[Tutorial] Make your soap: simple, cheap and above all excellent

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djo59
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[Tutorial] Make your soap: simple, cheap and above all excellent




by djo59 » 31/07/16, 11:28

I am doing this "little" tutorial to show you how to make soap using the traditional method of cold saponification.
Simple to do at home and inexpensive, it allows you to find the pleasure of real soap that actually rehydrates your skin (goodbye Nivea and others)

The 1st time that I experimented with this production it was not for the economic cost (industrial rotten soaps are cheap! Yes I am partial but if you test, you will agree with my opinion), but to finally find real soap without chemical additives, preservatives or beef fat and fed up with the soap that pulls the skin. Ditto for the shampoo or tell me "nice, my hair is shiny" thanks to the silicone blah blah.

Before going into the heart of the matter, sorry, but I have to go through a little blah to explain the thing but rest assured in the end I will give you a concrete example with the recipe for a real soap and its realization on video.

1 / What are the methods of making soap?
Cold saponification (the one presented here):
It is an artisanal method that allows to produce overgrown soaps rich in vegetable glycerine.
Saponification is the process of transforming an oil (fat) into soap + glycerin.
Unlike the industrial process, we keep all the vegetable glycerin produced because it is it that gives the soaps their moisturizing power.
The soaps are formulated so that some of the vegetable oils are not transformed into soap. This is called surgras. It is this complex of repairing active ingredients contained in vegetable oils that nourishes the skin and repairs the hydrolipidic film as it naturally re-forms itself.
In the “cold” method, the soap maker works in small volumes at the lowest possible temperatures and heats the only ingredients that require it. Thus, oils that are liquid at room temperature are used as they are. Vegetable butters (such as coconut oil, cocoa or shea butter for example) are not heated but just warmed to be malleable and able to be worked. It is these low temperatures (<60 ° C) that allow the benefits of the oils to be preserved.

Hot saponification:
The "hot" method is identical to the cold one except for drying which is done in an oven at a temperature of 50-55 ° C max in order to accelerate the drying.

Industrial method (Marseille soap type):
We start from the same ingredients: oils (often from by-products) and an alkaline agent, in very large quantities. To accelerate the reaction, and gain in profitability, the paste is heated to about 100 ° C (destroying all the properties of the oils at the passages) for several hours and it works by putting more soda than necessary so that the whole mixture is transformed into soap. At the end of the reaction, there remains in the tanks soap, glycerin produced by the chemical reaction, and caustic soda, which must be removed. The dough is then washed several times in succession with salt water to remove the remaining soda. The glycerine is captured by the salt, it is also removed during the operation.
Deprived of its glycerine (It will be resold in pharmacy, the cosmetic industry or for the manufacture of explosive products) and free of overgrazing, soap produced is often too drying for the skin because not enough moisturizing.
Once dried, the soap is chipped. We call them "bunnies". These can then be colored, scented ... mechanically and on a large scale.
You should know that almost all soaps available on the market, organic or not, "artisanal" or totally industrial, are made from bunnies.

This method represents 99.9% of soaps sold!

2 / Some definitions

SURGRAS : These are the non-saponified oils that will bring their properties to the skin. A "surgras" soap is therefore milder. In fact, a little of each oil / butter in your initial oily mixture will remain in the soap. There are 2 ways to superfatten the soap:
- by "reduction of soda": one but less soda than the necessary quantity. The remaining unsaponified oils are therefore the ones you used in the same proportions
- additional superfatting at the time of the "trace": By adding vegetable oil at the time of the "trace", that is to say at the end of preparation. This oil will remain unsaponified. This is particularly advantageous with expensive oils sensitive to temperature, or oils whose properties we wish to take advantage of in particular. Adding oil at the end of the preparation is also very useful for pre-dispersing other ingredients that you want to add (dyes, essential oils)

TRACE : The trace is that moment when the oils and soda begin to react with each other to form soap paste. Saponification is in progress, and the soap paste gradually thickens. It will gradually go from liquid to pastry cream consistency. We choose its consistency according to the aesthetic effect that we want to give it subsequently. For a soap "without" visual effect, the "clear" mark is ideal because it is easy to mold.
No trace: the paste is very liquid and leaves no trace. The risk of phase shift is important, we must continue mixing.

no trace.jpg
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Trace very fine: The dough has slightly thickened and leaves a slight trace on the surface. She laps the spoon in the manner of a custard. It's a good time if you want to divide your dough to make different colors.

trace very fine.jpg
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Fine trace: the dough has thickened again. If you use individual molds with fine decorations it's the right consistency

trace fine.jpg
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Trace: this time, the dough has thickened well and leaves a visible trace. This is the ideal time to put in mold: the paste is sufficiently fluid to be molded easily and the risk of phase shift is significantly reduced.

