Pantone modification for Renault Laguna 2.0l petrol

[nlc]

Good evening everyone !

After a few nights of reflection, let's go, I embark on the adventure.
I will post here as I go along, so that you can follow my adventure step by step. I'll try to put photos, it's still more meaningful than a long speech.

So I passed the first 2 steps, which consisted in finding the best location for the reactor, and finding or connecting the pantonized air intake.

For the reactor, in my opinion the simplest is to put it in place of the catalytic converter. The downside is that it is about 1m from the exhaust pipes, but the advantage is that it is very easy to access when the car is on the bridge, and above all it is enough to unscrew 3 bolts to disassemble .... Anyway I would have found it difficult to put the reactor before, because there is very little space.

So I went into a mess, and I managed to find almost the same catalyst, there is just the tube coming out of the catalyst and which will plug 1m further into the silencer which is too long, but it will be easy to cut!

I can therefore decapitate the catalyst, transfer the honeycomb, and I will have all the space it takes to place the reactor. In terms of temperature, even if I'm a bit far from the exhaust pipes, I think it should still go up quite high since anyway a catalyst needs a high temperature to function. If that is not enough, I will isolate ...

For the air intake on the intake, I realize that it will be a breeze. Indeed, I have 2 air intakes on the manifold. The first is that whose opening is modified by the butterfly, itself driven by the accelerator pedal.

And the second, much smaller, is the one for idling. There is a servomotor controlled by the computer which manages this air intake, to regulate the air flow of the idle.
This means that the first air intake is completely closed at idle.

So I will make my air intake on the input intended for idling, because the hose which connects the collector to the filter is very easy to access, and its internal diameter is about 10mm. I will therefore not need to make a venturi, because it already sucks strongly.

I can even dream a little and tell myself that the pantone system will also work in slow motion !!

Now the third step is the reactor itself. I made 3 DIY stores, I found a steel tube diameter 2mm, thickness 20mm. The internal diameter is therefore 1.25mm.
On the other hand I did not find what to make the rod of the reactor. They did not have a 15mm diameter steel bar. I think this is the diameter I need, because it would make a space between the rod and the reactor of 1.25mm.

So I haven't bought the tube yet, because I have to find something to make the rod first.
In any case I think I will stay on the steel, because working with stainless steel is still not obvious.

To be continued.....

[Other]

Hello,
What you forget is that in this hole, there was a small engine with a needle valve it is it that controls the idle, so you will pick up with an accelerated slowdown.
I'm adjusting this way on my Chevrolet
but in slow motion you have a lot of depression but little heat
so little water in the reactor ..
Another thing for water doping if you take steel and do not use the vehicle every day it will end up rusting (the rod) doing it in stainless steel it does not require more work and it is welds as well as steel, even with solder
Andre

[nlc]

Hello Andrew.

For accelerated idling, I had thought about it, but if the engine takes turns because of the fact that it sucks panton air which gives a better explosion, the computer should therefore regulate this air intake controlled by the electric motor by closing it a little? In theory, he should also inject less fuel?

Finally I will see well anyway, it is by experimenting that I will move forward.



For the reactor, do you think that only the rod can be made of stainless steel?
Because if I use stainless steel, it's better to do everything in stainless steel, right? The reactor tube, the rod and even the elbows?

Well, it's true that I use the car every day anyway.

Otherwise the exhaust pipes of vehicles are steel. But is it treated against corrosion or not?

