greenhouse heating heat buffer

Solar thermal energy in all its forms: solar heating, hot water, choosing a solar collector, solar concentration, ovens and solar cookers, solar energy storage by heat buffer, solar pool, air conditioning and solar cold ..
Aid, counseling, fixtures and examples of achievements ...
beaver faithful
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Registration: 23/10/13, 22:58




by beaver faithful » 29/12/14, 19:33

Hi,

Maintain + 10 for -10 outside is very good and it can save everything from freezing!

Regarding thermal solar panels, I had also considered making some but I think it is better to buy used.
I bought 7 on Le Bon Coin for 100 € piece. They are a bit odd, but if I had to spend time to make them, buy the materials, I think they would have come back much more expensive!
I guess you know the forum from APPER, that's where I got this advice.
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beaver faithful
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by beaver faithful » 06/03/15, 23:57

Hello Cortejuan, all,

I restart this thread because if I have not much advanced greenhouse construction side, I have advanced this winter cogeneration side and I now work with 100% vegetable oil.
See here a new link on this topic:
http://www.oliomobile.org/viewsujet.php ... ad54c111f7

I can therefore hope to use free calories in the middle of winter to heat my greenhouse by passing coils of hot water through the water buffer.

To come to my greenhouse, however, I advanced in my thinking, see the last pages of the links mentioned above.

So I'm thinking about mixing aquaponics and permaculture.

The aquaponics that seduces me is used according to this link
http://ibcofaquaponics.com/
It allows, if I summarize briefly, to cultivate without bending down, because the work plan is above under a tub of water and to eat the fish swimming in this water.
I found very interesting the video showing the economical construction of an aquaponics system from a plastic tank of 1000 liters.
The only thing that bothers me is to see that the soil is replaced by clay balls.
What I would like is to have the soil used in irrigated permaculture following the principle of aquaponics.

So if someone has looked into a solution of this type, I am strongly interested in feedback.

Cortejuan where are you from your work?

Yours.
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cortejuan
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by cortejuan » 04/04/15, 13:01

Hello everybody

With a slight delay (?) I react. My system behaved very well this winter, but applying the principle that the best energy is the one that we do not consume, I isolated the pinion and the least sun-exposed side from January to mid-March. medium of extruded polystyrene panels with tongue and groove of 4 cm.

So not on conso.

One concern, a fan that sometimes did not start, probably the electrical load was too low on the power cut and it did not start. I replaced it with a beefier and more efficient.

I have not decided yet whether or not I add the heat sensor flap, we must still think ...

cordially
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Christophe
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by Christophe » 17/05/15, 00:56

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cortejuan
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by cortejuan » 10/12/15, 10:30

Hi everyone,

some news of my installation. As I had explained, I separated the heating line of the greenhouse from the water heating line of the 2000 thermal buffer liters. For that I had installed a pump 370 W deemed to be able to rotate permanently (brass turbine) and coupled to my boiler. The idea was more or less good because on the one hand, from 40 degrees the pump placed in the vicinity of the tanks was disconnected since the temperature exceeded the safety instruction, on the other hand, during the maintenance tests in summer, the pump stopped since April did not want to restart (seizure) not embarrassing when you have access easily, very complicated when you have to open the insulation to give a screwdriver on the axis ...

So foot change, I replaced the pump with a central heating pump placed outside (in a box isolated). To avoid the risk of frost and overheating, I associated with this circulator two bulb thermostats triggering at 3 degrees and 40 degrees. So if I forget to run the circulator when I make a fire (I am very stunned) when the water coming out of the boiler reaches a 60aine of degrees (40 outside) the circulator is triggered. Ditto if the water in the boiler reaches zero degrees, the circulator engages sending lukewarm water into the boiler.

All this works without problem. The circulator has a power of 30ain of watts, it turns in medium speed (3 speeds). The only problem is the risk of cavitation due to the absence of pressure in the circuit (0.1 bar) but hey, we do with it.

Since this change, I'm really quiet, I launched a flare and the circulator and I let it run throughout the outbreak. In 3 hours I gain 10 degrees in my 2000 liters. So I run the outbreak when the water temperature drops to 20 degrees (like this morning), towards 17 hours, the water will be at 40 degrees or more and I will be pampered for 2,3 or 4 days depending on the outside temperature .

Another point, the installation is odds and ends composed of several thermostats (set in heating, set in clim, etc.).

I will replace everything with a single control by means of an Arduino microcontroller. This will allow me to implement a thermostat controlling the system, the radiator etc ... moreover my fans will not turn all or nothing but I can adjust their speed. This procedure will prevent the heater from switching on and off at too high a frequency when the buffer temperature is high.


The next step is the solar thermal collector, it matures in my head ...

Here you are ...

see you
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cortejuan
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Re: greenhouse heating heat buffer




by cortejuan » 17/02/16, 10:56

Hello,

I am back with a request for advice;

Basically, everything works as desired, that said, I still consume too much energy (even if it is reclaimed wood or other). My greenhouse consumes on average between 12 and 15 kwh during the night when the outside temperature is 0 degrees and the temperature kept inside 9 at 10 degrees. This leads me to fire every 2 or three days, it is not very painful because the fire is lit, I only take care of reloading the boiler without worrying about gunshots or slowdowns thanks to the thermal buffer .

That said, the best energy being the one we do not consume, I think improving insulation. For now, in winter, the greenhouse is insulated internally by means of bubble plastic. The rear vertical wall (in the shade) and one of the two gables are protected externally with extruded polystyrene 4cm. I compensate for the drop in brightness with blue-red led lamps. All this is removed in April.

