My vegetable garden lazy north of Toulouse

Agriculture and soil. Pollution control, soil remediation, humus and new agricultural techniques.
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Did67
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Re: My vegetable garden in the north of Toulouse




by Did67 » 30/04/17, 13:59

Yes that's it.

Essentially because we do not put hay very often. And so we will not wait.

You will be surprised: the kitchen waste is basically ... water! So, when you put it on a good day, the next day most of the peelings have become chips, dehydrated, unrecognizable on the hay ... Of course, there are exceptions: orange peel, etc. .. But they also dry up and do not attract flies anymore ...

If the aesthetic gene, it is obviously possible to keep hay at hand and cover with a light coat to mask (which should also be done when composting to achieve a good C / N ratio).

The big difference is that we maintain the life of the soil with energy inputs (so-called “fresh” biomass = not already decomposed) wherever we cultivate. And not just on a pile at the back of the garden where we don't grow crops.
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Re: My vegetable garden in the north of Toulouse




by Did67 » 30/04/17, 14:21

Ahmed wrote:@ Colinot: In the strict sense it would not be exactly BRF, but personally I consider that a mixture of woody and herbaceous (leaf) balances the intake between, respectively, fungi and worms. So I do not deprive myself of this possibility which comes in addition to the branches crushed in the autumn and in which are stored a maximum of nutrients; I consider that in spring the distribution of these substances is simply different ...



Yes, as a first approximation, it is comparable. Certainly, the "green matter" (young shoots / leaves) will be more accessible and will decompose faster. This late grinding therefore favors bacteria a little to the detriment of fungi I think.

But again, on earth there is the "ideally perfect". Awesome. And then there is our real everyday life, with its compromises! Which also works well ...
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Re: My vegetable garden in the north of Toulouse




by lily 31 » 19/05/17, 23:40

As I go round my hay blanket I have a lot of creeping potentials that grow through hay how to come to the end of this adventitious:
a => by tearing it out to weaken it ??
b => by lifting the hay to cover it again and deprive it of light ??
The question I ask myself
What to plant as trees or bushes to have wood in the fall to do my BRF?
1 => I was thinking of making weeping willow cuttings next to the stream which borders my land (to retain the banks which tend to collapse with nutria !!)
2 => make a hedge with hazelnuts
Thank you for giving me some ideas :)
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Re: My vegetable garden in the north of Toulouse




by Ahmed » 20/05/17, 00:10

Potato, as its Latin root indicates, is a very robust plant because of its two main characteristics: a pivot root deeply implanted in the soil and capable of storing a lot of energy; The ability to issue stolons to rapidly colonize a maximum surface area. To fight, the two techniques that you have mentioned are valid and, if implemented with diligence, these plants should indicate their progressive weakening by smaller leaves during recurrences.

As for the BRF, it is better to prefer hardwoods to soft woods such as willow or poplars; Hazel is a good idea, but it is best to mix as many species as possible. Oak and ash are suitable as well as hedge sizes, except conifers (except in small doses).
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Re: My vegetable garden in the north of Toulouse




by eclectron » 20/05/17, 08:15

Ahmed wrote:Potato is a very robust plant because of its two main characteristics: a pivot root deeply implanted in the soil and capable of storing a lot of energy; The ability to issue stolons to rapidly colonize a maximum surface area. To fight, the two techniques that you have mentioned are valid and, if implemented with diligence, these plants should indicate their progressive weakening by smaller leaves during recurrences.

Not found better than the elbow oil actually: spade fork to plumb the root, leverage to take off the root ball (but not get it out of the ground!) Then pull on the root, with a little practice and luck , One has everything without much effort but it is not a lazy method. : roll:

Ahmed wrote:As for the BRF, it is better to prefer hardwoods to soft woods such as willow or poplars; Hazel is a good idea, but it is best to mix as many species as possible. Oak and ash are suitable as well as hedge sizes, except conifers (except in small doses).

