Le Potager du Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio

[Did67]

Hello,

I want to install a drip irrigation system from the well that I have in my garden for my vegetable garden.
I just bought the submerged pump, all the rest is to be done.
Do you have advice on a simple installation, and obviously not too expensive if possible?

Thank you

The drippers deliver little. It is therefore a considerable waste of energy to put the water under pressure and then "depressurize" it in the drippers! I recommend you to pump in a tank placed in height and, from there, connect your lines of drippers with a "timer" ... This saves your pump and energy ...

For low pressures, as would be the case in this system, do NOT take a self-regulating dripper, which have a minimum triggering pressure, which may not be reached (0,6 bars, 6 m high!) .

[Julienmos]

R
c) Of course a soil plays. And that there are huge differences, especially in terms of nutrient richness, ability to retain water, ability to structure by aggradation probably too (although I am not aware of any studies who have studied this!).

d) I cannot be affirmative in relation to all the situations, but there are several "experiences" of people having obtained very good pdt, in quantity by doing like me: laying on the earth, covering with clippings, compost, hay ... Were the floors always "easy" ??? Perhaps ???

I can only encourage you to make tests "all other things being equal": you do as you think, and the same day, in the same place, you leave two feet that you put on the surface and cover with hay ... You repeat this half a dozen times, and in 6 years, you will have a "pretty sure" answer!

Regarding the aggradation, despite the relative compactness of my soil with high clay content, I think I can say that there has been a real improvement: already the earthworms are extremely numerous, including very large anecic, when I breaks, for example, a motte, I find almost at each stroke one or more galleries of different diameters, on the other hand the mound disintegrates better than formerly between my fingers (although this also depends on the humidity rate), I find even flying black insects, whose name I do not know! Under ground (proof, I suppose, that there is a good porosity, air), the consistency, the color make me believe that the rate of humic mat or organic mat (?) Has increased, this which also seems normal after a few years of cover and contributions (clippings, hay, compost, crushed dry stems, hemp mulch, various organic vegetable residues ...) and the heavy work of worms during all this time.

Concerning the potatoes, I put 4 rows buried (having worked the soil on 10 cm), I add a good layer of hay as a "hilling" and finished.

But as I have about fifteen sprouted potatoes, I will find a little more space to add a row, placed on the ground, with only 30 or rather 40 cm of hay + clippings on top.

[guibnd]

I have a question regarding the true / false BRF.
I know that the subject has often been discussed and that the diameter of the branches, the season, whether they are green or dry branches ... determine the quality of the BRF.
but I still can not know what the real BRF is?
question: if I grind at the moment Thin branches (maximum 2cm) of defoliated forthysia covered with buds / young leaves, elderberry, linden, bower ... and that I put them at the foot of raspberries, currant bushes, strawberries already in place and beds of perennial flowers, is will there be the famous nitrogen hunger?

[Did67]

Forsythia is a "very tender woody".

I think that with the leaves, rich elements are circulating in the sap and / or in the green leaves. So all crushed into being fairly comparable to "real BRF". I don't think there is much to fear about "nitrogen hunger" ....

[Moindreffor]

as Didier often says, plants do not need loose soil

Two years ago my carrots, in my soil not worked, had been forked forked ... but definitely less last year, where I made an exception by refining the soil on my two small rows (of carrots ), and by lightening the plants well after sowing.

you have cleared your carrots and you have refined your soil, what has made the biggest difference? I have done this myself too and actually I had beautiful carrots (I had softened with ashes while digging 2 lines of the width and the depth of the transplanter), I had also looked after the unmarriage, in short j I had like you cared my carrots that year, given the harm that I had given myself, but other times I also had beautiful carrots without doing the same, but what I notice is that when caring is better, I always tend to leave too much

but for me the real question is:
is a forked carrot worse than a carrot right?
A beautiful carrot harvested at the right time, it's like a new potato that does not peel, so forked or not we do not care a bit no?

[Moindreffor]

my potatoes are starting to raise so question?

in classical culture, we put the potatoes well buried in the soil and we bump once or twice to be sure that the tubers will form in the shelter of the light, but there under the hay? what thickness,

it's quite easy to butt a row of potatoes, but add hay or grass clippings, so my question is is it possible to almost completely cover the potato plants with hay or mowing leaving only a few leaves sticking out and renew several times to make sure that the layer will be very thick, where will the potatoes form? at what level?

[Ahmed]

It is always possible to recharge to avoid the greening of the tubers, but, from a practical point of view, we must anticipate and do it when the development of the foliage still allows this operation, otherwise we find ourselves quickly stuck ....

[Moindreffor]

It is always possible to recharge to avoid the greening of the tubers, but, from a practical point of view, we must anticipate and do it when the development of the foliage still allows this operation, otherwise we find ourselves quickly stuck ....

that's why I want to do it from the beginning so wait until the stems come out about ten centimeters and still be very straight and undeveloped and renew when they have taken another tens of centimeters

do you think this is playable this way, because once the foliage developed it will be mission impossible indeed
please

[guibnd]

Forsythia is a "very tender woody".
I think that with the leaves, rich elements are circulating in the sap and / or in the green leaves. So all crushed into being fairly comparable to "real BRF". I don't think there is much to fear about "nitrogen hunger" ....

should we understand that when there are leaves on the branches, they bring nitrogen that compensate for the hunger of nitrogen.
is this reasoning valid only for the forsythia or all the essences.
is this also valid in summer? where is it still better to prefer the BRF after the fall of the leaves?

I ask all this because I have many trees, shrubs, hedges ... to cut and I do not have time to do everything during the ideal season (after the fall of the leaves) and I would like to divide this work size / grinding over the year by making the most of this BRF ...

[Ahmed]

This is the bias that I adopted, for the same reasons as you and assuming that this contribution (which is not the BRF, stricto sensu) can only be beneficial, precisely because of the presence green leaves; but nothing really scientific in there ...