trace franche.jpg
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Trace thick: this time the dough has the consistency of a pastry cream. The setting in mold begins to be difficult and soap may contain air bubbles.

thick trace
trace thick.jpg (88.9 KIO) Viewed 35540 times


PRIEST : The cure is the time when the soap dries. At this point, the saponification is complete. It is therefore usable. Yes yes you can use your soap fresh out of the mold, it will not burn your hands, sting or even dry. It is a normal soap, the test of the language confirms us that the soap is not caustic.
On the other hand, 3 reasons to let your soap run clean:
- During the curing phase, the pH of the soap will go down slightly: it starts from about 10-11, to reach around 8-9, which is a normal pH for soap. This means that at the outlet of the mold, the pH may be a little aggressive for sensitive body parts such as the face or the intimate parts. But he is not going to abuse your hands. Wood ash has a basic pH too, and carrying it does not burn your hands. For soap it's the same. It is simply softer after the cure.
- the dry soap. That is to say that the excess water contained in the soap will evaporate, making it harden, take its final texture, reduce its sticky effect due to excess water.
- Soap stabilizes: its scent takes its final smell, the same for the color, the foam becomes denser and stronger.

How to have a cure of good quality?
- The duration of the cure plays a lot: three weeks to four weeks minimum are generally recommended, but many traditional soaps clean their soaps several months. A soap that has only been rinsed for a month is still young, unstable. The older soaps are much more pleasant, sweeter, denser, shorter, better. Like the good wine.
- The place is also important. I recommend a cure in two stages: a first time in the open air on a grid sheltered from the light, then in wooden boxes away from light and humidity, in a temperate place (20-25 ° C) at stable temperature. Light and moisture spoil the soap (colors fade, perfume is lost, fragile oils rancor). The wooden case protects the soaps, but as this material absorbs moisture, drying can be done properly.

GEL PHASE : The frost phase is a very common phenomenon in soapmaking, and that can be very surprising when you start. Here is an explanatory article on what the freezing phase is. First of all a small definition: what is called "gel phase" in soapmaking corresponds to a sharp rise in temperature of the soap paste during the saponification reaction. This strong heat results in a change in the appearance of the soap: it is darker, more translucent, and its texture changes. Some people seek to promote the freezing phase, to be sure that the saponification went well , either for aesthetic issues. Others, on the contrary, wish to avoid the frost phase, for fear of crater or round formation in the center of the soap.


3 / Material for the cold method
A / List of material:
- a wooden or plastic spatula dedicated to this purpose
- a plastic container or wood (especially not metal because puffed by soda) kind of salad bowl to mix the ingredients.
- A mixer that will no longer be used for cooking (soda)
- a kitchen scale to the nearest gram.
- a calculator to calculate the soda / potash needed for your recipe
- a mold (silicone mold, Pringles tube, milk carton, ........)
- protective gloves (handling of soda)
- protective glasses (manipulation of soda)
- Some plastic containers / wood according to your manipulations
- vinegar.

B / List of ingredients
- Your oils / greases / wax
- Soda liquor (hardware department): check that it is caustic soda only (usually measured at 30-30.5%) and no soda ash
NB: for those who want to use only water in their soap (no milk, fruit juice, ....) I recommend the sodium hydroxide which avoids the manipulation of pure caustic soda which must be done with care (exothermic reaction with risk of explosion if mishandled).

C / presentation of my calculator
There are many calculators on the Internet, I present mine here because I know him well : Mrgreen: he is in French and the only one to propose the calculation according to the volume.
It allows you to calculate the amount of soda / potash you need for your recipe. You can enter your recipe according to the weight of the oils used, according to their proportion (%) or according to their proportion for a given volume.
It also offers a preview of the final result of your soap, allowing you to search for your ideal "theoretical" recipe.
He also proposes to give you the cost of your soap.

Available in excel format: Excel version calculator
or freeoffice: Freeoffice version calculator[/ Spoil]
We will leave on the basis of a simple soap to know oils, soda and water only, no addition of dye (natural) nor perfume (natural).

4 / Procedure of the cold method

[spoil] 1 / determine using the calculator your recipe (X% of such oil, Y% of such oil, ....) then the rate of surgras (cf definitions) you want (classically 5%). Once your recipe has been chosen, remember to select sodium hydroxide solution at your percentage (typically 30.5%); from there the calculator gives you the weight of soda lye to use.
2 / Weigh accurately your different oils and pour them into your salad bowl
3 / Weigh accurately your soda lye and pour it into the salad bowl containing your oils.
4 / Mix everything until you get the trace (see definitions)
5 / once the trace reached pour all into your mold and let dry a few hours until you can demold / cut (the time pt vary depending on the oils used qlq hours 24h). I advise you to let it cool in a cool place see Frigo because some oils (including coconut / coconut) heats a lot during the reaction and can produce a freeze phase (see definitions)

NB: if during the manipulation, qlq drops land on your arms and you have poorly protected while having used soda lye, do not be afraid. It pecks a little, that's all. In this case wash your hands / arms with a little vinegar that will neutralize the droplets of soda lye.

