Advice heating Pros: valid or not?

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dedeleco
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by dedeleco » 28/09/10, 00:41

It seems reasonable.
Slightly waterproof veiled joinery can be made fairly waterproof with flexible beads glued to the right places without changing them, but to be checked regularly each year. !
He is right with the shutter boxes with, if possible, flexible rubber in addition to reduce the passage of cold air along the shutter towards the inside of the box.
Closing the hidden holes in the attic and crawling by lifting the tiles is essential !!
he did feel a kind of air flow in the entrance, according to him since the staircase overlooks the entrance it could be a call of warm air from the first.

Since it's not cold yet, you must have an air leak or serious thermal bridge to the first one that escaped you, unless the veiled entrance door is with a huge slot to be sealed with rubber first .

Put an insert or stove with hot air circulator towards the first and rooms, even mass stove (more than a ton!) Or mixed stove, plates, pellets, logs or boiler, if autonomy is important for you, burning with everything.
One more brand, of high quality guntamatic in the € 20000 burning of everything in addition to the others at € 13000:
http://www.reka-france.fr/index.php?opt ... &Itemid=60
http://www.reka-france.fr/index.php?opt ... &Itemid=60
http://www.guntamatic.fr/
http://www.gutzwiller.fr/polycombustible.html
http://www.hsfrance.com/chaudiere-bois- ... -heat.html
http://www.aile.asso.fr/valorisation-de ... nique-reka
See also the complete list:
Vhttp: //www.aile.asso.fr/valorisation-d ... boilers
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Obamot
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by Obamot » 28/09/10, 02:05

dodo wrote:To say that the other day I had someone tell me that he spent more on work than the value of the house, I think I am beginning to understand it. : Mrgreen:

You have to start at the beginning, is there not some work that you could do by yourself?

+1 for inventory of "The general condition in detail" before starting the work.

dedeleco wrote:Before you must have detected and removed all your hidden leaks, otherwise this expenditure of € 30000 will be useless, always with a colander house, except to enrich the con artist, who makes fun completely if his work is useless !!


IT'S ALL THERE AND YOU HAVE TO START THERE : Mrgreen:

... we are still waiting for the "general condition", it would not be bad to illustrate it.

There I really feel that we are putting the plow before the horse!

dodo wrote:I thought about it but I have to change on water radiators and therefore to take off my convectors and saw that it is necessary to provide another type of additional heating.

If it is a question of changing for another type of heating, why to take off convectors, as soon as they are already installed and it works? Don't understand ... It's a bit irrational.

dodo wrote:nobody told me about moving the windows outside, I was just told that the insulation had to be based either on the window frames or on the sashes of the shutters .

Uh, but the "rails" are not made of wood ... so cold bridge if they are mixed with the insulation and worse if they are not airtight (air passing through the screws, the interstices of the slides ( = reduced insulation to zero) and so on and the best ....)
In principle, in an insulation, no air flow should pass.

If there are already double glazing, you must see the condition of the carpentry in the rabbet ...>, for that you should not confuse the two types:

Image

Image

... and specify in what materials they are. If there is air flowing through it? If they can be dismantled, in which case they can be loosened and put a blow of the "external silicone" gasket with a cartridge gun (all the circumference and in one piece!).

Are there any joints between the double glazed windows (ie door / s) and the framing posts? What kind (hollow body, rubber strip) are they absolutely continuous all around and in one piece, or is there air passing in certain places? In the corners? Do they form a good "body" with the carpentry once the doors and windows are closed?

And for all the works and investments: what total budget is there?

dodo wrote:here I just had a diagnosis of a company which is not really independent since it sells energy from where my reluctance on this oral diagnosis.
I was very surprised with this free dignostic.

finally I gave him my approximate budget, and he advised me to target priorities taking into account the return on investment and the comfort provided.


carpentry:

he advised me to change that certain menuisseries or the wood has worked a little and is no longer waterproof (French doors and entry door which is veiled).

Since the windows are already double glazed the change of this one will not bring a significant comfort compared to the investment. [?]

He advises me toisolate my stolen boxes


attic:

already insulated attic with 3 * 5cm, it advises me to fill where there are holes and rather invest in a wood stove where the economy will be more substantial and offset insulation of the attic in a few years.

heater :

provide a stove and possibly a battery heater


he felt good some kind of draft in the entrance, according to him, seeing that the cage of the hutch overlooks the entrance it could be a warm air call from the first.


dodo wrote:this winter I'm going to chase the draft [...]

if necessary window which we see crack in the wood.


Ouch: as usual in this kind of thread, we see after a few pages that the problem goes in all directions. If it is absolutely correct that'we must "target the priorities", you must start by IMPERATIVELY AND URGENTLY following Dedelco's advice: either to make a "general state", and list of points to review ... and we'll talk about it again.

Why not publish a complete collection of photos of the details, then overall views (roof / attic insulation, facade, facade-roof joint, possible basement / cellar, door + window boxes, door condition + window, state of the rebates, heating configuration ... possible cold bridges and inventory of any "airways"). Do you need an outside expert to do this?

