expensive, so no need to tinker your pear from the watering can
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by hic » 12/08/13, 13:31

plasmanu wrote:The difference between zero is very little is very thin.

The goal is to put just the right amount of water where it is needed.
Less water is especially less time spent for an identical end result.

Some plants such as tomatoes and zucchini do not like to water the leaves.

For me the most practical is this:

Or the drip on which we can put a bottle : Mrgreen:
Image

Image

Or the bottle to which we can put a drop by drop : Mrgreen:
Image

Image

In both cases the water descends to the roots without touching the leaves or the surface.

Watering on the surface is not bad in itself if you have a lot of water
but promotes the development of surface roots
and the day we forget to water: HELL it's toast.

hi plasmanu

Novelty:
Organic systemic insecticide / fungicide treatment by root : Mrgreen:
ou
combine "underground watering" with "insectiside systemic bio"


mix with water,
Insecticide, fungicide, organic system (or fertilizer)
is absorbed by the root,
without contact with aerial insects

and decreases the dosage by 10 : Evil:

*** http://cat.inist.fr/?aModele=afficheN&cpsidt=8204108 ***
***
A new technique for endotherapeutic treatment of coconut palms by the root route has been developed using the ability of plants to absorb systemic insecticides through the roots. These can migrate, carried by the sap, towards the foliage. A series of experiments has shown that by taking a single root per palm, cutting it at a perpendicular to 1 m from the stipe and making it absorb in a plastic bag a dose of 5 g ai of monocrotophos, we obtains very effective protection against defoliation of pests
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by Did67 » 12/08/13, 15:59

1) What is the point of putting a drip on a bottle ???

I use three drip systems, all directly: the small dripper on "fine" pipes (I have a network to water all my green plants; advantage: flexibility to zigzag from one plant to another ), the dripper integrated in a "big pipe" (plants in line in the garden - ex: raspberries - very sensitive to drought; drippers on small pipes themselves connected to a large pipe (eg, two rows of tomatoes not super aligned nor regular; the small pipes allow me to go right to the foot of each plant) ...

But never a bottle! I do not see what it would do.

The principle of drip is to keep the soil dry between two rows, thus reducing evaporation; under the plant, a wet "bulb" forms, which roughly corresponds to the volume occupied by the roots ... To do this, combine low flow rates (the water must immediately penetrate into the soil) and long duration (2 or 3 hours) (the water must penetrate deeply so that the plants take root deeply and are well nourished ...).

2) Systemic "bio" insecticide

Systemic pesticides are old business; with the disadvantage of "putting it everywhere" (see problems of bees poisoning themselves with nectar / pollen).

Afterwards, I developed the "false good" idea elsewhere that what is "organic" is "healthy". What is of natural origin is certified "organic"; is not what is synthetic ...

However, certain natural molecules are severely toxic (nicotine, alkaloids, opiates, curare, hemlock ...). Others are poisons for the soil (copper from "Bordeaux mixture" - authorized in "organic". Or for bees (rotenones - authorized in "organic", a broad spectrum insecticide = which "shoots everything"). And some synhetic products are not or very little (plastics of heart valves, silicone of breast prostheses, etc.).

So "bio" systemic, you have to see !!!
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by hic » 12/08/13, 20:07

Did67 wrote:1) What is the point of putting a drip on a bottle ???

I use three drip systems, all directly: the small dripper on "fine" pipes (I have a network to water all my green plants; advantage: flexibility to zigzag from one plant to another ), the dripper integrated in a "big pipe" (plants in line in the garden - ex: raspberries - very sensitive to drought; drippers on small pipes themselves connected to a large pipe (eg, two rows of tomatoes not super aligned nor regular; the small pipes allow me to go right to the foot of each plant) ...

But never a bottle! I do not see what it would do.

The principle of drip is to keep the soil dry between two rows, thus reducing evaporation; under the plant, a wet "bulb" forms, which roughly corresponds to the volume occupied by the roots ... To do this, combine low flow rates (the water must immediately penetrate into the soil) and long duration (2 or 3 hours) (the water must penetrate deeply so that the plants take root deeply and are well nourished ...).

2) Systemic "bio" insecticide

Systemic pesticides are old business; with the disadvantage of "putting it everywhere" (see problems of bees poisoning themselves with nectar / pollen).

Afterwards, I developed the "false good" idea elsewhere that what is "organic" is "healthy". What is of natural origin is certified "organic"; is not what is synthetic ...

However, certain natural molecules are severely toxic (nicotine, alkaloids, opiates, curare, hemlock ...). Others are poisons for the soil (copper from "Bordeaux mixture" - authorized in "organic". Or for bees (rotenones - authorized in "organic", a broad spectrum insecticide = which "shoots everything"). And some synhetic products are not or very little (plastics of heart valves, silicone of breast prostheses, etc.).

So "bio" systemic, you have to see !!!


the interest of buried watering!
1.it is 12 liters per month for a foot of zucchini per m²
(check, since it's me who returns
1,5l bottle every 3 or 4 days)
2. limit the doses of pesticide applied
the majority of people do not live in a perfect world like yours!

and you! do you know how many liters you consume !!

