good evening everyone
Well the title is not great and I'm not sure I put the son in the right subjects ...
Question: according to you it is advisable to put some of the liquid used in solar panels in a conventional heating installation. Better heat transfer efficiency?
Risk for the gas boiler?
I await your answers before closing my circuit;)
(implied: don't delay too long, I'm peeling! )
Solar fluid in conventional heating circuit?
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Uh I'm not a specialist but the solar liquid is often simply anti-freeze water (glycol or equivalent) ...
The only interest of putting it in a "classic" installation would be, a priori, to be able to let the house "freeze" in the event of prolonged absence ... and yet I am not sure that this is "good" (or rather " not bad ") for the rest of the sanitary installation.
The gain in terms of heat transfer power is zero in my opinion ... but I can be wrong ...
The only interest of putting it in a "classic" installation would be, a priori, to be able to let the house "freeze" in the event of prolonged absence ... and yet I am not sure that this is "good" (or rather " not bad ") for the rest of the sanitary installation.
The gain in terms of heat transfer power is zero in my opinion ... but I can be wrong ...
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Good evening Pyvest
As Christophe pointed out, the only advantage of glycol (heat transfer fluid) is its frost resistance. Otherwise, its heat transfer efficiency is lower than ordinary water and moreover it is expensive.
My 40 m2 of sensors never go up to more than 70 °. I tinkered with a system to run them on ordinary water in summer and winter. The circulator pushes the water from a tank inside the house into the collectors. When the circulator stops, the sensors empty in the tank. The sensors remain empty when they are not working, so there is no risk of freezing.
As Christophe pointed out, the only advantage of glycol (heat transfer fluid) is its frost resistance. Otherwise, its heat transfer efficiency is lower than ordinary water and moreover it is expensive.
My 40 m2 of sensors never go up to more than 70 °. I tinkered with a system to run them on ordinary water in summer and winter. The circulator pushes the water from a tank inside the house into the collectors. When the circulator stops, the sensors empty in the tank. The sensors remain empty when they are not working, so there is no risk of freezing.
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Pyvesd wrote:there must be something other than water since the sensors rise beyond 100 °, otherwise we will have steam from the circuit and the pump will not be able to circulate the fluid and heat the balloon ...
Well no because it is under pressure and the pump is generally placed on the "cold" side (it pushes in the sensors as Cuicui says) ...
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I do not know the anti freeze for boiler.
For my part, for my boiler, I use auto antifreeze.
This for 2 reasons:
-My boiler running on wood, I had to place a radiator
outside to be able to cool it in case of overheating.
-The auto anti freeze prevents the different metals that make up this
circuit do not eat each other. boiler and circulator in cast iron,
reduction in boiler output in cast iron and steel, ducts in
copper and copper radiators but containing parts in
brass and aluminum.
I could have a 3rd reason, but I don't know if it is
I have noticed that my car does not overheat in summer
when I use anti-freeze, which is not the case with water without
this additive.
The amount of additive is intended to withstand -25 ° C.
For my part, for my boiler, I use auto antifreeze.
This for 2 reasons:
-My boiler running on wood, I had to place a radiator
outside to be able to cool it in case of overheating.
-The auto anti freeze prevents the different metals that make up this
circuit do not eat each other. boiler and circulator in cast iron,
reduction in boiler output in cast iron and steel, ducts in
copper and copper radiators but containing parts in
brass and aluminum.
I could have a 3rd reason, but I don't know if it is
I have noticed that my car does not overheat in summer
when I use anti-freeze, which is not the case with water without
this additive.
The amount of additive is intended to withstand -25 ° C.
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