Eco-friendly wood dryer humidifier

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Eco-friendly wood dryer humidifier




by clasou » 18/01/09, 20:24

Hello,
Obliged to rack your brains to feel like you exist : Lol:
So, here as already said I heat myself with wood and also we know that the chimney dries the air.

This year the wood I got is not really dry and the temperatures are colder.

I do not know what is the loss of performance of a log that would be put to combustion in the chimney, having say a humidity of 50% (although I am not sure to understand this point).

So if my chimney is well in temperature is that I put a log say 10 kg at 50% humidity, someone knows what calories will be required for drying before it burns.

you can clearly see the water vapor escaping.

I recovered an acacia trunk I think freshly felled and remained in the weather and this morning I weigh a 7.7kg piece that I balance on the edge of the fireplace standing facing the glass.

tonight it is only 7.2kg so 500 gr of water is evaporated and the wood will require less energy to burn.

Do I have to file a patent: evil:

I also think that have a stove where it is more practical to put logs than me who will end up taking one on the foot.

The rest soon I hope.
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by clarilau » 29/01/09, 19:21

for a good combustion a rate of less than 20% is required

we say that if it's double in humidity (40%)
we will consume twice as much wood.
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by Flytox » 29/01/09, 20:43

There is also the solution under the insert. For mine, there is a "free" space of about 60 * 20 * 60cm. I fill it with the wettest wood (even rotten :frown: ) that I sold for dry wood a nice little bastard around.

In two or three days, it has dried enough to burn very, much better (not measured the humidity). The underside of the insert at a temperature> 55 ° and the air circulates poorly since it is filled with logs, it makes an oven. This makes a reserve of "dry" wood to start in all circumstances. : Mrgreen:
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by Ahmed » 29/01/09, 21:36

Even "dry" logs contain moisture.
20-25% wood is considered to be a correct fuel.

At 25% humidity, the combustion of one Kg of wood produces (theoretically) 3010 Kcal; at 40% 2300, at only 50% 1820.
The difference being, of course, absorbed by the vaporization of the water contained in the wood.

@Clasou:
The drying of your logs will absorb the same amount of energy produced by your stove, whether the wood is in the fireplace or in the room that contains it. The only difference will be better combustion after outdoor drying.

@Flytox:
In 2 or 3 days, only the periphery of the logs can really dry: this is therefore only valid for a wood that has regained moisture superficially (during a transfer for example), in your case it is a last resort.

To have good wood, the best solution, when there is space, is to build up a stock over 2 years.
If this is not possible, prefer a small producer of firewood (farmer for example): a large trader has too much throughput to allow himself to have stocks. This rule is not always exact, because some major producers shape the wood upon receipt at the end of winter so as to accelerate drying during the summer (for logs, it is not the number of years that counts , but the number of summers).
Also inquire with other consumers to identify conscientious producers.
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by Flytox » 29/01/09, 22:52

Ahmed wrote:In 2 or 3 days, only the periphery of the logs can really dry: this is therefore only valid for a wood that has regained moisture superficially (during a transfer for example), in your case it is a last resort.


It "works" not too badly because I take the time to divide my logs with a log splitter, into relatively small logs (like 5 * 3 cm in section). By doing this I spend half an hour / day : Evil: but the fire is clearly stronger, I gain 1 to 2 ° and the glass remains clean instead of being opaque in 3 or 4 days .... : Mrgreen: I guess the bistre is following the same downward trend.

I take the opportunity to measure the temperature again under the insert (with the Velleman DVM8810 Infrared thermometer) after 4 hours of operation I have more than 100 ° on sharp 1/3 of the surface without having made a fire from hell. : Mrgreen:
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by clasou » 30/01/09, 06:18

Hello,
YES it is said that oak to be considered dry has a humidity level of 15% and will produce 5 kcal / K of wood.

Yes I started to split the logs of 20/25 cm in diameter in four and I put them in front of the glass. I have not yet received the moisture meter, but the wood still dries more and burns a little better .

I also put the logs below under the arrival of fresh air and on the side but not really different from the parallel of the glass.

By cons, I think I'm going to change the chimney, among other things remove the hood, because with a probe in the hood I had 65 while at best leaving the air vents. I have 40 and moreover it is at the level of the ceiling.
So can be changed to make a bed or entourage in refractory brick without hood.
Maybe ceiling fans for brewing. Or there was a topic with stirling fans.

For drying the logs to see, a solar dryer.
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by the middle » 06/05/10, 20:43

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by dedeleco » 07/05/10, 02:18

The wood dries even in winter outside with dry air in cold weather, if under a shed in a well ventilated shelter, and sheltered, at night, from water condensation, which occurs under an ordinary tarpaulin or if the wood is in the open air, not under cover !!
Under cover, a wood dried in summer, rewets itself by condensation and therefore it is necessary at least a double roof as for the tents and a good natural ventilation, to keep the wood dry !!!
There are boilers for burning not dry wood, without too much soot, but very expensive.
In fact, you can dry it near the fireplace, with hot air, using the heat of the burning wood, avoiding overheating the wet wood and the steam that comes out, so as not to lose energy by heating unnecessarily. the vapor evaporated at 200 or 300 ° C instead of 30 ° C.
This difference in temperature and energy explains why burning wet wood is very inefficient, because in addition to evaporation, the water vapor is heated to the smoke temperature 200 to 300 ° C and more, by cooling these smoke instead of leaving this vapor at 30 ° C in the room !!!
Drying the wood in the room near the fireplace before burning it is much more energy efficient (we gain 200 ° C and more unnecessary heating of steam!).
If this wood is finely divided, it dries quickly, with dry or hot air and so we reinvent with chips, the interest of wood pellets, finely divided and well dried before use !!

It would be good to make your own granules according to this principle to burn them in a pellet stove with little smoke and a good yield and save the big price difference between pellets and wood !!
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by clasou » 07/05/10, 06:06

Hello,
For the middle ground.
It's a bit what I did in much less artistic.
The balance of this year I had taken for 240 euros of wood and I have about I think about 3 steres. So 200 euros of heating this year bill divided by three.

It remains to finish the insulation reinforcement and plug the leaks, when in the mass stove, I would have to find something intermediate because it may be greatly oversized.
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Re: Eco-friendly wood dryer humidifier




by hic » 07/05/10, 13:03

clasou wrote:Hello,
Obliged to rack your brains to feel like you exist : Lol:
So, here as already said I heat myself with wood and also we know that the chimney dries the air.

This year the wood I got is not really dry and the temperatures are colder.

I do not know what is the loss of performance of a log that would be put to combustion in the chimney, having say a humidity of 50% (although I am not sure to understand this point).

So if my chimney is well in temperature is that I put a log say 10 kg at 50% humidity, someone knows what calories will be required for drying before it burns.

you can clearly see the water vapor escaping.

I recovered an acacia trunk I think freshly felled and remained in the weather and this morning I weigh a 7.7kg piece that I balance on the edge of the fireplace standing facing the glass.

tonight it is only 7.2kg so 500 gr of water is evaporated and the wood will require less energy to burn.

Do I have to file a patent: evil:

I also think that have a stove where it is more practical to put logs than me who will end up taking one on the foot.

The rest soon I hope.
a + clasou


Hi clasou

Bistre and poor combustion efficiency = low combustion temperature (even poor combustion with creation of co co2)

the combustion temperature of wet wood is low by
evaporative cooling

for economical drying, a condenser is required
(which recovers calories from evaporated water)


If the yield increases, the quantity of fuel must be reduced : Mrgreen:

goodbye Hic
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