scoop oil burner with max recycling

[dedeleco]

Hot, she will be like gasoline.

[bidouille23]

Hi,

;), not for the oil the float;), for the oil I keep the principle of home-made switch, besides I will carrement me make a contact hand-made for the start of the pump like that I Vasi simplify me the development, a beautiful copper strip bend to spring, a rustic and simple thing that should last for years;).

I build and I show;).

see you

[dedeleco]

This exists at 2 € with a longer life:
http://www.conrad.fr/webapp/wcs/stores/ ... &langId=-2

http://www.conrad.fr/microrupteur_a_lev ... 212394_FAS
http://www.conrad.fr/microrupteur_minia ... 706297_FAS

http://www.conrad.fr/microrupteur_levie ... 212386_FAS

It is not essential to hack everything, as in a desert?

Copper oxidizes quickly and the contact becomes messy !!!

[Flytox]

Copper oxidizes quickly and the contact becomes messy !!!

+1. To prevent the switch from degrading with oil, you can also use an "ILS" (flexible reed switch also called Reed). You stick the magnet on the float in front of the reed switch. When the magnet approaches, the contact switches. It works very well without wear etc.

http://www.conrad.fr/interrupteur_reed_ ... s&ns_fee=0

[manoria68]

I have better:
a lever flowmeter. It's waterproof and I put a float

[bidouille23]

slut,

thank you for the advice and links, I know the micro or telemeca switches, it's the same principle;).

In what I think the inter are not in the oil or even side;) you can put them at the distance you want and protected;).

He otherwise the shot of the magnet I like a lot, I have a lot of ndfeb from my disassembly of hard drive;), the ibm is patator have recognized the quality of the internal components.

In short very good idea mmmm thank you flytox, and thank you Manoria, I finished my dismantling and storage and I weld all my components, to make me dry flame, sisi I go until the, I said a max of not recover;) c is a forge in the end do not forget, if it is not here that I let go then it will never be, I intend to do a home heating too but there, the recovery will be only very partial, and nonexistent security side, or say not in this form can be an extreme cjhouila actually but that's the good thing too ..

see you later for the news

[bidouille23]

Hello ,

news;):

Light detector made according to this scheme;), it's simple and it works pretty well a priori, the response time is of the order of a few milliseconds so for me I say it's good, all put in a box from a parallel port switch, in short a small box very nice;).

http://deltajp.pagesperso-orange.fr/montages/photo.html

All of recup. cost zero and fun, plus it works lol .


In the course of assembly in its box;) not finished yet I test the burner for the moment;).




The ignition HT works well too, but I'm not trying for the moment, I'm content with the torch I add the boot when the single burner walkas nickel (I have problems with cold oil have come back after; )).

This is what it looks like, a wired control, a red battery, and my brown box with coil and circuit, I have my hand in alignment with the radiator that comes out the top, to cool the transistor;).



and that's when I realized that the champion candles were puffing up all the juice (other brand works very well;)), saw the nice electric arc between the wires above the "T" .



Otherwise, I cracked yesterday and I did tests rather conclusive and informative.

If have set the jet on the front of the ball as for the babigton, actually have a flame adjustment possible, but suddenly the adjustment is mainly by movement of the tube of supply of oil, there is a funny trick to do is to run oil on his finger to form a film and watch what happens if you move or fingers, tilting, or the drizzle of oil;).

If on the contrary have done like Andre, have aimed the middle pile hair (adjustment of the precision with the eye still one faith;)), then the adjustment via the valve has all its meaning.
It is true that I had a white flame by moving the jet on the front of the ball, so hotter but more polluting so, I will rather stay on the flame 1200 and some degree;), and sink the oil on the middle of the ball, when it's set it's good, I find it easier to adjust to the tap.


here is a nice flame around 0.5 bars


Well I have so to speak nothing the lol just the burner and its hook flame that spits in a tube of chimney in fine scrap (which had been dragging for quite some time it was cold .
I had a hat, exhaust gas heating, end of the tube 120 history to keep a little heat and burn the imbrulée in the tube.
so I pushed the air not far from 2 bars and here is what it gave me (have seen nothing that shines too much lol I will resume tomorrow;))



Good second thing is that my hat began to melt at the end of the pipe 1.5m anyway lol it heats say .

So, a review of the first tests:

The flame ignites directly after a little blow of blow on the pre-filter.

