vegetable oil exchanger clogged

crude vegetable oil, diester, bio-ethanol or other biofuels, or fuel of vegetable origin ...
Other
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vegetable oil exchanger clogged




by Other » 17/08/13, 21:13

Hello
Yesterday breakdown on the road, it's been more than 120 km that I walk with frying oil, apart from the filter changes, cleaning of the strainer tank and oil line no problem.
the exchanger is a small Ford automatic transmission oil radiator placed in the LDR circuit directly on the hose that goes to the radiator, good efficient efficiency, even too hot 70c to 80c for oil.
for some time I noticed a drop in temperature at the exchanger outlet and a lack of engine power.
Normally the cause is a fuel filter which begins to clog. After changing the two filters, no change
by disconnecting the return from the injection pump, very little flow, even none in engine speed.
To finally realize that it is the exchanger that is clogged.
My question which product is effective for cleaning the aluminum heat exchanger?
I circulated with an acetone pump, then I put oil on the brake overnight and rinse the exchanger with auto gasoline and finally hot diesel, it improved but but it there is still some restriction.

In my system at each purge I pass cold diesel in the exchanger and hot diesel in the fuel filters which considerably increases their duration.
what I plan to do is that periodically reverse the exchanger conduits, to make reverse circulation.

Those who have long lived in frying oil must have had similar problems? I am a method or cleaning product taker to dissolve these hardened oils (a few chocolate brown pieces were rinsed out.)

Andre
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by 1360 » 17/08/13, 21:22

High pressure cleaner (100 bar and more) and very hot water (100 ° C and more ...)

Nothing can resist it ...

A+
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by Rabbit » 17/08/13, 23:04

I would say caustic soda. This is what I use to clean
my fryer and kitchen filters. In max 1 hc is like new.
Remember to have white vinegar to neutralize splashes
on the skin.
In your case I will run soda in the exchanger during a
night.

But check before compatibility with aluminum.

I don't think soda attacks aluminum but more educated than me
will confirm it to you.
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by delnoram » 18/08/13, 11:22

Rabbit wrote:
But check before compatibility with aluminum.

I don't think soda attacks aluminum but more educated than me
will confirm it to you.


Avoid caustic soda + Alu = release of hydrogen and the reaction can be quite violent if it is pure soda.
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by Other » 18/08/13, 16:06

Hello

the exchanger is not removable it is necessary that I find a solution of liquid product compatible with the injection pump (no water)
because rinsing can only be done with fuel or oil
this is one of the reasons that i used lockeed oil and also acetone
the brake oil gave average results, maybe repeat the operation to let the liquid work longer.
I still have to try Gonk engine degreaser or carburetor, injector, oven cleaning products? (I was thinking of a liquid paint stripper but I am hesitant, the complete rinsing always poses a problem, the in-line injection pump is capable of taking it but there are limits.)
Currently it works, but compare to a new radiator there is a restriction.
the good solution would be to change the exchanger, but as I build them to weld in an aluminum box it is a fairly demanding job.

Andre
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by Flytox » 19/08/13, 22:42

You can try a solution of white vinegar with cooking salt and baking soda (food).
The proportions are not very important say for 1 liter of water, a small glass of vinegar, a tablespoon of salt, a small spoon of bicarbonate.
The bicarbonate can be put in several times (the mixture becomes effervescent).
As this produces a little hydrochloric acid, rinse thoroughly with water afterwards.

This mixture of grandmother comes to the end of full of more or less fatty filth. :P
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by Other » 20/08/13, 05:12

Hello
Flytox wrote:You can try a solution of white vinegar with cooking salt and baking soda (food).
The proportions are not very important say for 1 liter of water, a small glass of vinegar, a tablespoon of salt, a small spoon of bicarbonate.
The bicarbonate can be put in several times (the mixture becomes effervescent).
As this produces a little hydrochloric acid, rinse thoroughly with water afterwards.

This mixture of grandmother comes to the end of full of more or less fatty filth. :P


Rinsing with water is a little scary, because it goes directly to the fuel filter, then injection pump, I would rather a product that I can rinse, with diesel, petrol or lacquer paint solvent seems to me more effective than l 'acetone.
today tested paint stripper not very effective test as well as stove oven cleaner (too aggressive with aluminum) the brake oil was better, and even I wonder if the remaining brake oil that has going through the injectors has not cleaned improves the injectors, it seems to me that the engine runs softer at idle.
It remains for me to test the product ACdelco 1 - 992955 sold as a penetrating liquid (but very effective for cleaning carburetors.
To see the effectiveness of the products tested, when rinsing with a pump I circulate hot diesel fuel in a loop with a return to a glass jar in order to see the quantity of particles that come out.
From what I understood, no need to look for a product that dissolves these solidified fats, the product must take off the particles from the exchanger. and you have to reverse the pumping direction several times.

Andre
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by Alain G » 20/08/13, 16:03

Hi Andrew!


I would try a thinner lacquer mixed with an anti friction to prevent the injection pump from being damaged.

Alcohol can also make and less harmful to plastics if there is any in the conduits or the pump.

See you!
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by Macro » 26/08/13, 10:07

I once plugged a water-oil exchanger "a modine" used to normally cool the engine oil between the block and the filter that I had modified to heat the HV before the filter ... it is a model in steel passed with caustic soda, without effect, on the other hand, I boiled it for 30 minutes in a pressure cooker and once very hot I sent it a big burst of compressed air ... a nice pile came out of filth ... otherwise circulation of warm white spirit (kerosene) (30 °) it softens the sticky deposits of dried oil well ... in addition even if there is white spirit in it ... the Mercedes will not flinch ..After the operation, install a prefilter to collect any crap that might come off later .. But you should be quiet ...
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by Other » 26/08/13, 16:17

Hello
Macro wrote:After the operation install a prefilter to harvest any crap that would come off afterwards ... But you should be quiet ...


Thank you all for the information.
I recirculated them again with brake oil and hot gunk 60c produced to clean the engines, it is a good improvement.
I'm going to install a coarse wire mesh prefilter, I had removed the original small Mercedes prefilter, which works with cold oil was causing too much restriction.
The circuit is 4-way valve oil tank-diesel tank then directly in the low pressure mechanical pump then in the exchanger, then filters 10 microns, then 5 microns. With the reheating after each purge with hot diesel 70c the filters remain more permeable for a long time.
the problem of partial colamtage of the heat exchanger has been around for a long time but it was accentuated when I arrived on the bottom of the vegetable oil tank (not deceived the diesel tanks end up having a good dose of deposit too) At each year I blow the oil supply lines, diesel
I would say that for every 1500 liters of oil consumed, the compressed air passes through the fuel lines.

Andre
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