Ya dl'eau in gas ???

Edits and changes to engines, experiences, findings and ideas.
zouzoom
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Registration: 27/08/05, 09:15




by zouzoom » 09/09/05, 17:16

:D Hello everyone,

that's more than 15 years that I drive at LPG, and I wanted to know if anyone had already experimented the pantone process on this kind of carburation.

The pollution is already very reduced with the LPG + catalytic converter do you think it would be possible to use the pantone reactor with this type of vehicle, and thus to further save consumption and pollution.

My car is a Ford Mondeo mounted original bi-carburetion, the SP95 I consume about 10l / 100km and LPG about 12l / 100km. (Note that I have an auto box, so more conso.)
The gasoline / LPG rocker is done automatically after the start (which is always on gasoline)

Gasoline is fueled by carburetor, and LPG injected at each intake pipe.

Do you think it would be possible to adapt the reactor without too much head?


Franck
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Rabbit
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by Rabbit » 09/09/05, 17:41

I also work on LPG (LPG for the Franks), For now I am
busy filling my unfortunate fleet engine, I am at 1l / 100Km
But it is not too much developed, Indeed I use depression after
the butterfly to pump water. before it does not pull enough. The problem is
that it pumps a max when the throttle is closed.Ca limit qq can
the interest of the city thing. but on the highway it is already better.

The engine does not seem to suffer too much, in fact I do not see the dif so much.
if it is not that I must have the foot lege to maintain a speed
constant (on the motorway for example). As for the
consumption it will be necessary to wait a few days to measure from one full to another.

If any one has any information for the fuel / water ratio to settle this
interests me.

I use tap water (not even scared), not pre heated
intravenous ds a hose that goes from the intake manifold to a machine
electronics (which is useless, the hose has been debranchee 6 months and
the only difference is that I went from 9 l / 100km to 12 but apart from that
no dif).

Material: Veterinary needle 1.2mm, aquarium tube, jar of jam
and a Y with 2 faucets. One for water, the other for air (limit the depression) .Budget 7 € counting jam :P

The surface feeding of the jam jar is done by a pipe with a little area to filter the outside air.

The experimental test bench is a 19 R95 Phase II.
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MobyleX
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Registration: 03/12/04, 18:37
Location: Meudon - France




by MobyleX » 09/09/05, 18:15

Do you indirectly inject water into your engine, or a Pantone?

Otherwise for the pantone on a LPG, it should even work better than a petrol because a motor running on LPG heaters more than a motor running on gasoline, so more heat in the exhaust.
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Rabbit
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Registration: 22/07/05, 23:50
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by Rabbit » 09/09/05, 23:29

Indirect injection c is more discreet .Pis so much easier to remove
to switch to tech control. :P

Already with the LPG they were quick to shoot you.
I am already repacked because I did not know where the fuse was.
Another time because the little cross on the bottle was not enough
visible.

And you see me doing a pantone with LPG? At first tech control.
They explode my head, and the box with it.
:(
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Rabbit
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by Rabbit » 10/09/05, 20:36

I just stuffed 300 km,
The addition of water seems conclusive. Consumption has decreased from 20 to 25%
Give to confirm the experience.

I revise my opinion for the interest of the thing in town.
uses the most water .Normal, the engine is ralanti most of the time.

What is interesting to observe is that when the engine is slow,
it is the moment when the max of water is injected to him. For so much this does not seem
to disturb him more than that. regular, no problem to leave.

The next step is to increase the tank because, put 1 / 2 l
under the hood all 15 min is pumping.
Then put an electromagnetic valve to be able to cut
the injection of water from the cockpit. History to check if there is a dif with or without different ciconstances (highway, odds, descents aret etc ..)

For the continuation, ben .... I will already start with that.
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Other
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Registration: 17/03/05, 02:35
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by Other » 11/09/05, 05:51

Good evening answer to Rabbit

When a reactor operated cold or with too much water we find ourselves in the same conditions as you a simple aspiration of water mist and even sometimes water, I dismounted the copper pipe after an excess of , water and there were some in the collector. This is one of the reasons that pushes me to use the water as soon as the setting is not very small, it does not have the effect panton a cold it will have, VIX injector effect.
You will see that there is an ideal level of water to inject if you put too much of it to affect the performances as not enough, but in practice
it is very weak the right dose.
The old mechanics to clean the big V8 that were dirty, driving in town, he was running the engine at 2000rpm he slowly emptied a bottle of coka filled with water in the carburetor, it came out all the black scale by the exhaust.
You will look at your candles after walking in the water you will be surprised at the cleanliness.
To adjust the flow of the water you can use a needle valve controlled from inside the car, this way you can put it in gravity, but do not forget to close it when the engine and stop without what you will drown the collector.
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Rabbit
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by Rabbit » 11/09/05, 15:16

I put the tank (jar of jam: rolleyes:) under the carburetor.
Like when I stop the engine the whole purge automatically (gravitation) C is not really done but for the winter is not
more badly.Because putting methanole in the water would serve no purpose
since the water is heating up and it will not be long before
Nothing remains of it.

I'm going to do some photos of my DIY, as you will see what
point my tests are technically rudimentary.

It's a shame that I'm not equipped for welding, I'll have
steam before injecting water into the fuel.

Do you think the solder would be at the exit of the exhaust manifold?
otherwise I will make a shell in aluminum that will surround the colector. and the water will pass between
the 2. Just need to develop the casting technique and find a
supple join that supports the heat. Silicone handle.If someone has an idea ...

To sink the aluminum is not a problem. For molding it should go
if it is not that I do not want to dismount the collector, which will force me
to change the join (not really give).

Thank you to all those who advise me for their help.

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Other
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by Other » 11/09/05, 16:14

Hello, answer to Rabbit

the bend holds on a cast iron exhaust manifold, I repaired it in this way, but the silver solder that is used for the air conditioning systems does not hold at the collector.

you can do more simple, take a small copper pipe 3mm or 4mm
roll it on the 5 exhaust pipe at 8 turns with a screw neck you tighten it around the pipe to make a good contact you pass your water just before injecting it into the little needle (which siphone I guess)
I used this way for small montages, it does not break your pipe.

My boy had a similar system he had the reservoir of water in the car and he regulated the flow with an aquarium valve from the inside the water came directly into the collector, I know that i had to send very few even not 1 / 2 liter to 100km .I can not give resutats because it never filled full his resevoir gasoline so no measure.

In the 70 years system was tried by many do-it-yourselfers
Some had success and no, it was more of a curiosity because the essence
cost $ 0,45 for a gallon or 4,45litres and 8L V6,6 cars consumed 25-30 liters per 100km.

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Rabbit
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by Rabbit » 11/09/05, 22:46

To know that soldering is at these temperatures is good news.
I think I'm going to braze a copper pipe around the pipe coming out
of the exhaust collector .Ca will do a kind of Pantone reactor, rest
more than figuring out how to settle a proportional debt to the opening of the
papilon.Because that I have a holder who controls the LPG
I can not connect before the papilon. The regulator is regulated
d after the depression before the papilon.That's why I had to put the
after infusion of water.
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