What to replace gas heaters?

[Did67]

1) We agree that the DPE is conventional (theoretical calculation according to standards) and therefore gives a different result from the consumption observed through the invoices (since you are cold, and that, that is not conventional! ).

The gap seems high to me, all the same.


2) Insulation of roof spaces: perhaps there is simpler than raising the roof, if it is roof space are lost: two layers of corite rock wool, flakes of cellulose wool, etc ...

In any case, for now, this is the biggest leak.

And what's more, it's easy to do!

3) ITE: the materials count relatively little in the invoice. So effectively, start on 20 cm right away ...

4) Disagree with philippe schutt (for once!) And dedéléco on closing the vents: if the radiators are real suction cups, the air flow does not impact the house (the air comes in and out through the suction cup), and does not renew the air!

In a small house, well occupied, poorly insulated and therefore cold, whose frames have been redone and are therefore waterproof, this is the guarantee of condensation at least in damp rooms (kitchens and bathrooms) ...

With mold quickly, risk of allergies ...

I would opt for regulated flows (VMC with variable speed and hygro).

On the other hand, if the radiators take the air in the house (therefore no suction cup in both directions), it is there that there is renewal by the "leaks" and that one can try without VMC!

[dedeleco]

For ventilation, they are too large in standards, in very cold weather and must be adapted to real needs, real condensation, very variable depending on the lifestyle, with me closed is enough most of the time, but if you take 10 showers or hot baths per day, it is not the same as for very rarely, once a month or week !!

In addition, if thermal bridges on cold walls, even when ventilated, water vapor will condense on these cold walls much faster than it leaves through the vents, unless there is enormous ventilation, renewing the air 4 or 10 times an hour and representing a heat loss comparable to that of poorly insulated walls !!
The well-mounted water regulator will give heat losses proportional to your humidity production !!
So you need a good quality dual flow CMV or a dehumidifier that uses energy too.

So if your lifestyle is full of humidity, the solution is difficult.
Doing little humidity, I do not have this problem.

[dedeleco]

Here is what it takes, the mass stove that keeps the heat for several days on solid ground, after an outbreak !!!
https://www.econologie.com/forums/post210343.html#210343

[Did67]

Hence the necessary caution when giving opinions.

At home, at 5, when I arrived in the house which was only 5 years old and no CMV (curious!), And very quickly there was mold in the bathroom especially. Black traces on placo and on Velux edges

One of the girls was suspected of allergies. And me, every morning, "irritated" sneezing when getting up!

I installed a hygro VMC with an additional programming: it works 100% in summer; in winter, long after dinner and evening showers (I can't remember the program: kind continues from 18 p.m. to 24 p.m. to extract the humidity - we are in any case in the process of lowering the temperature; after, I put 1/4 h every hour, to renew; in the morning, again 3 hours after the showers, in the day again 1/4 h every hour ...).

This program is given from memory. I fumbled to find the "minimum union" so that the steam dissipates ...

Basically, the CMV runs 14 hours a day!

So I partly agree with you: forced ventilation continues, it's often exaggerated, even in hygro. But nothing, it's dangerous!

Note all the same: the heat capacity of the air is low. We can "throw" m3, that is few calories. I believe that in a house like mine, a VMC at 100% is of the order of 1 kW (for a heating requirement of about 15). It is not nothing, but not as much as "the draft of cold air that one feels" would suggest!

Finally, in the case which concerns us here: it is necessary to know if the radiators have a two-way suction cup or if they draw air from the rooms. If it's the latter, beware of danger: fatal CO poisoning if we obstruct, with the draft falling ... [/ u]

[dedeleco]

Hence, the need to CO detector working in all cases, even with gas heaters !!!!
Because the risk is rare, bad luck, but deadly (300 deaths per year) and the price of detectors 40 € is worth it.

Sinon in summer I wash outside in the sun with cold tap water, so no condensation and in the winter I wash little compared to some who have the hobby of washing without stopping, absurd, and even bad for health, because takes away the natural protection of the body !!!
I don't understand condensation in hot summer !!!
Unless you are constantly washing, absurd hobby!

So for me, almost, i 0h of ventilation in summer and winter !!
And no mold !!

However, beware, because in the apartment, I saw sneaky case, condensation and mold, especially due to leaks from weak but persistent pipes outside (lowering of water from above or slight leaking of water from bathtub seal from neighbor above, which goes unnoticed, because no visible humidity, but which ensures 100% humidity below and then we are wrong about the cause, then we must remove the hidden leak !!

Even once a poorly dried down sleeping bag with plenty of water (while looking dry !!) was enough to make everything mold in a room with us in the wet November, and remove the wet down was enough to remove this horror of very hidden cause, without touching the weak ventilation !!

But for one of my sons, with my beautiful daughter who was constantly washing, he had to put on a basic dehumidifier, simpler than changing the CMV of the condominium.

[bernardd]

Interesting subject!

I have a few concrete questions:
- how is hot water produced?
- I have seen gas consumption, but what are the corresponding prices?
- how is the roof? what sizes and orientations of the panels?
- what are the sizes on the ground? and facades?
- if I understood correctly, there is no basement or technical room?
- what level of ability / desire to tinker?
- is there a fireplace?

[Philippe Schutt]

I had an experience by renovating a house. As there was a gas stove, I had to make a high and low ventilation of 100 cm2 real each (with a grill I had to make 15x15cm). It became a cooler, to the point that we removed the gas and closed the vents. I live in an old house without CMV and there is no mold, I leave the bathroom door wide open and there is no excess humidity, it would be quite the opposite.