Construction of a well?

[kremer christian]

Who can tell me?
I built a well using an auger, after having passed the layer of marl (clay) I arrived in the sand plus some pebbles this at approx. 3'5m.
I lowered a pvc tube of diam. 200 which I had drilled with 200 holes of 18 mm over a height of 1 m. I got to 4m250 deep
Using a bowl of my manufacture I remove the sand from the inside of the 200 mm tube, but it does not descend.
Is there a system to lower this tube?
Of course I have water but I am not deep enough, at full flow of the pump I decavite in 1 / 4 an hour, 10 mn after I have the water again.

[Philippe Schutt]

Well, the simplest would have been to continue with the auger ...
the water you pump must be full of sand and the pumping will create a vacuum around and below which should allow you to continue to descend.

[gegyx]

First, make holes of 18 mm on a meter when you do not know if you are going to fall into a pebble, which you will be unable to remove, while trying to push the tube a little more.

After clay, when you are in water and sand, you can no longer go there with the auger. The edges collapse and we don't go any further.
So you have to tub.
I assume your auger has a smaller diameter than the smaller diameter of the tube.
In principle on the end of the tube, you thin the thickness of the inner oblique tube so that penetration is easier.
The tube that I had put I sawed it with oblique slots of 1 / 3 in circumference, spaced of a cm, on the first 2 m of tube.
The slots were 1mm, handmade with a miter saw.
To avoid large grains of sand in the suction.

When the sand does not go up any more in the auger, you push the tube, to the max and you hit moderately on it with a big board of 25mm in martyr
My problem was then to build another lighter less solid auger, because it was enough to dig sand…
This will not be your case, because your auger fits inside the tube.
In fact the auger had only one propeller with a hard rubber valve, which closed (not always obvious), the auger in order to raise all the same a little sand each time.
I specify that I had dressed the outside of this auger with a light tube of 50 cm with small holes, so that when you go up, a little twitch so that the valve closes and reassemble calmly but firmly, the holes evacuating most of the water rather than from below, entraining all the sand.
I specify that I made this sliding tube in order to evacuate the sand, once reassembled.
As soon as the auger has been reassembled, a small blow of mass on the wood which covers the end of the pipe. It's always about winning ...
What you have to see is that with 6 m, it is not easy to reassemble all this, without suffering from the back quickly.
But we are getting there.

There are other, more restful methods:
- By bringing in a sanitation truck (or septic tank), which will suck up all the sand and floats it, while you sink your hose. When you get to the pebbles, if you get to bed, it's good.
- There is also the method, with aspiration of a building site pump, which can bring up sludge and stones…

If you are still in the sand, it is bad luck because the end of your tube is not closed, so that the sand will rise in the long run in your pipe with the aspirations and still clog your strainer.
It is then necessary, to put a little big gravel in the bottom.
I do not know if it is sufficient because, otherwise, it would have to be tubed with another pipe, sawed as made for the other, but with a plug at the end. Then you fill the space between the 2 pipes with gravel on 2 m.
Otherwise, you will have to sand your bottom of the pipe with your auger regularly thereafter.

With hindsight from my experience from start to finish, I tell myself that I would have tired my back less by making a large well with concrete nozzles. The minimum proposed is 80 cm, but you must be able to enter it to remove the sand with a bucket and a curved pick, digging at the periphery under the nozzle.
Of course, you will descend shallower (unless you equip yourself as a frog man). But you will have a hell of a buffer water supply.
You have to make a goat to have the nozzles above the hole + planks that span the hole to be able to evolve.
And it is done.
It's more expeditious, if you know someone with a backhoe who will come to remove the layer of clay and a little sand to start…

Do-it-yourselfers also get there with a large reservoir of compressed air which is suddenly released, in an iron tube, which is inserted into the sand. With pressure, the sand is driven out, ejected out of the well.

In this site, it is obvious that there is no point in forcing to break your back for life, and, to secure the site, for walkers and children.

In principle, the right time to dig is in September when the water table is at its lowest (but this year, we can start before ...)

[Flytox]

There is a somewhat barbaric method, you put a strainer ... just "anti pebbles" and you pump with a pump "which does not risk anything" intermittently. She's going to vomit a lot of sand and help you clean up the bottom of the well. To do this continuously, you can at the same time swing water from the mains with the garden hose along the suction hose of the pump.

After a while your PVC will have more space and may be able to go down a little more.

[Philippe Schutt]

yes, that's the method we use around here because there are more stones than sand. in the long run, a sandless area is formed around the well, which improves water renewal.

[Other]

Hello

http://www.technologieoi.com/pages/poin ... tspag.html


http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/french/envi ... 06-118.htm


It is sold in the trade of (points) specifically for this use it is a pipe in general of 1 "¼ with a length of 80cm blocked at its end by a solid steel point and drill numerous holes covered with a fine stainless steel mesh and a perforated stainless steel sheet to protect the mesh, other model is a square stainless steel file winding which leaves a window of 0,5 mm or more depending on the nature of the sand

We drill a hole in the auger until we end up in muddy sand, at this stage we can no longer continue in the auger
It suffices to screw the strainer point on a length of pipe of 1 "¼. With a sledgehammer and a block of hardwood, a fitting screw on the threads to not damage one tap on the pipe to insert it approximately 1 meter in 1,2 meters.
To find the ideal depth by sending water down the pipe
the best place is where the water flows faster, we are in the water table is in coarse sand.
Then we plug with sand around the pipe and pump, at the beginning the fine sand passes through the mesh, then the coarse sand sticks around the tip, after several hours of pumping the pocket of coarse sand around the magnified tip and well flow improves. (a good tip this gives 25 liters to 30 liters per minute)

Andre