Which crusher to produce BRF (Raméal Fragmented Wood)?

Agriculture and soil. Pollution control, soil remediation, humus and new agricultural techniques.
Ahmed
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Re: What mill to produce BRF?




by Ahmed » 22/02/18, 19:31

I received the belts this morning and I immediately proceeded with the assembly.
After some trial and error, here is the method that seems to me the easiest: remove the upper pulley (a central bolt of 10 and it comes all by itself, because it is mounted free around a centrifugal clutch); loosen the two engine fixing bolts on the pulley side and remove the other two located on the other side; position the two belts in the grooves of the lower pulley, then upper, present the upper pulley near its axis, then tilt the motor on the pulley side: this allows the pulley to be put in place on its axis; refit the bolts of 10 and check that the belts are still in place, then tighten the bolts on the other side of the engine to tension the belts normally, tighten the last two bolts on the pulley side, lock everything; finally refit the housing.

This afternoon, to take advantage of the great sun and to test the machine, I grind the branches of a small walnut tree (20 cm in diameter with the stump): I find the initial performance of the device and everything is set in exactly 10 minutes ... 8)

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Did67
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Re: What mill to produce BRF?




by Did67 » 22/02/18, 19:39

Ahmed wrote:I have a friend who had the same shredder as the one that preceded this one (with the live knife support disc) and, after a brutal blockage has skewed the crankshaft of the engine ... :( .


This is one of the risks with brushcutters like beefier mowers, with the blade in direct contact with the engine: you hit a stump that you do not see, and the instantaneous stop can twist your crankshaft as dry!
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Ahmed
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Re: What mill to produce BRF?




by Ahmed » 22/02/18, 20:33

On large agricultural machines there are torque limiting devices with ferodo discs which avoid this kind of problem under extreme constraints, but on small devices, the belts constitute a palliative: it is less satisfactory, in the sense that the belts n don't really enjoy skating, because they are designed above all not to skate and thus best transmit the power from the motor to the tool.
In the case of this grinder, it would undoubtedly not be difficult to integrate a simplified torque limiter; maybe at the level of the lower pulley, because the upper one already receives a centrifugal clutch ...
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Re: What mill to produce BRF?




by Ahmed » 06/03/18, 22:04

Regarding the wear of the belts of my shredder, I think it useful to specify that, in addition to the large quantity of branches crushed for a year, it is necessary (and possible) to assess the maximum capacity of the machine in order to avoid the rotor lock. From this point of view, the learning phase was multiplied by three, since I occasionally use the help of two friends, who were also responsible for these skates.
You should know that this problem of power variation also exists on large shredders and that a sensor detects any slowing down of the cutting member, which has the effect of cutting the hydraulic supply of the drive rollers; on the even more sophisticated versions, these rollers even initiate a slight recoil movement to release the cutting system. As soon as the speed reaches the setpoint again, the re-opening power supply solenoid valve and the feed of material starts again. It is very visible on the videos, because we can see that the operation is done by jerks. *
On my mulcher, it is the operator who replaces this device by retaining the branches when he considers that the effort must be better distributed over time: it is therefore necessary to exercise his "feeling" (which comes very quickly )! I therefore have reason to hope that the life ** of the current belt set will be significantly longer than the previous one.

Next work, the imposing antlers of a large tadpole lime tree (already on the ground), followed by the branches of a large oak and some smaller ones: chestnut, cherry, ash (still to be felled) ...