Dear moderator,
you have the same thoughts as my conventional neighbor (how could I moderate it?): mrgreen:
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by Janic » 13/08/13, 08:35

did67 hello
And certain synthetic products are not or very little imminent (plastics of the heart valves, silicone of breast implants ...).
until the day (usually decades later) when we find that these products are more harmful than we would have thought. No living organism is made to coexist with synthetic products or even a "natural" transplant.
For copper, it is not organic and therefore the subject of controversy between those who did not want to lose their production (we understand!) And purists preferring to use less radical means. So not all of them use Bordeaux mixture, so don't put all the eggs in one basket!
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by Did67 » 13/08/13, 09:54

Hic wrote:
Did67 wrote:
the interest of buried watering!
1.it is 12 liters per month for a foot of zucchini per m²
(check, since it's me who returns
1,5l bottle every 3 or 4 days)
2. limit the doses of pesticide applied
the majority of people do not live in a perfect world like yours!

and you! do you know how many liters you consume !!



1) Yes. I can tell: each dripper is 2 liters / h. So I regulate by duration. I have a "duration programmer" at the outlet of the tap.

Now "12 l per month" is not a recipe for me (except greenhouse)!

The approach in the ground consists in following the "RFU" - easily usable reserve - of the ground ... "Full reserve" at the beginning of the season - every day the losses by evapo-transpiration + contributions by the rains. When it's empty, we water ...

In practice, I don't do this, I observe the plants and signs of wilting at the end of the day. I only water if my soil reserve is "empty" (sign of obvious water stress). This year, we did not experience the wave of the first storms in Alsace after the heatwave, and there, my plants went into severe "water stress". This is where I installed my drip ...

2) It is not the systemic that grieves me.

Although we can debate the question of doses, depending on what the other side: surface treatment / treatment with sap (with much larger volumes to be treated!). So sometimes one is relevant. Sometimes the other (especially if the parasite is hiding or "internal" diseases - bacteria that block the vessels in which the sap circulates) ...

No, what was asking me question - I am not against it - is the association "systemic" and "organic". Not that it is not possible. But that I am not convinced that this "bio systemic" is necessarily less "'harmful"!
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by Did67 » 13/08/13, 09:58

Janic wrote: So not all of them use Bordeaux mixture, so don't put all the eggs in one basket!


A debate supposes that one is in good faith (honest in the argumentation): reread, it is just above. I never said that "all used ....". I wrote, and anyone can check it: "authorized in organic".

Did I write an error?
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by Did67 » 13/08/13, 10:00

Did67 wrote:
Janic wrote: So not all of them use Bordeaux mixture, so don't put all the eggs in one basket!


A debate supposes that one is in good faith (honest in the argumentation): reread, it is just above. I never said that "all used ....". I wrote, and anyone can check it: "authorized in organic". I could have specified (but this is not the subject of the debate), "with limitations" - 8 kg of copper / ha. Year I believe from memory

Did I write an error?
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by Did67 » 13/08/13, 10:09

Janic wrote:
For copper, it's not organic



Ah ???

Let's get along first: when I write "bio", I mean "labeled"" Organic farming "(AB or European" green leaf ".

The basics: synthetic pesticides / fertilizers are prohibited; pesticides / natural fertilizers are allowed. Copper is in this second category.

Faced with the toxicity of copper for the soil, some "organic" people forbid themselves (beyond the regulations therefore). It is logical (we are not "obliged" to use authorized products; we "can" do it ...) The question has been and is still being debated.

Again, I'm not saying everyone uses copper. I'm saying that someone who uses copper can be labeled "organic" without any problem (while "killing" their soils - which indeed raises debate!) ...

Since we are there: for rotenone, authorized so far, the situation is changing!

http://www.fnab.org/index.php?option=co ... &Itemid=17

To the problems mentioned in the article, I would add that it is a broad spectrum insecticide which "shoots everything" - including bees (even if it is not persistent). This also raises questions.

PS: I recall what I wrote elsewhere: I am for the "organic"; I work professionally to develop "organic"; but I'm not "an organic bigot"; these "critiques" aim to tell the truth; to make you think; not to denigrate organic ...
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by hic » 15/08/13, 16:55

Janic wrote:This is why mulch and more mulching reduce evapotranspiration and keep the soil cool and "moist". On the other hand, watering at the foot should only be done at transplanting and between the plants then, otherwise the earthworms and other animalcules take refuge in damp soil and soon followed by moles, other efficient plowmen who will then cut the roots.


Hi janic
I agree,
there is evaporation, but it is far from the massive evaporation on the surface of a drip (- without mulching : Mrgreen: )

The complementarity of mulching and underground watering is the most economical solution in water.

The water injection can be done wherever you want.
Except for the worst heat waves and lack of water (ban),
this will be done at the foot, because more eco!



remember that the main roots are at least 10 cm below the ground, 10 cm of soil on the surface which is not used for irrigation.
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Forbid to express the idea that the field is acceleration (magnetic and gravitational)
And you get your patent mental torture option executioner successfully

 


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