6 / Store your soap in an airy place 2-3 months the time he does his cure (see definitions)

Congratulations! To you the joy of testing your 1er soap!

NB: do not hesitate to store them longer to see bcp longer. Good soap is like good wine, it improves with time.

To this basic recipe number of natural and safe additions can be made

- Clays (white, green, ....)
- Honey: moisturizes and makes the soap softer and more foaming. 2-3 spoons max max per kg of oils because it accelerates the trace and promotes the freezing phase
- Beeswax: Hardens the soap. Maximum of 1.5% of oils
- Salt: Recommended dosage: 80% of the weight of the oils (50% min - 100% max).
What's the difference? Harder soap bar. Increases or decreases the suds based on% (various sources). Slightly exfoliating and remineralizing depending on the chosen salt. Go back up the INS index. Risks? Tendency to dry skin (overgrading to 15 or 20% recommended).
- Sugar: Recommended dosage: 5% of the weight of the oils max. Increases the foam according to the%. Increases the risk of freezing phase in soap if too much dosage.
Personally, as a sugar I use sugar cane syrup which I have some stock.
- Cornstarch (Maizena): Velvety, and improves the holding of bubbles. 5% max of the weight of the oils.
- Natural coloring: Micas, natural ochres, oxides of cosmetic qualities hold perfectly the SAF. Food coloring, decoction of plant, spice (turmeric, curry, ...) are much more random in reaction with soda.
- Natural perfume: essential oil (the resistance and "strength" of the smell varies according to the essential oils). Natural decoctions (generally weak and random result because it is hard to resist soda). Only the cosmetic frangrances (and not all !!) hold the reaction to soda without batting an eyelid but some are totally opposed to it because they are chemical.
- Adding flower petals, .... Result mostly blackens with soda.
- coffee grounds, avocado crushed core, ... for the exfoliating soap side.
.............................

5 / Concrete example
This little tutorial is an intro to Saponification Cold. Pass the basic recipe, if you want to add various additions, ... I invite you to go on the web where you will find many sites /forum dedicated to that.

As promised, after a lot of blah, a concrete example in video.

These days I had to make 100% coconut soap again. While looking at the calculator you have a soap "out of the ordinary" for its qualities.

calculateur.jpg
calculateur.jpg (263.11 KIO) Accessed 35539 times


Note that this is a cold soap so no comparison with industrial soap hot and salted (type Marseille soap), devoid of (or little) glycerin unlike ours. So ours, rich in moisturizing glycerin remains without comparison with industrial machinery.
For example, it is with this same recipe that my mother gave up her cream Nivéa she used since these 6 years because dry skin.
Very cleanser so a little more drying than a classic cold soap made with other oils, I go up a little overgrazing rate of 5 8%.

I give you the quantities ONLY as an indication, they are only good with THIS oil, THIS weight and THE concentration of my soda lye.
For all changes (oils, weight, concentration of soda, ....), go through the calculator
Do not hesitate for an 1er try to make a small amount, myself to test new recipe I sometimes make soaps 100-200 gr.

Ingredients of the video:
- 1055g of frying fat 100% coconut oil (type Vegetal) to check absolutely, no mixture, no palm, no beef fat because the amount of soda would be different.
- 592g of soda lye at 30.5%

Sorry for the quality of the video, it's my 1ere video tutorial, and I was entitled to only one take. Not easy to talk to his wall : Oops: .
On the video you will notice that I do qlq small addition and a little color, but basic you can stop copra + washing soda and as soon as the trace arrives even liquid enough, you will mold direct. As you will notice on the video, the 100% coco trace very quickly even without mixing it so you have to be fast with the additions what I did not have here.

In the end for 3.59 € I get 1.5kg of super quality soap.

resultat.JPG
result.JPG (148.92 KIO) Viewed 35540 times


Regarding the choice of oils, some opt for very expensive oils, ... each his choice. Personally, looking carefully at their chemical quality (see spreadsheet), I remain on mixtures based on 4 "basic" oils for soap and sometimes an addition of another oil for its superfatting qualities.
- olive oils (moisturizing side)
- coconut oil (foam and cleanser)
- palm oil (moisturizing, creamy, and increases the longevity of the soap). I do not enter the debate of deforestation, .... In soapmaking it has qualities hardly substitutable (palmitic acid). Unfortunately by economic gain we are put everywhere where it does not belong, there is the real problem. Just as the day when we will no longer have oil for our cars, we will always use it for certain essential purposes.
- Castor oil: the only oil to provide foam without increasing the cleaning power. It alone allows to bring more foam in a recipe by reducing the oils providing foam but also the "cleaning" side (corrolar), because it alone has ricinoleic acid.