Cyril

[Other]

Hello NLC
As far as idling is concerned, I keep the motorized valve and I come in through the ERG valve inlet that I condemned, it still gives a fairly high idling speed, for a manual auto transmission it doesn't bother too much, but automatic like me this has a small drawback. In driving this results in a fairly rapid rolling gas pedal released or 50kmh in engagement (a brake and it falls on the intermediaries.
These are just small flaws that are easy to fix.
In terms of stainless steel ideally the reactor and the rod should be stainless steel the rest the connectors and the counduits can be brass, copper, what you will find in the plumbing locally.
You can put the reactor tube in steel and the rod in stainless steel, the tube has less tendency to rust than the rod (I don't know why)
Organize yourself to have the two threaded ends of the reactor that allows you to screw fittings and it's easy to disassemble.
If the reactor tube is thin, push a metal rod tightly into it before welding it into the exhaust, this prevents the weld from working and keeps the correct internal diameter.
Andre

[nlc]

You're right, I will do everything in stainless steel, it will be better. I have just sent a request for quotation for the production of parts.

I will make the reactor like this:



At the length L, I do not have much choice, it will be 40cm. Indeed, I want the reactor outlet to be just before the catalyst, and the reactor inlet to be just after the catalyst. I will open it to transfer the honeycomb and to partition it, so that the reactor heats up to the maximum.

For the height H, I will make a little bit shorter than the internal diameter of my exhaust tube, to be able to pass everything inside, and then bring out the inlet and outlet of the reactor by the 2 holes that I will have drilled in the pot tube.

The reactor / inlet / outlet tubes will therefore be cut at 45 °, and welded together.
I'm going to take a tube of 21.3 x 1.6, which gives me an inner diameter of 18.1mm. For the rod, I will take a diameter of 16 over a length of 150mm. It will therefore make a space of 1.05 between the rod and the tube, it seems to me not bad!

[Christophe]

I moved, renamed and post-it this topic

[Other]

Bonsoir
reply to Nlc
With two elbows weld it is no longer a question of removing the rod or inspecting or replacing it, often after a certain use it starts to vibrate and it takes play, something else the elbows at
square like that it gives restriction (I know something about it since I am arranger like that but by obilgation and
missing space. and I'm not too proud of it
If you have the possibility made a straight reactor with a threaded pipe at both ends, easy for cleaning or any other modification, the idea of ​​putting it in the honeycomb of the catalyst and without doubt a good solution (I saw it turn red) provided the reactor does not cool the whole mess. because a well-functioning reactor eats all the heat around it.
To be operational, the catalyst also needs heat.
Andre

[nlc]

Hello Andrew.

Yes I suspect that the right angles is not great, but hey, it's a first try!
It is true that it will not be removable, but for a 1st try it will be fine. If after a while it takes play, I will do the editing more cleanly. Anyway, later I would try to put the reactor much closer to the engine, just behind the lambda probe, to have even more heat. The concern is that at this place, there is very little room to tinker ...

And for the catalyst, even if it is no longer operational, I don't care, that's why I recovered one for scrapping, so as not to damage mine!

See you soon

[ange]

Hello,
If you allow, I advise, to keep the honeycomb of catalyst and to make a hole in the nest to accommodate the reactor.
Ideal in my humble opinion is that the reactor is surrounded by a 2-me tube of 2-3mm more.
Why?
1. Quite simply following numerous experiments we realized that in town there is not enough heat for it to work (t <300 ° C !!!)
2. The heat from the catalyst will heat the reactor and everything will be OK!

Attention to the way of fixing the rector in the catalyst it must not move or it will make a terrible noise.

Remember to isolate the exhaust part before the reactor with rock wool or glass, for example. and also the part of the pantone copper tube outlet.

Once it works the ideal is to use the lambda probe chifteur to have real consumption savings (LC-1 at innovate see on ebay)
cordially

[nlc]

Yes good idea, I will try to dig the honeycomb right through the catalyst, to then insert my reactor. It will save me from scalping the catalyst to resolder it afterwards.

However, does anyone know where I can get stainless steel tubes and rounds? I live in Nantes
I'm looking for tube of 21.3 x 1.6 and round of 16.

I do have a wholesaler who can sell me near my home, but I have to take 6m of tube and 3m of round !!

Tomorrow I will try to call weber metaux in Paris to see if they are mail order.