After raising the temperature of the catching flame everything stabilizes (in any case with clean oil without fat or grease the piece is for later lol)

So the fact of dissociating the flame grip from the "T" effectively has the effect of cutting off the heat transfer by conduction, suddenly even after an hour you can get your hands on the "T" well not ten years but a two seconds without worry of burns.
In my very first tests with the flame holder screwed on the "T" beware of the temperature and the operating faults that go with it.

No heat problem too lol, rather the heat less, I'll have to do some brass tricks or something like that to keep the oil supply pipe and the pre-filter slightly in temperature (like a 40 ene degree would not hurt I think).

Today I cracked I bought stuff arff, I was at the scrap metal and I found a lot of things nice .
I got it for less than 100 euros, for a deville stove in fact weighs 140 Kilo;) and takes 50 cm logs (photo tomorrow). I drilled it to put a nozzle door, it's a piece of cast iron to make the eyes of water in the bitumen (I am caught with the stove).

A tank, an aluminum cube. 50 side cm with an inlet tube and a nickel output what.

bearings for something else;), with aluminum wheels fitted on it. Some hundred different capacitor resistors still attached in their original packaging;), and a stage of industrial machine power control in perfect condition stuffed with super amps and full of other great stuff I manage the stock lol.
And finally a few meters (8 I have aluminum pipes of 14 / 12 mm).

And I stopped there, it's still pure foli labas hihihi he had just received industrial lines with lots of crazy stuff I'll go back to take telematic;), pumps filters etc;), a cheap .

So good I crack but it's worth the shots you'll see it in the photos;), plus scrap it would have cost me more to make a forge, I have time before melt, so I will take the time to get a nice piece of iron to make me a bigger oven (later trankil ).

Well I also had a great idea lol, I put the oil in the oil to see, well that's it I need to warm up the oil supply tube arff (I just put another problem while I wanted to try something else arff too hurried the boy not well lol).

in short, it goes forward and it burns.

[bidouille23]

Bonjour,

a video is better than two you will get it;):


http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xh7q5d ... l_creation

and better:

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xh7w9k ... e_creation

the flame is blue 10 cm and I have my idea to make a post combustion much better than that and one or two simple thing to add;).

Balance for the moment:

The flame grip with its departure at app 3cm from the ball is not bad, on the other hand it gets dirty a prioria rather quickly. On the other hand the fact of dissociating the AF from the "T" allows to gain degrees at the level of the ball, allowing a stabilitée (in any case as long as we introduce hot oil or fat), I will therefore shorten the tube with the spout to bring the tap closer to the "T" and gain heat;), and if that is not enough some copper towers will do the trick;).
This being the flame is created just at the entrance of the 1.5 AF cm app of the ball is pretty good.

I try to back the nozzle was less good as a result, adding a tip to increase the size of the AF it makes more noise and it burns no better.
So I think the 1 "1/4 union is very good in a 1" 1/2 "T";), even if it needs to be cleaned from time to time.


Side return oil, good I have concerns it's clear, I'll have to try to put a washer to keep only the thin part of the oil sprayed, just to correct the problem of AF that gets clogged up and the rest that clogs up too .

The post combustion works well with or without it's a whole world, and again I recovered the gas chimneys;), I already found my system to recover or imbrulés well before the fireplace;) better normally.

Otherwise I'm going to do a test with hot water fog;) it's worth the blows just to see.

The sound I need it more lol I can not get the flame pulsar, even 8 bars , I opt for the fan on the rear face (I already have version 2 of the burner in mind but more based on a "T";) but a "+" hihi but for the moment I keep that like that) and flame boosting;).

Even all as wobbly as would say that it is well I find it very very encouraging, there's more than a definitive fix the points that suit me and plug all these leaks to the connection with just round seal ??? what is not welded or with fillasse leaking, lol I would never be a good plumber lol.

Here for today it's rather encouraging I think.

to be continued ...

[manoria68]

Hello,
I see that you are a relentless!

That's good, I see that it takes shape.
you're lucky to be able to go to a farmer. With us, it has become forbidden to the public under the pretext of sécurité!

For the wood stove, it's good, but a pity to use one that has such a bad performance, but hey, you're not even at the same stage as me

If you do it one day with a boiler, I advise you not to take shit, you can then have 2X more power.

The open hearths like your boiler or that of Boubka are really not the best at the level of performance. Those who have a flame system returned with exchanger support the best. I warm if I want my workshop + double garage, and we die hot in the barracks in a few hours (not counting the pool)

Keep taking pictures and videos of what you're doing, that's fine.
For my personal opinion, on this forum, there are many people who blabber too much without taking action ...

