My vegetable garden lazy north of Toulouse

Agriculture and soil. Pollution control, soil remediation, humus and new agricultural techniques.
Ahmed
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Re: My vegetable garden in the north of Toulouse




by Ahmed » 29/04/17, 23:04

I will try to sow carrots with the ground hoping to have a minimum of grass!

Hope is of little use in this field: it is normal for weed seeds to rise once you create good leaf conditions (what you do for carrots works for grasses!); You can not prevent it, but you can use the understanding of natural phenomena to get around the problem.

There are two different tactics: false seeding and thermal weeding.
- The false seeding consists of preparing the sowing of carrots, but not to do so; Then, after the weeds have been removed, it is sufficient to superficial and in good weather (= dry) to destroy these herbs and to proceed to the true seeding (the seeds of weeds located deeper in the ground do not have the conditions to raise, as long as the soil is not too worked) .
- After the sowing of the carrots, nothing is lost, the catch-up option is based on the fact that the carrot seeds take longer to lift than those of the weeds; It is therefore necessary to wait until the last moment to destroy the maximum of undesirables, or to the lifting of the first carrots, passing a slight flame blow which suffice to fade these fragile seedlings.
The application of the latter method is conventional, but is likely to be much more problematic in the middle of a carpet of hay! : roll:
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lily 31
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Re: My vegetable garden in the north of Toulouse




by lily 31 » 29/04/17, 23:37

Ahmed wrote:
I will try to sow carrots with the ground hoping to have a minimum of grass!

Hope is of little use in this field: it is normal for weed seeds to rise once you create good leaf conditions (what you do for carrots works for grasses!); You can not prevent it, but you can use the understanding of natural phenomena to get around the problem.

There are two different tactics: false seeding and thermal weeding.
- The false seeding consists of preparing the sowing of carrots, but not to do so; Then, after the weeds have been removed, it is sufficient to superficial and in good weather (= dry) to destroy these herbs and to proceed to the true seeding (the seeds of weeds located deeper in the ground do not have the conditions to raise, as long as the soil is not too worked) .
- After the sowing of the carrots, nothing is lost, the catch-up option is based on the fact that the carrot seeds take longer to lift than those of the weeds; It is therefore necessary to wait until the last moment to destroy the maximum of undesirables, or to the lifting of the first carrots, passing a slight flame blow which suffice to fade these fragile seedlings.
The application of the latter method is conventional, but is likely to be much more problematic in the middle of a carpet of hay! : roll:


Thank you for the trick of the false seedling, I had not thought about it but thinking was logical : Idea:
For the application of the last method, the garden hose must be provided : Wink:
I will try the two methods make pictures to see the evolution
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Colinot
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Re: My vegetable garden in the north of Toulouse




by Colinot » 30/04/17, 01:58

Did67 wrote:
Colinot wrote:Here are some pictures of my hay covered areas last week.
Tonight I will transplant 50 leeks and for summer vegetables I will wait for next week because I find that it is still a little too cold, moreover, as the earth is covered, the soil must be still a little cool .. .
See you soon



For info: I am not at all "fan" of borders, which I think are a refuge for slugs, but also, when they are not "flat", an obstacle for certain auxiliaries, such as ground beetles. , whose ecological niche is the meadow. I prefer grassy paths, short in relation to the border, mowed ... I think that it makes a more natural "continuity", as it exists in nature ... Even if it is less "clear", less "anthropized" ...


Yes I understood it well after viewing the videos ... but it s a reflex ... aesthetic ... to delimit the vegetable areas of the "lawn" even if it is not a "Green" ... the boards will not stay in place, on the other hand the slabs ... pfffff I had a puncture to upgrade them ...
But perhaps you spoke of the planks which hold the earth in the small flat bands along the fence: I would have to modify everything, I had originally raised the earth from the plate by digging the alley ... I will have to modify this implantation.

In any case, I wanted to thank you for the approach you are taking to make all this technical information available to us free of charge, which allows us to understand how nature works ... It's been 3 weeks since I came across "the sloth's vegetable garden" , after watching all the videos, I peel the forum and I continue to teach myself, even if I do not memorize everything, it is very instructive. Thanks again.