* I would have illustrated well with a video, but I can no longer find the icon allowing insertion :?: Help me, please!
** At the same time, at 22 € per game, it is not catastrophic.
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Re: What mill to produce BRF?




by Ahmed » 27/03/18, 20:51

Out of curiosity, I consulted the assessments of the buyers of this shredder on the seller's site (AgriEuro). Opinions are often immediate reactions, concerning reception and installation more than use; many witnesses regret the absence of instructions in French and the artistic vagueness concerning the wiring of electrical safety devices; personally, I consider that the assembly is very easy, for the electrical connections, which can make him puzzled, it is that there is a wire on the motor which does not connect to anything, because the latter is intended for the mounting on other devices and it is quite clearly explained on the diagram pasted on the housing of the drive belts (but I only saw it after the connection, because it is quite discreet : Mrgreen: ).
For those who pass judgment after a little use, the vast majority are very satisfied with the performance of the tool; conversely, some are very disappointed, because a severe blockage (or a series of blockages) make their task impossible, or at least very difficult. This disparity in appreciation is, in my opinion, due to a lack of understanding on the part of the dissatisfied with regard to the operating mode and the constraints to be observed in the use of the shredder.

I am about to get down to solving the question, still pending, of adjusting the orientation of the cap of the ejection chute. I thought for a moment about the combination of a bicycle chain (welded so as to form a bar with holes) and a portion of the bottom bracket, but I fear that this will only lead to a somewhat coarse adjustment. I got a car jack and this should give me something much more progressive, due to the continuous action of the screw.
To be continued...
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Re: What mill to produce BRF?




by Ahmed » 28/03/18, 18:49

I took advantage of a gloomy morning to finally tackle the last planned improvement. To do this, I got a diamond jack for scrapping yesterday and I started. First grinding of my laborious previous attempt and study of the positioning of the elements which will be cut out on this jack. On the first photo, we can see the next step: the cuts have been made and the elements presented in their respective locations. I took the opportunity to cut very small pieces of sheet metal to plug the two oval holes at the top of the cap which annoy me a little (strands manage to slip through and initiate obstructions).

On the second photo, I carried out all the welding operations and cut to the correct length the square thread screw, reduced the length of the crank (I leave it long enough and I restore the initial joint *, cut to disassembly , to add an unbalance sufficient to counteract rotation due to vibrations). The photo was taken after satisfactory test: the adjustment is very fine, without play and above all very stable. In the end, I went to much less trouble than when I tried to start and got something very satisfying, but I now knew the data of the problem much better. I only have a little paint left to give the final touch.

* The articulation, in addition to simplifying the rotation by allowing the crank to be oriented according to its convenience, left me a possibility of blocking out of its rotation zone if the system had again proved unstable.
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Re: What mill to produce BRF?




by Ahmed » 28/04/18, 22:56

Small "sites" of grinding here and there, with friends or neighbors (at one of the latter, a large quantity of branches of hazelnut and birch trees (=> 5 m3 of crushed material).
Then, a huge pile of branches resulting from the slaughter of a large American walnut: it is carried out in several sequences, because it is necessary to alternate the release of the logs and what must be crushed; the ground material is sprayed directly under a common walnut (albeit royal! * :D ) with the cap opening to the maximum and several successive projection angles in order to obtain a summary spreading. I still have several to drop, but the others will wait until next fall, because it is rather open-ended. All the same, I then found the time to crush the branches of a lime tree cut for "some time" (for those who follow!), As well as acacia branches. In sight, a bunch of freshly cut hazel and cedar branches, of reasonable size and, more worryingly, a huge pile of various branches resulting from a make-up pruning at a friend's house: wood cut in January and which I hope not too dry ...

Concerning the sharpening, I must say by experience that as long as one passes short sizes of finishing or plants, the impact of the quality of the cutting edge is quite indifferent. It is quite logical that this is not at all the case as soon as the diameter and hardness of the branches increase and this quickly becomes a source of fatigue for the mechanics and consequent slowing down of operations. It is therefore important not to hesitate to refresh the edge of the blades before any work, even if it is not really dull. This will also be the case after having the mixtures of small debris swallowed in the crusher, always liable to contain possible hard and / or abrasive particles. The ease of disassembly and sharpening amply militate in this direction, fortunately. It should be remembered that the steel of the blades being exposed to significant impacts is not subjected to very hard soaking, which would make it too brittle for this use and that therefore its resistance to abrasion remains modest, hence the usefulness of regular maintenance.