I give you another tip: Make each device of your burner nikel and independent and heavy, for example: the oil bowl, capacity 5 -10L max, integrated resistance with regulation of T °, ​​pump immerged with big gears + oversized motor, level sensor with proven mechanics.
Uses if you can the 5mm sheet of minimum thickness, pipes of 10 mm mini (it will close famais) , ball of big size, it is more stable for the flame according to the oils / greases etc etc ...
The big mechanic is more and more easy to do
PS: your second video does not work

[bidouille23]

Good evening,

re the link of the video:

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xh7w9k ... e_creation

normally it must work, otherwise go direct on dailymotion and looking for flame oil and vegetaline;), and tell me news .


Manoria for info it is forbidden in all France to recover at the scrap dealers;), now site me just a name of scrap metal who refuses to earn money;) .Lol scrap it can even teach you to melt copper if you ask them politely;), uses Sioux techniques;).

For the big mechanics I agree;), the only thing is that I always make a forge;) and that all this editing is certainly not final, I use it to develop the background and not the form ;) .



If you reread 115 pages at 120 of André's post burner, in there have found a very clear message from André and I walk on his steps if can say, he traced the road and set limits for do not be lost, just follow them;).

Nozzle, single double, off the body etc.

In my forge delirium it is true that the ignition by candle can be removed to keep only the essential, security, as the saying and do André, for fun and to learn I'm one when even (I think it will serve a little and then at all after so recycled on another project;), because for the forge you are next and the torch in the workshop there is never far;) easier and faster a torch contact with the hot oily mixture sprayed and the burner is lit and keeps the flame, after the nozzle heats up and the combustion is better and you send the back air with recylclage of the gases;) and the it begins to chat and it is only a test;), the flame is in warhead I say that it is a very good sign, and the ten centimeters of blue flame that comes out of the nozzle and this flame that holds at 8 bars tell me that I will continue on my throw, in total for info the second flame do a good 50 cm see X NUMX same, the burner is about thirty cm from the walls of the fish).

Side stove besides you tell me that performance is not good, I agree if it remains as is;), if I add deflector I can concentrate more heat in, with refractory brick (house fabricatio adapted to the stove) the inertia will be even greater, and if to finish, I add an exchanger air see even water on the chimney I think that the performance should be much better;) .Is sure if have done trust blindly in all the manufactures have not come out lol, they do not want our good, just our money;), so they are not going to sell us super top stuff that you will not change, and when it does the material in question does not stay long on sale it is withdrawn from the market, Tv Stove, there are even brands that have stopped producing even firm I think because she fesais too good cam, looking for green rhino gloves treated anti everything, you soak them you put them in the sun, you resumes it is still flexible even dry;) Well it does not exist too durable gloves not profitable;), for the stove and boiler is the same thing can be improved)

In short thanks for the advice I will follow them with regard to the pumps etc, for the reheating I already have a resistance in the oil with a thermostat, I also have line heater one of 240 watt s from an old facial lol atomizer, it is a superb copper tank with a resistance band 300 watt, I'm another bigger one also cook like a lab trick this time;) and both with thermostat.

Regarding the heater elsewhere I had an idea:

with a diesel filter, those with the drain underneath, have can easily make a pre-filter heater;), with a small resistance in it, it can be thermostatically so (thermostat skirt of the genus 40 a50 degree). can save power, have only heated a very small amount of oil;).

In short today it was disassembly control and manufacture of paw poru the maintenance of the nozzle now that I know where I will put it.
I make beautiful legs;).

Regarding down I changed obtique I will keep the system portable;).

So I keep the big pot down (30 l) and I put a Gericane iron (change oil tank) of 30 l too but I will use 15 liters only max (10 l is too little autonomy) at the top I think, so more pressure and more time without pumped, André has 30 L at the top.

The difference is that it is a forge here not a boiler the needs and mode of operation are not the same.
Here not ten thousand start, so I can get me a heater filter and after starting it is the burner that heats the rest, or down to be pumped to the top.

In short for the future boiler I would follow the advice for the most part, and I thank you again for sharing it .

a plus and do not hesitate to leave a trace;), a tip, a tip, an encouragement why not;), it's always a pleasure (but it brings nothing but pleasure it's not lucrative)

go zouuu good niuteeeee

see you later