GOOD EVENING
I am news on this forum I would like to know if you have already encountered degradation of the refractory brick. My log boiler FROLING FHG S3 TURBO WITH REVERSE CONBUSTION at 2 years old and the refractory concrete hearth is deteriorating. My heating engineer at 88 and the company FROLING refuses a repair claiming that the defect and wear. After several letters without answer I took a lawyer who sent them the photos of the hearth they replied that if the boiler deteriorated further they would try to make a move,
they are incompetent and bad times they claim that it is not a manufacturing screw and never moves and waits for the end of the warranty. What do you think?
I AM FROM 52 (HAUTE MARNE) gaelle B
PROBLEM ON BOILER WITH BUCHES FROLING FHG S3 TURBO
If the degradation is only observed on the flame passage slab, then this is probably not abnormal. Indeed, these parts are subjected to very harsh operating conditions since they reach very high temperatures and high thermal amplitudes.
I have had experience with cast iron bars which performed the same function and which "suffered" a lot.
It should be understood that, unlike an upward combustion hearth grate which is constantly cooled by the arrival of primary air, these plates are in the middle of very hot flames, in conditions which are those of a forge, which causes cracking and disintegration of the refractory concrete.
Perhaps you can consider replacing these elements with an adaptation from inexpensive recycled materials: the dimensions are not too restrictive.
I have had experience with cast iron bars which performed the same function and which "suffered" a lot.
It should be understood that, unlike an upward combustion hearth grate which is constantly cooled by the arrival of primary air, these plates are in the middle of very hot flames, in conditions which are those of a forge, which causes cracking and disintegration of the refractory concrete.
Perhaps you can consider replacing these elements with an adaptation from inexpensive recycled materials: the dimensions are not too restrictive.
0 x
"Please don't believe what I'm telling you."
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you clean your boiler well, I think. you remove all the ash and the embers are directly on the concrete.
well no, it's not good. it is better to leave a layer of 1 to 2 cm of ash on the concrete, it protects it.
Then check the primary / secondary air balance. in case of excess primary air, the mass of embers can become enormous.
and finally, at what speed does your boiler work? If it is still at the bottom it is normal that she suffers and it is probably not necessary. For example, a 25kw can be made to turn at this power the time to put the circuit of the radiators in T °, but to heat the balloon it would do just as well at 15kw.
well no, it's not good. it is better to leave a layer of 1 to 2 cm of ash on the concrete, it protects it.
Then check the primary / secondary air balance. in case of excess primary air, the mass of embers can become enormous.
and finally, at what speed does your boiler work? If it is still at the bottom it is normal that she suffers and it is probably not necessary. For example, a 25kw can be made to turn at this power the time to put the circuit of the radiators in T °, but to heat the balloon it would do just as well at 15kw.
0 x
Another question: is it electric ignition / microprocessor controlled or do you light it and pilot it ???
I know that many owners of log boilers uagment the "thermal stress" to which the equipment is subjected by lighting and "blazing" immediately thoroughly ...
Besides the layer of ash, which is better left as an insulating blanket, it is better to slowly start the fire ...
AND indeed, the refractories of a boiler are a wearing part, like the brake pads of a car, the spark plugs or the wiper. After that, it all depends on the speed of wear!
I know that many owners of log boilers uagment the "thermal stress" to which the equipment is subjected by lighting and "blazing" immediately thoroughly ...
Besides the layer of ash, which is better left as an insulating blanket, it is better to slowly start the fire ...
AND indeed, the refractories of a boiler are a wearing part, like the brake pads of a car, the spark plugs or the wiper. After that, it all depends on the speed of wear!
0 x
Did67 wrote:I know that many owners of log boilers uagment the "thermal stress" to which the equipment is subjected by lighting and "blazing" immediately thoroughly ...
Besides the layer of ash, which is better left as an insulating blanket, it is better to slowly start the fire ...
AND indeed, the refractories of a boiler are a wearing part, like a car's brake pads, lcandles or the wiper. After that, it all depends on the speed of wear!
Parts made of refractory materials are given as wearing parts by the manufacturer of the boiler or the users ???
For candles, there are some that could last as long as the engine (platinum electrodes) but the economic model is to charge X times the stew instead of good material.
The material (kind of rubber) and the design of the windscreen wipers is made to self-destruct quickly according to the same principle. Just look at the windshield seal just next to it, it is still flexible and not cracked after 20 years in completely comparable climatic conditions ....
Clearly, what is the economic model of the manufacturer of the boiler, it sells rather a "reliability", or consumable / wearing part.
0 x
Reason is the madness of the strongest. The reason for the less strong it is madness.
[Eugène Ionesco]
http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
[Eugène Ionesco]
http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
Did67 wrote:Another question: is it electric ignition / microprocessor controlled or do you light it and pilot it ???
I know that many owners of log boilers uagment the "thermal stress" to which the equipment is subjected by lighting and "blazing" immediately thoroughly ...
Besides the layer of ash, which is better left as an insulating blanket, it is better to slowly start the fire ...
AND indeed, the refractories of a boiler are a wearing part, like the brake pads of a car, the spark plugs or the wiper. After that, it all depends on the speed of wear!
Good evening
I'm the one who turns it on
0 x
problem-on-froling-log-boiler
Hello
Thank you for your answers, I hope who will remake my refractory plate for me because it is only 3 years old I am waiting for answers from my lawyer.
Thank you for your answers, I hope who will remake my refractory plate for me because it is only 3 years old I am waiting for answers from my lawyer.
0 x
froling boiler problem
Philippe Schutt wrote:you clean your boiler well, I think. you remove all the ash and the embers are directly on the concrete.
well no, it's not good. it is better to leave a layer of 1 to 2 cm of ash on the concrete, it protects it.
Then check the primary / secondary air balance. in case of excess primary air, the mass of embers can become enormous.
and finally, at what speed does your boiler work? If it is still at the bottom it is normal that she suffers and it is probably not necessary. For example, a 25kw can be made to turn at this power the time to put the circuit of the radiators in T °, but to heat the balloon it would do just as well at 15kw.
HELLO
The boiler is an 18KW it is my heating engineer who set it for me at the end of the work and since I have never disturbed it when I have a problem I call it apart for the problem of the refractory he came to see called froling and since no news .thanks
0 x
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