Do yourself a drilling ram how?

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Forhorse
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Do yourself a drilling ram how?




by Forhorse » 08/03/10, 07:53

Hello everybody

Those who know my subject https://www.econologie.com/forums/mon-ecurie ... t8678.html know that to water my horses I recover rainwater.
But now, it turns out that it is not enough. Either I live in a region that is not rainy enough, or my horses drink too much.
My tank of 1000l only allows me 10 days without rain, which happens relatively often and even during the rainy periods the filling of the tank + the consomation makes that I could never fill any more than my 1m3 except at rare exceptions (this winter my tanker has never run over)
When it is empty I have to bring water with another tank on my 4x4: Long, not practical and not economical.

I began to dig one then to be able to pump into the tablecloth what the sky does not want to give me. It's long and tedious.
I spoke to a friend who told me about a drilling technique that consists of driving steel tubes to the ground.
After a search on the net I saw that it was a relatively common method. According to what I read, you can easily get down to 6m or more.
I can see how to proceed but these searches have not illuminated all the points.

If people who have already implemented this method could report their experience here it would be nice.
I'm wondering how to create the water pocket at the bottom of the forest. And also to what type of soil this method can apply. Here we have a relatively thick layer of clay. According to my information the water is below, by cons I do not know what is the nature of the soil under the clay. It is either sand or limestone.
If it's sand I know that the method is valid, but if I come across limestone?
I will try to find out about the exact geology of the area.

Thank you in advance.
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by coucou789456 » 08/03/10, 08:13

Hello

in general, when you reach the tablecloth, there is a symbolic pocket in relation to a clay soil. since there is water it is circulating, so the soil is permeable at this location.

I used another technique but I had at my disposal tap water. I already had a and 4 m to evacuate water from the land and channels of the house. but the water that I could extract was unsuitable for any other use being collected by runoff in the vicinity by all the vineyards, and there are quite a few, and I do not tell you the chemical treatments that it receives throughout the year. .

So I pushed into my well at 4 m, a black pvc tube (reinforced for pressurized water because more resistant) and planted this pipe in the clay beyond the first layer.

using a pipe connected to the mains water network, I introduced it into the pipe pcv to the bottom. the available pressure disintegrated the clay that went naturally up the pvc tube. when the pvc pipe was too deep, I glued an extension of 2 m, and then I continued ...

in all it took us 1 day and 1 / 2 to get to 13 m. there we arrived at the part where the water was, because it went up sand and little pebbles and much less clay. Obviously, it would have been necessary to make on the side of the pipe at the bottom of the holes so that the water is less difficult to enter the pipe but I had forgotten it.

the galley because it was necessary to extract the 13 m of pipe which was all glued, and arrived almost at the end, a part is broken and fell back directly in the hole, which makes that I lost the drilling but that c is another story.

once arrived at the water table, the water usually rises a few meters into the pipe. so you do not often need a special deep-water pump. but nothing prevents you from putting a grill pump, more economical because works with the arms and not electricity.

jeff
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by coucou789456 » 08/03/10, 08:24

re

to have water with a minimum of pressure and if you do not have tap water at your disposal, you have to do like the pros, around the place where you dig, build a kind of basin where the water coming up from the pipe is evacuated but not lost. and using a pump equipped with a strainer and a filter, reinject water into the small pipe inserted into the larger pvc pipe. in this way with 200 or 300 liters of water you will have to arrive at your desired depth.

I had drilled with a pipe 50 mm diameter, which is more than enough.

despite everything remains a big unknown, it is the nature of the soil in depth. if there are large pebbles, difficult to continue or so do like me, I used for friable pebbles, reinforcing bars that are 6 m long and arc welded, then flatten the end to transform this part as a "kind of drill". all attached to an electric drill, that was more than enough to break up the pebbles, not flint of course.

jeff

ps: or at the end weld arc 2 larger pieces of reinforcing bar and on both sides of the rod.
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by coucou789456 » 08/03/10, 08:32

again

with my method, the clay where the pipe goes down evacuates from the top and leaves room for the pipe. even better if you have the opportunity to use a karcher with extenders to unclog the pipes ... there the hole is pierced as in melted butter and the pipe will go down to your 10 easy m in less than one day and without outside help, and the cost of drilling will be minimum !!!! the use of a ferret is also useful if there is no electricity available, since a ferret is already used to unclog pipes, the ideal tool.

in the other method, the one you mention, the pipe must make its hole by spreading the clay, and the more it sinks, the harder it is ... and no question of falling on a big stone, even crumbly for there I do not tell you your galley to get your tube scrap.

otherwise, you have to build a sort of top tripod of 2 or 3 m, with a pulley at the top. the mass used to tap the pipe is held by a rope, an end rod is there to guide the mass when it falls on the pipe. but since there will be no question of reassembling the pipe once pressed, it must already be ready for its arrival at the bottom of the borehole, ie rounded tip, it is the minimum and holes on the side for allow water to enter.