Small precision: you're worried sometimes to make videos too long, personally I appreciated the quiet way that you have to explain clearly, understandable by amateurs, the reasons for your experimentation. I was convinced and I put into practice with the hope that it also works in my kitchen garden.

I will not fail to give the results in a few weeks.

One question: I do in this period of the shredded branches freshly cut, then I consider that it is BRF?
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Ahmed
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Re: My vegetable garden in the north of Toulouse




by Ahmed » 30/04/17, 08:51

@ Colinot: In the strict sense it would not be exactly BRF, but personally I consider that a mixture of woody and herbaceous (leaf) balances the intake between, respectively, fungi and worms. So I do not deprive myself of this possibility which comes in addition to the branches crushed in the autumn and in which are stored a maximum of nutrients; I consider that in spring the distribution of these substances is simply different ...

@Lily: with regard to the second method, besides the watering can which is "curative", it may be wise to place two sheets on each side of the furrow * as the buckling progresses. I would like to point out that at the seedling stage, a light and rapid application is enough to obtain the desired result, this has nothing to do with well established grasses which are only superficially affected by this kind of operation (which is not useful therefore not much in the latter case).

* Even smarter : Wink: , If you do this: provide the heat sprinkler with two sheet metal plates to limit the flame on both sides (as observed on sprayers when a non-selective weed killer was used).
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Re: My vegetable garden in the north of Toulouse




by Did67 » 30/04/17, 09:59

@lily

If I understand correctly, you think of cutting furrows in the hay, then put the earth moleholes ???

If that is the case :

A) that's how I started

b) the area to be weeded is considerably reduced; it therefore becomes "playable"

C) but as described later, I stopped because it worked as well in the land in place, even if the furrow is a little deep, as soon as the hay was brought in the fall and settled: The depth of the furrow maintains moisture (but watch out for slugs!)
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Re: My vegetable garden in the north of Toulouse




by Colinot » 30/04/17, 11:14

Ahmed wrote:@ Colinot: In the strict sense it would not be exactly BRF, but personally I consider that a mixture of woody and herbaceous (leaf) balances the intake between, respectively, fungi and worms. So I do not deprive myself of this possibility which comes in addition to the branches crushed in the autumn and in which are stored a maximum of nutrients; I consider that in spring the distribution of these substances is simply different ...


Hello
Thank you for confirmation. I doubted it a little, and put it at the foot of my raspberries and on some potatoes that had germinated at home. We'll see if I win qq more potatoes. And so raspberries should not suffer from thirst this summer.
I used this method for all the advantages noted and put forward by Didier: not to have to turn the soil saved, to keep the humidity at the feet of my crops and to water as little as possible, and also to limit the invasion of the weeds, And filling of happiness still have beautiful vegetables ... this first season, although all these advantages are not completely to the appointment you will not be serious, it will be better next year because I will cover all my plots in End of autumn and I will not put boards ...

Thank you all for opening our eyes to "new" ways.

[Edited to add a quote tag; Text unchanged / Did67]
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lily 31
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Re: My vegetable garden in the north of Toulouse




by lily 31 » 30/04/17, 11:19

One question: for cooking waste (fruit peels: apples, oranges ... and vegetables) you put them on the hay or covered?
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Re: My vegetable garden in the north of Toulouse




by lily 31 » 30/04/17, 11:23

Did67 wrote:@lily

If I understand correctly, you think of cutting furrows in the hay, then put the earth moleholes ???

If that is the case :

A) that's how I started

b) the area to be weeded is considerably reduced; it therefore becomes "playable"

C) but as described later, I stopped because it worked as well in the land in place, even if the furrow is a little deep, as soon as the hay was brought in the fall and settled: The depth of the furrow maintains moisture (but watch out for slugs!)


Yes I thought to cut the hay put my land of molehills and sow, my big worry is that I just unwind my hay and the layer is very thick and compact !! : Evil: : roll:
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Re: My vegetable garden in the north of Toulouse




by Colinot » 30/04/17, 11:25

Didier recommends putting them on sunny days so that it dries quickly and not have any pb odor and gnats ...
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Re: My vegetable garden in the north of Toulouse




by lily 31 » 30/04/17, 12:08

Colinot wrote:Didier recommends putting them on sunny days so that it dries quickly and not have any pb odor and gnats ...

OK, thanks
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