* It's a word game for connoisseurs! : Wink:
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Re: What mill to produce BRF?




by Ahmed » 01/06/18, 17:55

The pile of dry branches was swallowed, at least for the not too large stems, but it was quite painful: a lot of noise and unpleasant vibrations transmitted to the hands ... :frown: Hazel and linden trees, on the other hand, did not cause this kind of concern.

Mechanical issue, I noticed that when changing the belt (see above) one of the engine fixing bolts had been screwed askew, which of course forced the threads. So I disassemble this bolt and I give it a little bit of die, but to tap the thread of the frame, you must remove the engine, which is not difficult, however. This operation allows me to understand why I screwed askew: the holes in the intermediate plate are ill-adjusted to the threaded holes in the chassis, so it is not really possible to do this correctly. While I am at it, I therefore dismantle the plate and play the file until a satisfactory result (knowing that I will have to unscrew these bolts during belt changes later).
Also note a loose weld at the back of the discharge chute: I will be forced to subject it to the same operation as on its front part: a weld in good and due form. A small crack also at the front chute, engine side and next to the reinforcement gusset, but nothing to worry about ... 8) The Chinese have not applied themselves too much on this chapter ... : roll:

A laughable tip for those who wish to replace their box hedge with a similar plant, but which does not attract the European moth: the Lonicera nitida is a good candidate. Of course, it is easy to cut it conventionally, but another solution is to grind a good quantity and spread it on the ground: a small proportion (but which represents a lot of plants in absolute value) will spontaneously cut in the middle mulching, so there is nothing to do! : Wink:
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Re: What mill to produce BRF?




by guibnd » 02/06/18, 15:27

Ahmed wrote:Small "sites" of grinding here and there, with friends or neighbors (at one of the latter, a large quantity of branches of hazelnut and birch trees (=> 5 m3 of crushed material).
Then, a huge pile of branches resulting from the slaughter of a large American walnut: it is carried out in several sequences, because it is necessary to alternate the release of the logs and what must be crushed; the ground material is sprayed directly under a common walnut (albeit royal! * :D ) with the cap opening to the maximum and several successive projection angles in order to obtain a summary spreading. I still have several to drop, but the others will wait until next fall, because it is rather open-ended. All the same, I then found the time to crush the branches of a lime tree cut for "some time" (for those who follow!), As well as acacia branches. In sight, a bunch of freshly cut hazel and cedar branches, of reasonable size and, more worryingly, a huge pile of various branches resulting from a make-up pruning at a friend's house: wood cut in January and which I hope not too dry ...

* It's a word game for connoisseurs! : Wink:

* you really are a prince to give back its letters of nobility to the royal walnut :D

I understand that you spread the crushed walnut under another walnut. personally, I got into the habit of not putting the ground material of a tree under the same species. for example, I'm going to put apple mulch under a plum tree or ornamental shrub ... maybe with the concern of not transmitting parasites and diseases in the same species : Idea: what do you think ?
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Twandering with clayey and fertile wheat, full of water in winter, cold in spring, crushed and cracked in summer,
but that was before the Didite ...
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Re: What mill to produce BRF?




by guibnd » 02/06/18, 15:41

Ahmed wrote:The pile of dry branches was swallowed, at least for the not too large stems, but it was quite painful: a lot of noise and unpleasant vibrations transmitted to the hands ... :frown: Hazel and linden trees, on the other hand, did not cause this kind of concern.

I have the same concern when I don't have time to crush the branches I have just pruned!
It is painful these jolts in the hands, the dry hard wood slaps in the machine ...
some woods like apple, cherry, hawthorn ... even green, are hard to grind. I adooooooore grind elderberry : Mrgreen:
I have the viking GE355 which suits me well, it sometimes stuffs when I want to pass things like clematis but it opens easily ...
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Twandering with clayey and fertile wheat, full of water in winter, cold in spring, crushed and cracked in summer,
but that was before the Didite ...

 


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