My first pantone, need help!

Water injection in thermal engines and the famous "pantone engine". General informations. Press clippings and videos. Understanding and scientific explanations on the injection of water into engines: ideas for assemblies, studies, physico-chemical analyzes.
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the joint
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My first pantone, need help!




by the joint » 07/03/07, 22:11

Hello everyone, it's been several days since I read and reread these pages on the functioning of the pantone principle and I got started. I am still in the making of the reactor and I have a few questions. The model that I realize aims to equip a mower or a tiller. I'm swinging a few photos so you can see the face.

https://www.econologie.info/share/partag ... ntone1.jpg

https://www.econologie.info/share/partag ... ntone5.jpg

My reactor is about 20cm long. On the other hand, the solid steel rod which is in the center of the reactor, is it normal that it wanders a little? I put 3 "nipples" so that it is well centered in the tube but at each end there is a little play before the reducers so it moves a little when the reactor is turned over. Nothing serious ?

Otherwise I made my holes for the entry and exit of exhaust gases. For the entrance I made a hole of 1 cm in diameter, is it correct? and for the outlet 0,7 cm in diameter. I made the outlet smaller in the idea of ​​increasing the pressure and the time that the exhaust gases will remain in the reactor (in order to increase the heat). Is this bullshit? (see following photo for the diameter of the holes) Right hole 1 cm in diameter = gas inlet / Left hole 0,7 cm in diameter = gas outlet

https://www.econologie.info/share/partag ... antone.jpg

PS: how do we post direct photos on the forum without going through the links?
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Other
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by Other » 07/03/07, 23:11

Hello
Don't worry about the heat a mower heats the reactor more than a 3,8 liter engine at 100kmh.
Too small your holes inlet is outlet exhaust
16mm normally corresponds to a 1/2 pipe
Weld a 1/2 nipple and pierce through it once welded.
the restriction must be at least the outer tube reactor the main restriction is the annular space around the reactor where the exhaust gases circulate the hottest point is in the elbow inlet exhaust reactor ..
For the rod it must be welded or screwed a small rod of e3 or 4 mm to prevent the motor as the rod as an oiston that plugs the outlet hole of the reactor it will lean against the plug at the bottom.
For the rest you are well started, lack the details bubblers or carburetor.

Andre
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by the joint » 07/03/07, 23:59

Hi André, thank you for your answers. For the heat it's ok I don't have to worry. On the other hand, I did not understand everything regarding the inlet and outlet holes for the exhaust gases. You tell me "16mm normally this corresponds to a 1/2 pipe" what does that mean? that the holes must be 16 mm? and 1/2 pipe what is the unit (mm, cm ....)? I'm sorry but these few notions still escape me! : Cry: : Cry: I look forward to your answers and thank you. Otherwise I think of using a bubbler it seems simpler to me.
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by Other » 08/03/07, 04:17

Hello
the join wrote:Hi André, thank you for your answers. For the heat it's ok I don't have to worry. On the other hand, I did not understand everything regarding the inlet and outlet holes for the exhaust gases. You tell me "16mm normally this corresponds to a 1/2 pipe" what does that mean? that the holes must be 16 mm? and 1/2 pipe what is the unit (mm, cm ....)? I'm sorry but these few notions still escape me! : Cry: : Cry: I look forward to your answers and thank you. Otherwise I think of using a bubbler it seems simpler to me.


On a photo we see two small nipples (I suppose you are going to weld them on the duct to make the exhaust inlet and outlet, once welded you pierce the internal diameter normally 15 to 1 6mm depending on the thickness of the nipple.
Too much reduction on the exhaust and the admission this loses too much exhaustion on the mower (although you will get lost on the total power because of the restriction admissions.
if you want to make simple put a small carburetor of reduced plane model at the entry of the reactor you will be able easily to make run the mower with fuel oil or diesel,
with a bubbler the water will not bring you much except a curiosity and you will not be able to use any fuel other than fresh gasoline and the water will not fill the bubbler that's all , with a small reduced model carburetor you can pass alcohol and if you want water you will make a mixture of water alcohol starts at 20% water and measures the water, the water does not make a big gain consumption on such assembly, but for depollution yes ..
Image

Image

Image

Photos Gallery - PicTiger
Andre
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by PITMIX » 08/03/07, 07:05

Hello
The tubes you used are 1/2 "(inch) it's 15-21mm heating tube. The threaded brass fittings will be 15-21 and the corresponding copper will be 14mm.
The rod that must be put inside is 14mm in diameter.
Do your editing exactly as on the Quant'homme.com site at first so that you will go faster to understand the first editing.
Thereafter you will make modifications to improve the thing in order to better vaporize the water.
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by I Citro » 08/03/07, 09:22

Well the pictures André !!
The engine is to test the power ??? or is it an "André" generator?

However I did not understand how you feed the reactor, I can see the can, but it does not seem to be bubbled by the exhaust. Is the engine vacuum alone sufficient to draw water?

I too am going to try to switch to practice on my car, a 2.2L petrol + LPG safrane and I am looking for or finding model building carbs but I am not sure which model is needed?
Furthermore, I hesitate to put the reactor (s) in the catalyst (under the car, under the gear lever) or in the vertical intermediate tube between the exhaust manifold and the catalyst (closer to the engine, less space, tube reinforced double wall with flow separator).
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by the joint » 08/03/07, 10:17

Thank you everyone for your answers. Indeed I count welded the 2 nipples that you saw to make my entry and my exit of exhaust. So actually it has to be big enough, I'll take care of that. For the reduced model carburetor it seems interesting, but I do not have any so I will start with a bubbler and if it works correctly I switch to carburetor!
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by PITMIX » 08/03/07, 20:41

Hi Citro
André made a 100% Pantone with a reduced model carburetor.
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by the joint » 08/03/07, 22:50

Hi, well the reactor is almost at the assembly point. I still have copper to bend and weld and make the bubbler. By the way, what do you use to make the bubbler? The problem is that we are limited by the size as it must come in through the cap! To fix the different parts of the reactor which are screwed I thought to use hemp, what do you think?

Otherwise the carburetor in a 100% pantone installation replaces the bubbler? If yes, how do you get steam if the fuel is no longer heated? Thank you
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by PITMIX » 08/03/07, 23:31

The gasoline already vaporizes at room temperature.
Try to put a match above a can of gasoline you will see (no I don't kidding don't do it : Mrgreen: )
So once it goes through the carburetor it feels like a kind of mist. André uses a reduced model carburetor so that it vaporizes even more finely than a normal carburetor.
If you want to give it a try. Operate the mower Original with the fuel unscrewed. Engine running dislodges the fuel from the intake pipe with a sharp blow, you will see gasoline vapor.
If you use a fuel for gasoline don't forget to pass water too, but separately.
With a heated water bubbler or a reduced model carburetor with water all connected with a Y-shaped connector.
I never tried this but that's how it should be done.
For the 100% Pantone I stopped at the basic assembly of the Quant'homme site. With the water / petrol bubbler and exhaust recycling.
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