Fuel savings with acetone?

[France]

Don't worry, my engine is still manufactured in 2012, only the shape of the intake and the fuel pressure in the boom have changed.

By cons for ethanol I agree. No such thing in my tank. It can turn out very well, but formic / acetic acid + poor load mixture

[Flytox]

Keep the semi-synthetic, making an up-grade in synthetic is more aggressive for certain engine seals and can shoot them in unfavorable cases.

So change fluidity IF NECESSARY, but not type.

My experience has no statistical value, but I have upgraded in summary all my cars for 20 years, all used with good mileage (except 309 new) (309 petrol, a Visa petrol, a Jetta petrol, and two R19 diesel) without any problems.

In addition, the R19 which had only 150000 km even reduced its oil consumption! (it went from maxi to Mini between 2 oil changes recommended by Renault and since in summary, there is a good cm of oil above the mini).

By cons to change the viscosity: The other day we drain the tractor mower with a Ze Stratttonne Bricks (8 hp?) Which works very well. Not the oil recommended nearby .... so the `` semi synthetic '' oil of the car is used (ref?).

Restart, .... Result the engine slams as if it had sunk a rod! We stop immediately and get the recommended oil (much thicker). We drain again ... on restart the noise is perfectly normal!

The moral of this story is that by tampering with viscosity we can make bullshit ....

[Flytox]

By cons for ethanol I agree. No such thing in my tank. It can turn out very well, but formic / acetic acid + mixture poor in load

Can you explain what you are doing ?????

[Obamot]

Keep the semi-synthetic, making an up-grade in synthetic is more aggressive for certain engine seals and can shoot them in unfavorable cases.

So change fluidity IF NECESSARY, but not type.

My experience has no statistical value, but I have upgraded in summary all my cars for 20 years, all used with good mileage (except 309 new) (309 petrol, a Visa petrol, a Jetta petrol, and two R19 diesel) without any problems.

In addition, the R19 which had only 150000 km even reduced its oil consumption! (it went from maxi to Mini between 2 oil changes recommended by Renault and since in summary, there is a good cm of oil above the mini).

By cons to change the viscosity: The other day we drain the tractor mower with a Ze Stratttonne Bricks (8 hp?) Which works very well. Not the oil recommended nearby .... so the `` semi synthetic '' oil of the car is used (ref?).

Restart, .... Result the engine slams as if it had sunk a rod! We stop immediately and get the recommended oil (much thicker). We drain again ... on restart the noise is perfectly normal!

The moral of this story is that by tampering with viscosity we can make bullshit ....

Yes, all that you do well to remember for those who are not already aware, we forget it too easily, synthetic oil is a significant advance. But as you say, you should not generalize (get information from the manufacturer, before committing the irreparable ...)

By cons I would have liked that some give their opinion on the coup to put two-stroke synthetic directly in gasoline (0,5%) or half a liter per 100 liters of fuel, to extend the longevity , that's a point that interests me a lot.

[Flytox]

As a whole, there are some who still melt it. In F1 more than 20 years ago, he did too, otherwise they had problems with the injection pump (on the Cosworth V8).

[France]

By cons for ethanol I agree. No such thing in my tank. It can turn out very well, but formic / acetic acid + mixture poor in load

Can you explain what you are doing ?????

What do I do?


Otherwise what to avoid is to switch from an old engine that has had low-end mineral to a 100% ultra detergent synthesis, otherwise we take off all the deposits, if we have a filter it will be fine ... but if an engine without an oil filter, it can hurt.


And for the mower, what did the manufacturer recommend?
Monograde oil?

We can very well replace the monograde oil by a multigrade. Generally the clippers it is a very viscous oil, but generally eh.

[Flytox]

but formic / acetic acid + mixture poor in load

I don't understand why you are talking about formic or acetic acid and a low-charge mixture. You must have an idea.

Otherwise what to avoid is to switch from an old engine that has had low-end mineral to a 100% ultra detergent synthesis, otherwise we take off all the deposits, if we have a filter it will be fine ... but if an engine without an oil filter, it can hurt.

