Cesi SONNENKRAFT Compact E from September 2013 down

[max 01]

Bonjour à tous
I had the same craftsman install in September 2013 an Okofen wood pellet boiler and a CESI Sonnenkraft Compact E.
This CESI does not work properly because the temperature of the sensors is wrong.
The craftsman who installed it changed in September 2014 the temperature sensor located on the panels, but it always indicated after changing bad temperatures.
He repositioned it "tucked a little deeper into the glove" or "pulled it out of the glove a little more" ... I don't remember.

1I am very surprised that the positioning of the probe in the glove of the sensors is not fixed at a determined point but left to the appreciation of the heating engineer. I told him about it, but he didn't give me an explanation.
Does anyone have the answer on this point?

The T ° of the sensors seemed correct then but again the T ° of the sensors is false.

Example in the middle of the night when it is 6 ° the T ° of the collectors indicates 55 °, the T ° of the solar tank indicates 16 ° and the circulator therefore turns to 100%, which therefore cools the water in the solar tank. ......
For several days in the dial appears an alert message
"888,88 ° with a spanner and a danger triangle" indicating a malfunction.

I again alerted the heating engineer for 10 days but I have no news from him, he seems overwhelmed by the situation.

So I'm looking for someone who could give me the technical solution to this problem.

Thank you in advance

[dirk pitt]

probe connected backwards.

[max 01]

Thank you dirk pitt first for your opinion.

I do not understand that there is no "security" to put the probe in the right direction!

Is your answer the fruit of your knowledge of this product?

If you know Sonnenkraft Compact E can you tell me if the positioning of the probe in the glove must be in a mechanically forced location ......?

So that I can intervene with the installer can you develop a little more your answer on the points that I indicate to you so that I have "balls" to discuss with him.

Thank you

[dirk pitt]

no, it's just an easy to verify suggestion and i already had this problem on a boiler.

[1360]

Hello,

The setting of a heater (or anything else) does not in any way depend on the position of a probe in a thermowell. The temperature sensor (the probe) must be "in its place" and it is the regulation of the system that must be fine-tuned using the parameters.

I just think that your heating engineer knows absolutely nothing about the system he installed.

A+

[Did67]

1) I agree with 1360

2) I think dirk meant "inversion" of probes; the top one plugged in instead of the balloon and vice versa ... [for my part, I don't think so, otherwise, it would never have worked]

3) I would add:

a) the more we push the "high" probe into the thermowell the exit Signs (up therefore) and the more the temperature is "correct": this probe is supposed to measure the temperature of the liquid leaving the panel, it is therefore necessary that it is as much as possible "in" the liquid; it is even more "sensitive" for start-up: when the panel is heated by the sun before start-up in the morning, the hot liquid rises by "thermosiphon"; It is therefore important, so that the circulator starts up in time, that the top probe “senses” this temperature rise; So for me, only one possible answer: as deep as possible in the thermowell ...

b) a probe is a simple variable resistor (the resistance of which depends on the temperature); so anything that can "increase" the resistance in line will "eat away" the regulator: oxidation of a fitting, "domino" badly tightened, see electric cable too long / too thin or damaged ...

c) exactly the same for the "bottom of the balloon" probe

d) the temperature difference from which the circulator will start is generally parameterized (I don't know Sonnenkraft in particular)

4) If you have an ohmmeter (a small "electric controller" with which you can measure the resistances represented by an Omega), you can disconnect the probes when they arrive in the regulation box, and measure the resistance; you will easily find a correlation table between resistance and temperature equivalence - start by looking in the appendices of the manual, there is often to "tare" the probes or as a tool for "fault finding". Absolutely harmless: it's as if you are measuring the resistance of a wire!

[max 01]

Thanks to 1360 and Did 67 for your answers.

The T ° indicated for the sensors varies in 1 second from 15 ° to 60 °
for example .
Also sometimes an error code 888.8 is displayed instead of the T °.

On the manual it says:
"Faulty probe - The corresponding probe display channel is showing an error code instead of displaying a temperature."
"888.8 : Broken conductor. Check the condition of the driver "

"- 888.8: Short circuit. Check the electrical connection"
To check the state of the disconnected Pt1000 temperature probes, an ohmmeter must be used.The table below shows the resistance values ​​according to the T ° of the probes.
.................................................. .................................................. .....
Did 67's response is consistent with my interpretation (without any knowledge of the subject) of the manual.

On the other hand, I do not understand that T ° fluctuating with very large variations per second are still displayed if there is "conductor breakage ".

Do you have an explanation?

On the other hand I will make the recommended measurements with an ohmmeter (when I have one).

[Did67]

Yes, it is simple:

- once again, your "box" does not receive a temperature as info; he QUOTE a electrical resistance : that of the wire (normally negligible) + probe (which depends on the temperature, by construction)
- and he converts this resistance in temperature: a small equivalent: 1 ohms = 000 °, 50 ohms = 1010 °, etc [these figures are fanciful; each probe, depending on its construction, to an equivalence table]
- so if your cable is "crappy" somewhere, instead of having a resistance of 1 ohms, the wire + probe assembly will present a much greater resistance (let's take the case of an oxidation which "slows down" the current or, what I had once, a screw not tightened = bad contact!), the box will read 000 ohms ...
- and it will convert that into so many degrees ...
- it is undoubtedly these variations in resistance that are messing up the mess ...

So start looking at the connections on the box, if everything is clean, screw tight but not too tight (sometimes this "crushes" the wire and can lead to breakage).

Then probably at the top, a "connection" between the wire and the probe (it is a "sensitive" point; it is probably there, if it is badly done; like, at worst, two wires twisted together and the whole "isolated" by a piece of chaterton, that oxidizes; the oxide, if it is wet, allows current to pass, if it is dry, less ...). So look, clean the wires and put a real connector, all dry ...

Finally, bad luck, it can be the damaged cable. So take a coil of wire (if it's bigger, it doesn't bother! Like an extension) and replace your wire ...

One of these three checks should give an element of solution ...

Do not worry, there is no current in this part ... You would have a wire, it would be the same. It's just isolated.

[max 01]

Thank you Did67 for your explanations.

As the installation is only 14 months old, I will let the heating engineer resolve this problem because I would not want my intervention to be questioned .....
I will make the most of your explanations by communicating them to the heating engineer if necessary.

But I will try to find an ohmmeter to take the measures you recommend in order to better identify the problem.

[Did67]

It must still be worth 9,99 euros in a DIY store (a "multimeter" made in China)

Here : http://www.cdiscount.com/maison/bricola ... #mpos=2|mp