And specify in what and how the floors are made, are there false ceilings, etc ...

Because here we really find it difficult to give any opinion carefully detailed ...
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dodo
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by dodo » 28/09/10, 21:11

dedeleco -> indeed at the first I dismantled a hatch which gives on a part of lost roof.
on the partition there is 10 cm of lv but at the level of the hatch there was a piece of polystirene of 1 to 2 cm.

on the door and on the windows I had already put foam seals.

I will put on this hatch a new insulation of 10 cm and found an insulation that I can put in my shutter boxes by leaving just a hole for the vmc at the level of the box.

Obamot> what do you not hear general state.
for photos it will not be easy to take photos of all and especially that we will not see much.

concerning joinery I do not see joints between the window and the double glazing, there is on the other hand a closing joint.
concerning our budget I think in the order of 15 euros spread over 000 years
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dedeleco
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by dedeleco » 28/09/10, 22:48

Look for faults, like air leaks detected in extreme cold with your hands or thermometers, to be sure of the joints (around the hatch), look for thermal bridges (cold spots, sometimes with condensation, around windows and edges of ceilings), and hidden insulation faults inaccessible under the tiles, visible only on the edges of the pitched roof by lifting the tiles, which can be important, because invisible according to the care by the construction workers. !!

Otherwise the most economical is the free wood recovered (but with manual handling) and burned in an insert, a stove (with hot air circulator) or a central boiler, then the logs and commercial chips, then the pellets !!
For me, the quantity recoverable around my home is much higher than what I need. I don't know about you.
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by dodo » 28/09/10, 23:16

the hatch is just placed I will put it back in place as soon as I have isolated it.

I will look on the side of the boxes because they are incorporated aerator suddenly the part under the box is not isolated and also see the side of the location of the chain.

for wood recover for free I do not know too much I never paid attention but it is necessary to envisage a big investment.
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by Obamot » 29/09/10, 02:30

dodo wrote:
Obamot> what do you not hear general state.
for photos it will not be easy to take photos of all and especially that we will not see much.

It depends ... If we reread, I say that we must do "details". We can't understand each other, that's why I suggested taking pictures. Never mind.

dodo wrote:concerning joinery I do not see joints between the window and the double glazing, there is on the other hand a closing joint.
what kind? Maybe it's an effort to take photos, but imagine without a photo! For us it is almost impossible to be sure to give you sound advice. We speak in a vacuum. Because it's always the same when someone gives explanations, the others are forced to interpret (ie my example with the two types of rebates).

dodo wrote:concerning our budget I think in the order of 15 euros spread over 000 years
Without getting involved, it's not much. Especially if you put a stove in the lot. In the absence of photos, I would then tend to think like a storm bird (for once ...) keep your convectors and invest everything in insulation (and that, if you don't have the possibility of using Recycling ...).

We will therefore respond as we can. Good luck and good luck in your business.
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by dodo » 29/09/10, 12:39

I will see if I can take pictures where we can identify a problem.

I'm already going to start looking for my air leaks as recommended by dedeleco, because here I have my wmc turned off I know it's not good : Mrgreen: and I have the impression that it is better in the water rooms than in the rooms where the wmc is done via the box.

http://oee.nrcan.gc.ca/residentiel/personnel/reduction-fuites-air.cfm?attr=4
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dedeleco
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by dedeleco » 29/09/10, 17:55

VMC can be a real cowardice, see its flow, its speeds, etc.
See my loss calculation in official standards on another forum of econology !!
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by dodo » 06/10/10, 20:50

I have just been offered blown glass wool insulation in the crawling part by deconstructing just 2 rows of tiles at 40 euros per m2
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dedeleco
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by dedeleco » 07/10/10, 00:28

Before, it is necessary to test if it is necessary, by lifting a few tiles yourself and see if there are real holes !!
See also if there are no cracked tiles wetting the current glass wool.
Raising tiles yourself is usually easy.
If the blown glass wool reaches the tiles, it may get wet by condensation on the cold tiles if the vapor barrier has moved and if there are holes allowing inside warm air to pass through. will condense on the cold !!
It is good to spot problems before taking action.
Some professionals do not care much about the consistency of their work.
They can even leave more felony tiles than before.
Check carefully also that spare tiles for your roof still exist at merchants, because many tiles from over 10 years ago are no longer made !!
If they break or crack a few tiles, you risk discovering this horror: no more spare tiles and a whole roof to be redone !!
€ 20000 to pay for a completely new, correct roof.
At home and my neighbors we have this problem: impossibility of replacement tiles !!
The old manufacturers of tiles were bought, their number was divided by 10 and the ranges of tiles did the same !!

I had the same problem with a parquet to partially redo after water damage, estimate to redo the identical and craftsman starting the work, to discover that the same identical parquet did not exist, impossible to find, and that the only solution by special hand manufacturing of a carpenter cost 20 times more per m2 than on his estimate !!!
Result, twisted parquet after drying preserved !!
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