----------------------------

if you fall on sand, do not worry the water will be there too. there is little chance that there is rock just below the clay because the clay is often the result of old alluvial deposits on a river bed so either sandy or gravelly, or 2.


jeff
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by Forhorse » 08/03/10, 09:00

Thank you for your testimony. Your drilling technique seems interesting to me. I could possibly think without seeing how to proceed concretely, you gave me the solution.
For the moment I will still go on a solution of the steel tube for two reasons:
- I have very little water on site
- This is the one that seems to be the most practiced in the region (good after the problem what I can never talk directly to the people who did it, it is still the cousin of the father of a colleague of the neighbor's wife ... : Lol: )

The stroke of the tripod with the mass is what I could see on the net about this technique. From where the title this subject (bélier)

Like where I work we are lucky to have machine tools and skilled machiners, I can easily have a steel tip welded to the end of the tube to facilitate the sink (that's what I had planned )
I saw also that it was necessary to pierce the tube on about 1m to 1.50m to make the winder.
The colleague who spoke to me about this technique can also lend me an independent welding group, to make the connection between each tube.
I still have to see the price of the tube.

On the other hand I come back from the materials merchant, for a quote about concrete well rings, in order to compare the cost between "classic" well dug by hand (with all the effort that requires) and the solution of drilling.
I would have for 500 € busage.
So in my opinion the calculation is done quickly, if it is viable by me, the solution of the drill is less expensive.

I have in my knowledge a geometer who operates in the corner. I hope he will have information at the local geology to find out exactly where he will have access to this kind of information
(Otherwise you have to buy special IGN cards, 35 € and I'm not even sure they contain the info I'm looking for, obviously it's just the nature of the superficial layer that these cards indicate)
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Re: Do yourself a drilling "with a ram", how




by oiseautempete » 08/03/10, 09:00

Forhorse wrote:If it's sand I know that the method is valid, but if I come across limestone?
I will try to find out about the exact geology of the area.



In the Vosges, unless you are low in altitude (pre-Vosges hills), there is no limestone, but most often granite and sandstone, in places Alsatian side of the basalt.
To create a pocket (actually a pocket of large gravel and pebbles cleared of fine particles) must be pumped continuously for quite a long time until there is almost no sand that goes back ... But the tablecloths are generally quite small, sometimes just a small lens between the clay and the rock of the base, more rarely than clay and large blocks of rock (former glacial lake filled)
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by Forhorse » 08/03/10, 09:13

Uh actually I'm not in the vosges : Cheesy:
I live in Seine-et-marne, in Brie ... vosges is my region of origin.
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by coucou789456 » 08/03/10, 09:18

re

drilling is for Brie or the Vosges?

what can be done, at least for 3 or 4 first meters, is to use scrap pipes to screw between them, but not closed at the end, once pushed to the maximum, extract them from the ground then remove the contained carrot. with this method, it will be easier to drive the first meters and especially to see the nature of the ground in shallow depth, certainly, but better than on a map.

otherwise, if you use from the start the pipe closed by the future strainer, excuse my expression but you will "shit" from the first meter! because if the clay is dry, I don't know if you will be able to drill like a ram, and if it is wet clay, it makes a little rubbery consistency.

jeff
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by Forhorse » 08/03/10, 09:32

The drilling is for seine-et-marne.

It is wet clay, so the stroke of the carrot I do not believe. Once depressed the tube will be impossible to remove unless used in gear type digger, and that I have none.
(I swear that the clay here is sticking hard!)
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by coucou789456 » 08/03/10, 09:46

re

backhoe, no need, just do a hoist with 2 pulley at each end, it will increase your effort.

at a friend's house not far from Perpignan, a hole was drilled through the tube and, using a piece of concrete reinforcing steel, the pipe was turned on itself, easier to extract if it was possible to rotate it. in the sense of not screw otherwise ... !!!

jeff
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