So I try to complete with an external insulation in the form of a 3 5mm thick sheet of polystyrene type with a metallized face.

This sheet would be unrolled on the roof and walls for the night.

So it must be strong, weatherproof, easy to roll, etc.

What do you think ? What do you recommend ? Even if the solution imagined is very different.

Style solutions replace windows with polycarbonate do not interest me. I want to preserve the aesthetics of the greenhouse outside the winter period.


Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

On driving by arduino, I have made good progress, much of the programming is over. The job now is to make the final circuits and especially test the new installation.

cordially
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cortejuan
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Re: greenhouse heating heat buffer




by cortejuan » 21/09/17, 17:20

Hello,

after a long desertion, here is a feedback.

The overall system has not changed what has evolved is the management of the enslavement. I completely abandoned the device composed of multiple thermostats associated with power relays and turned to arduino. Everything has been rewired in the micro-controller spirit. After some trouble (blocking a fan motor and serious heating of some wires (plus a power MOSFET burnt)), everything works perfectly.

At first, I sent the data via an arduino nano + a radio module NRF24 to a display located in my house. Nothing to say alarm function, data of the two reserves buffer + greenhouse temperature read every 5 mn. Only problem, I could not store the data to analyze them.

Recently, I opted for a transmitter solution (arduino + NRF24) but receiver (NRF24 + esp8266 + ThingSpeak). Thingspeak is a tool for viewing data stored on the cloud on the internet. In a slightly more precise way, the temperature data are transmitted to the arduino board. This transmits them to the radio module NRF24 which has a range of several hundred meters (with external antenna, 1km). At the receiving level, a similar module detects the data and sends it to the esp8266 module. The latter works with the conventional WIFI protocol and can therefore talk with the livebox (or other). From it the data is transmitted on the net via thingspeak.

Why two wireless system end to end? because the esp8266 module is mainly intended for domestic use and therefore has a limited range (a few 10aines of meters). This is the nrf24 module that does all the work ...

This is what can be obtained as info knowing that for fans of Mathlab everything is allowed to perform digital processing of info.

Image

I forgot, black point for some, it is necessary to program in Arduino language so basically in C, C ++ but there are many programs ready made on the net. Just adapt them (and understand them). Finally, the esp8266 module can be programmed in arduino language so if you know how to handle arduino, esp8266 is a breeze.

Ah yes the price? A few euros for the arduino nano and a few euros for the module esp8266.Idem for the mosfets and lles some relais.Le more expensive (and still) are the lcd displays.

thank you for your patience for those who have read everything.
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Christophe
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Re: greenhouse heating heat buffer




by Christophe » 21/09/17, 17:50

cortejuan wrote:Hello,

after a long desertion, here is a feedback


Hello,

Thank you for this very interesting feedback! 8)
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cortejuan
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Re: greenhouse heating heat buffer




by cortejuan » 16/11/17, 15:40

Hello,

here are some news on my heating system. The curves below illustrate the operation between yesterday and today.
It did -1,4 degree out, I keep the temperature at 9 degrees.
During the day, if the temperature in the greenhouse exceeds 25 degrees, my fans and my pumps (connected to my two tampons, under the greenhouse and outside) start and capture the calories while cooling the greenhouse: in winter, it is useless and even unhealthy that the daytime temperature is too high.

At night, only the outer buffer of 2000 liters transmits its calories in the greenhouse.

We note on curve 2 the daily variation in temperature, we note the night maintenance at 9 degrees. The oscillations are all the longer as the temperature of the buffer drops. The "bump" corresponds to the sunburn of yesterday.

On the 3 curve, we can see that the temperature in the reserve under the greenhouse varies a little by thermosiphon, rising a little during the day and falling at night. For now, it is too low, (it's not good for chilly plants) the immersion heaters that held it at 15 degrees (night operation) have given up, I expect more beefy.

On the 4 curve we observe the temperature drop due to the night exchange between the reserve and the greenhouse. The rapid recovery this afternoon is due to the start of the boiler that provides the amount of calories needed in the absence of sun.

By and large, my outdoor heat buffer ranges from 30 degrees max to 13 degrees min. When the nights are around zero degrees, I want 3 days before resurrecting ...

See you

Image
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alicec29
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Registration: 20/11/17, 12:48

Re:




by alicec29 » 20/11/17, 12:50

cortejuan wrote:Thank you for the answer,

Regarding the reserve, I have already (850 liters) and without exchanger system (radiator + circulation) it does not work, I just experienced it. A power failure to remove any heating in my two greenhouses, the outside temperature was -8 and morning waking in the greenhouse equipped with the reserve, it was -2 degrees. In the neighboring greenhouse with no water supply, the result was exactly the same (-2 in the greenhouse).

Regarding your comment, it's true and false ... Indeed, the temperature will drop (it is also the goal to avoid heat stress) but the thermal efficiency of the greenhouse will increase significantly because when the air in the greenhouse is at 30 degrees while outside it is zero degrees funeral insurance, the losses are considerable (otherwise it showed as in a good sensor 70 degrees or more). So if I capture the calories as they are generated, the temperature will drop, increasing the thermal efficiency of the greenhouse.

Finally very simply, I do not have access with a shovel in my garden, so the buried reserve was planned under the greenhouse, but my kidneys said no ...

cordially

But in cold weather you can always consider covering the white plastic greenhouse unless it destroys the plantations.
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