There are advantages to using softwoods such as willow and poplar, they grow fast, resist regular sizes (willow tadpole, which contains them at a low height) and easily pass through a Electric amateur grinder.
Harsher species sometimes pose problems for the amateur shredder (peace to their souls ...)
The disadvantage that you see, is probably the short life of the BRF?
That I find largely offset by rapid growth and easy grinding.
Another disadvantage of the willow if it is too close to crops is that it pumps water from the soil.
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Re: My vegetable garden in the north of Toulouse




by Ahmed » 20/05/17, 09:11

Eclectron, you write:
The disadvantage that you see there is probably the short life of the BRF?

No, the hardwood softwood would evolve towards an aggradation of lesser quality, which should lead to limit the quantities inside the potato chips (but not excluding!) ...
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Re: My vegetable garden in the north of Toulouse




by Did67 » 20/05/17, 09:42

The potentile, which has the characteristics of the strawberry (of which it must be a botanical cousin, not?) Is part of these weeds that develop in our system: they are better adapted than others.

I am content, as for the rest, to pull them out to control the population. But I also wonder if I will not make one of the plants that I will use for cropping experiments under live canopy because it does not rise high ... But: a) it is not a legume; B) what to control it after, once installed ???

As far as the BRF is concerned, again I think we have to see the complexity of the subject. A contribution of BRF is:
- a ground cover
- food for fungi (ligine)
- Inputs of nutrients (stocks in the living part of the wood)
- the supply of substances destined to evolve towards humic substances / long-term soil stability

Soft hardwood lignin is "less beefy" (less polymerized). The BRF will therefore cover less time (but more than a season!), Nourish certain fungi (which produce glues and aggravate), provide elements and help to form humic substances (perhaps less stable, durable, of less quality).

In return, these hardwoods have rapid growth, which allows to renew often ...

In the end, more BRF, more often, of lesser quality, I do not know if it is a bad choice ???

Common sense would not want us to put our eggs in the same basket ...

In the harder hardwoods, the hazel is interesting: its branches are straight, little branched, pass like a letter to the post in the crusher. And it produces fruits (even if, without precaution, they will often be stung - but this contributes to biodiversity, and cohabiting with a squirrel is so cute ...). The ash also, and works well as a tadpole ...
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Re: My vegetable garden in the north of Toulouse




by eclectron » 20/05/17, 10:23

After burning 2 electric shredders :frown: (I "unbridle" them a bit so that everything goes easily and they can't stand too much ...)
I am adept at tender woods without falling into systematism.
I prefer to use willow marsault, common willow, poplar, elderberry and linden.
And also hazel, ash and maple which are already harder.
Plus the dead leaves in the fall and all in summer, all picked up by the lawnmower.
It makes a good mix of which I do not complain but I am totally ignorant about the quality of my mulching?

I am very disappointed by the work of electric shredders in comparison with a professional shredder rental where everything goes quickly and smoothly up to large sections.

Besides if someone has a good reference of electric grinder to advise, I am very interested! : Wink:
I'm looking for ...
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Re: My vegetable garden in the north of Toulouse




by Ahmed » 20/05/17, 12:11

You have this line Plant crushers which seem to be quite robust and which work with hammers and blades (except one, which therefore only branches); However, in the same price range you can have a thermal drum crusher on the same site. The electrics are of Italian manufacture, the thermals, Chinese (it falls well, you who loves to debrig ... : Wink: ).
I will soon test one of these latest models, because I resold my previous crusher because of incompatibility of mood :) ... I have always thought that the drum is better suited than the disc, but I had never found it so far.
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Re: My vegetable garden in the north of Toulouse




by eclectron » 20/05/17, 17:45

Ahmed wrote:You have this line Plant crushers which seem to be quite robust and which work with hammers and blades (except one, which therefore only branches); However, in the same price range you can have a thermal drum crusher on the same site. The electrics are of Italian manufacture, the thermals, Chinese (it falls well, you who loves to debrig ... : Wink: ).
I will soon test one of these latest models, because I resold my previous crusher because of incompatibility of mood :) ... I have always thought that the drum is better suited than the disc, but I had never found it so far.

Great address, thank you! :D
So I hesitate with a petrol engine cheaper and more powerful. (Greater permissible branch diameter)
Until I was doing with amateur plastic shredders but arrived at a time it must be serious.

I confirm for the drum, the pro crusher that I rent from time to time, works well and it's great but the engine does 22cv anyway : Wink:,
I'm not talking about buying ... the price of a new car ...
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