Then, by playing with their proportion, their quality, the superfatting and with a few additions I make my shampoo soap, my "hygiene" soap, my household soap (100% coconut by recycling my frying fat and without glycerin) serving as others to do my laundry. I also adapt the soaps to the quality of the skin of certain people around me, .....



There you have it, "intro" tutorial finished. Hoping to inspire some.
Good soap
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Re: [tutorial] Making your soap: simple, cheap and above all of excellent quality




by 1360 » 31/07/16, 20:58

Excellent !!! You set the bar very high.

I am in the mountains for two days, with very little network. I'll ask my questions as soon as I get back ... A +
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Trying too hard to get into the mold, it ends up looking like a pie.
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Re: [tutorial] Making your soap: simple, cheap and above all of excellent quality




by Christophe » 01/08/16, 12:16

+ 1 is the kind of subjects of econological practice whose forum (and everyday econology) would need more :)

ps: this tutorial could be the subject of an article on the site, see link in my signature :)
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Re: [tutorial] Making your soap: simple, cheap and above all of excellent quality




by Christophe » 02/10/18, 11:47

djo59 wrote:I am doing this "little" tutorial to show you how to make soap using the traditional method of cold saponification.
Simple to do at home and inexpensive, it allows you to find the pleasure of real soap that actually rehydrates your skin (goodbye Nivea and others)


We no longer see any image on the initial message ...

Hence, again, the interest of using the attachment function integrated in the forum...

Return them here in a new message via this method please ...
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perplex
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Re: [tutorial] Making your soap: simple, cheap and above all of excellent quality




by perplex » 02/10/18, 16:10

Thank you djo59,

Excellent subject.

Let's hope that Christophe find the small pictures would be nice.

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Re: [tutorial] Making your soap: simple, cheap and above all of excellent quality




by Christophe » 02/10/18, 17:29

I can not find them easily since they have never been archived on the server of the forum...

On the other hand, djo59 may find them on his hard drive or cloud?
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djo59
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Re: [tutorial] Making your soap: simple, cheap and above all of excellent quality




by djo59 » 04/10/18, 07:02

Hello,
Good luck, I managed to find / make all the photos.
I did not know the function attachment, I even had to search to find it, sorry for cons I do not know the commands to show the smaller photos (except resizesionionion but afraid that it becomes illegible).
On the other hand as I no longer have access to the edit function, Christophe there you access stp, I think it will be more readable to edit the original post.
calculateur.jpg
calculator
calculateur.jpg (263.11 KIO) Accessed 35575 times

trace very fine.jpg
Very fine trace
trace tres fine.jpg (68.45 KIO) Viewed 35575 times

trace franche.jpg
Frankish trace
trace franche.jpg (67.35 KIO) Viewed 35575 times

trace fine.jpg
Fine trace
trace fine.jpg (83.21 KIO) Viewed 35575 times

thick trace
Thick trace
trace thick.jpg (88.9 KIO) Viewed 35575 times

resultat.JPG
Results
result.JPG (148.92 KIO) Viewed 35575 times

no trace.jpg
No marks
no trace.jpg (75.93 Kio) Viewed 35575 times

and updated the link to the tutorial video that was pointing to .... nothing

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Re: [tutorial] Making your soap: simple, cheap and above all of excellent quality




by Christophe » 04/10/18, 11:55

Cool, the photos are in the same order?

ps: for the youtube link, it will make it raw and the video is inserted on the forum
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djo59
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Re: [tutorial] Making your soap: simple, cheap and above all of excellent quality




by djo59 » 04/10/18, 12:18

No, oops, I put it in the order of my pc, I thought suddenly be able to put them back in the original post, and after I zapped.
Original Post / 2eme post
No trace (7eme of 2eme post)
Very fine trace (2eme)
Fine trace (4eme)
Trace (3eme)
Thick trace (5eme)
Calculator (1ere)
Link that you already corrected
Result (6eme)
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Re: [tutorial] Making your soap: simple, cheap and above all of excellent quality




by president13 » 04/10/18, 12:27

djo59 wrote:No, oops, I put it in the order of my pc, I thought suddenly be able to put them back in the original post, and after I zapped.
Original Post / 2eme post
No trace (7eme of 2eme post)
Very fine trace (2eme)
Fine trace (4eme)
Trace (3eme)
Thick trace (5eme)
Calculator (1ere)
Link that you already corrected
Result (6eme)


Hello,
Thank you for the photos.
we may be trying with madam :)
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