An octagonal passive house in straw bales

Construction of natural or ecological habitat: plans, design, advice, expertise, materials, geobiology ... House, construction, heating, insulation: you have just received one or more quotes. Can't choose? State your problem here and we will advise you on the right choice! Help in reading DPE or environmental energy diagnostics. Help with the purchase or sale of real estate.
Christophe
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by Christophe » 18/09/08, 23:23

Yes but you can always contact the author: https://www.econologie.com/forums/membre5237.html
by clicking on the email icon (or MP)
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johnix
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by johnix » 22/09/08, 19:48

BIOMAN44 wrote:
johnix wrote:At the same time, a back-up on a passive house should rather be of the "instantaneous" type than "inertia"; and an active solar system only makes sense if it allows a significant phase shift (inter-season storage), which is too complicated and expensive for a small backup.

Can you explain in detail your 2 points of view quoted above?


An extra on a passive house should rather be of the "instant" type than "at intertie"

A passive house by construction has no "cold spots" in the walls (thermal bridges ...) and thus avoids the convection and separation of masses of air "hot" at the top and "cold" at the bottom. Suddenly, the thermal differences between the different walls and the air must remain low.

A stove mass, when it radiates a higher temperature, and therefore increases these differences and promotes convection.

In addition, a passive house, due to its low thermal loss, allows an instantaneous heating of the air without rising too high in temperature, thus without introducing the usual defects of the convectors or fan-convectors (dry air, warmer than the walls ...)

Finally, a fan coil is much cheaper than a mass stove.

An active solar system only makes sense if it allows a significant phase shift

A passive house is necessarily bioclimatic, and therefore benefits from "passive" solar heating (south veranda ...) which allows the house to be heated when there is sunlight (roughly speaking). If there is no sun for a week, the temperature of the house will drop, and it will then be necessary to provide additional heating.

If the auxiliary heating is of the "solar" type, then it must be able to restore heat after more than a week without sun, otherwise it comes in redundancy with respect to passive solar. This type of system exists, but it is often cumbersome and complex to regulate (inertia well on wall-waterspout with forced air circulation ...) and / or expensive (solar storage floor with very large tank).

But the whole idea of ​​the passive house is to invest in insulation to avoid investing in heating.

The ecological heating is super sexy, but if we did its job well, it becomes downright useless - it's even better, right?
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denis
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by denis » 02/10/09, 22:29

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White would not exist without the dark, but anyway!


http://maison-en-paille.blogspot.fr/
parfaitelumiere
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by parfaitelumiere » 03/10/09, 09:27

you used the wood for the glass amounts of the canopy, that's fine, it avoids losing energy by the amounts of windows.
it is also the idea that I had retained.
It heats with triple glazing?
I thought that in the south it was not necessary to put triple glazing.
By cons what surprises me is that there are other openings ?!
Why have made other openings?
I told myself that the ideal way to bring light to the north without losing heat was to use a well with a lens on the roof, and make the stainless steel well, with an IR filter that you put in. been to turn the heat, and that you take off in the winter to bring the heat together with the light.
For the glazing of the south I thought of external shutters in the form of venetian blind, with the variable angle according to the season, it is shading in summer, full sun in winter, and shutter for the night.
On my idea however I had retained only the south glazing, mounted a little as you did, between the beams that would be grooved, with windows as large as possible, but double glazing.
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Sap can!

 


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