1. For example, the 2CVs used to very dirty Antar molygraphite oil might not appreciate the change to a detergent oil. (start to eat oil)

And for the mower, what did the manufacturer recommend?
Monograde oil?

We can very well replace the monograde oil by a multigrade. Generally the clippers it is a very viscous oil, but generally eh.

Not the mower on hand (160 km) to look at the labels, but when emptying, reading it did not correspond at all to the oil in the car. On my Honda mower, no problem with the synthesis (of Diesel)

[France]

but formic / acetic acid + mixture poor in load

I don't understand why you are talking about formic or acetic acid and a low-charge mixture. You must have an idea.

Oh that.

Well there is always a little water in the tank with condensation, air humidity, possible infiltration, etc ...

If you put ethanol (ethanol likes water in addition and tends to absorb moisture in the air ...), there is a reaction which produces formic acid, etc. .. and acid in an engine, we don't really want it.
Especially if the engine is not original flexfuel, therefore no nitrided valves, no treated valve seats, or graphite pistons. And you also have to reduce the oil change interval because of these acids which are found in engine oil.

And with ethanol, on some non-flexfuel cars, it already starts less well in cold weather ... but especially at full load (accelerated to 100%), the calculator does not enrich enough, and we run too poor, so hot spot, and may damage the valves, or puncture the piston (s).

There are examples if we do research on google.

[Other]

Hello

I strongly advise against it (as it was strongly advised against by the teachers of a mechanical school ...).

They even advised me to stay in cheap basic mineral oil, but to change oil more often ... I ended up opting for semi-synthetic, with the approval of the chief mechanic and the general representation of the brand ... It didn't have too many km yet ...

Keep the semi-synthetic, making an up-grade in synthetic is more aggressive for certain engine seals and can shoot them in unfavorable cases.

So change fluidity IF NECESSARY, but not type.

.

In aviation synthetic oil is forbidden in piston engines.
As these engines have a high oil consumption, that is to say 1litres in 4 hours, see more, the synthetic oil has more dificulty to burn on the porcelains of the candles.
I use Aeroshell 20w50 semi synthetic in winter and summer I return to the mongrade Aero shell 100 plus.
Those who tested 100% synthetic had problems the additives are centrifuged in the hollow crankshaft the pink metal parts piston pin rocker pin undergo rapid wear. The spy seals behind the propeller do not appreciate these oils.
As for the fuel normally it is avgas 100 LL
100 low leed, but as we frequent wild places we sometimes stock up with super unleaded, to avoid problems with valve guides and valve seats (which lacks lead) we add a little oil to the fuel (Marvel oil).

Andre

[Obamot]

Hello

I strongly advise against it (as it was strongly advised against by the teachers of a mechanical school ...).

They even advised me to stay in cheap basic mineral oil, but to change oil more often ... I ended up opting for semi-synthetic, with the approval of the chief mechanic and the general representation of the brand ... It didn't have too many km yet ...

Keep the semi-synthetic, making an up-grade in synthetic is more aggressive for certain engine seals and can shoot them in unfavorable cases.

So change fluidity IF NECESSARY, but not type.

.

In aviation synthetic oil is forbidden in piston engines.
As these engines have a high oil consumption, that is to say 1litres in 4 hours, see more, the synthetic oil has more dificulty to burn on the porcelains of the candles.
I use Aeroshell 20w50 semi synthetic in winter and summer I return to the mongrade Aero shell 100 plus.
Those who tested 100% synthetic had problems the additives are centrifuged in the hollow crankshaft the pink metal parts piston pin rocker pin undergo rapid wear. The spy seals behind the propeller do not appreciate these oils.
As for the fuel normally it is avgas 100 LL
100 low leed, but as we frequent wild places we sometimes stock up with super unleaded, to avoid problems with valve guides and valve seats (which lacks lead) we add a little oil to the fuel (Marvel oil).

Andre

Excellent, thank you for confirming, this is very useful.

Marvel is not a convenience store product but a high-flying product ...
(this is the case to say ... ^^)

I guess this is it:
http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/index.php/site/mat/

By the way, how much marvel oil, add yourself (just to get an idea ... it's not specified on their site.)


And I like the anecdote:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marvel_Mystery_Oil