André why do not you put your pictures on the forum ?
I know it's not very practical.
In any case, I would like to see them ...
What do you think of inertia stoves? :
http://www.lamaisonenpaille.com/po%EAles/poele-accueil.htm
http://www.tigchelkachels.com/
Closed fireplace and explosion: attention
- Misterloxo
- Éconologue good!
- posts: 480
- Registration: 10/02/03, 15:28
- x 1
Hello,
It's very simple I try several times but it does not work, it does not tempt me to make the changes to enter on the forumI have two computers and the network no longer works, the scanner and on the other, and each time I have to transfer the images .... too long
Those who gave me their e-mail I sent them, Rabbit, Schutt,
In the old forum all these photos were in a post
Save the plan and the explanation, but it is all written by hand it should be transcribed in (French of France) and if posible without mistakes! The way I express myself and the mistakes make me diffuse little, it gives me more time to experiment, each one his role, there are communicators, and do-it-yourselfers and rarely both sets ...
In terms of building a similar pile of this size
it takes a decent guy and with ironworking equipment
big welding, it is very heavy, it does not pass through a standard door, I finished assembling it in the house so it is part of the house.
Andre
It's very simple I try several times but it does not work, it does not tempt me to make the changes to enter on the forumI have two computers and the network no longer works, the scanner and on the other, and each time I have to transfer the images .... too long
Those who gave me their e-mail I sent them, Rabbit, Schutt,
In the old forum all these photos were in a post
Save the plan and the explanation, but it is all written by hand it should be transcribed in (French of France) and if posible without mistakes! The way I express myself and the mistakes make me diffuse little, it gives me more time to experiment, each one his role, there are communicators, and do-it-yourselfers and rarely both sets ...
In terms of building a similar pile of this size
it takes a decent guy and with ironworking equipment
big welding, it is very heavy, it does not pass through a standard door, I finished assembling it in the house so it is part of the house.
Andre
0 x
- Philippe Schutt
- Econologue expert
- posts: 1611
- Registration: 25/12/05, 18:03
- Location: Alsace
- x 33
link
I realize that yahoo has reduced the quality of the images to the point that André's texts are no longer readable.
So I transferred them to a better album manager:
http://my.opera.com/cphischu/albums/show.dml?id=25222
And this time, I checked that the resolution was kept!
With my apologies for the failure
So I transferred them to a better album manager:
http://my.opera.com/cphischu/albums/show.dml?id=25222
And this time, I checked that the resolution was kept!
With my apologies for the failure
0 x
- Misterloxo
- Éconologue good!
- posts: 480
- Registration: 10/02/03, 15:28
- x 1
-
- I learn econologic
- posts: 16
- Registration: 19/12/05, 15:46
- Location: Quincy (expensive)
wood drying and tips
Hello.
I warm with a boiler mixed wood / oil (oil is still not in use since 15ans !!!) The wood side is reverse combustion.
for wood, I mainly use the oak head.
I stok it outside without covering it, it allows the wood to get rid of part of the tannin, (source of bistre and soot), under the effect of the "leaching" of the rain. I try to have about 3 years in advance, I cut it in 50 in the summer, at a time when it does not rain, so that it coasts dry outside.
moreover, (I have it from a chimney installer) I keep the peelings of potatoes that I dry on my boiler, and I put a handful of them from time to time in them. this has the effect of disintegrating the soot, which falls in dust when I was my boiler (if I do not put it, it has earlier tedance to enter chwing gum.)
I also have an insert for the seasons, and to clean the glass, I use newspaper that I put in a ball, I dip it in water (just the time to moisten it), then I go on the ash, and I rub with that. it is very effective, it does not mock the glass, and it is not aggressive for frames as products, more is ecologist.
ps: to heat 210 m² plus the basement (not heated, but the boiler (isolated) is there, and the heating pipes are not insulated), I need about 25 steres of wood per year (it also makes hot water while the heating works, during the summer, I have a cumulus, I also have a contract edf "EJP")
what do you think of this consumption?
does anyone know about reverse combustion boilers or 1m logs?
please
I warm with a boiler mixed wood / oil (oil is still not in use since 15ans !!!) The wood side is reverse combustion.
for wood, I mainly use the oak head.
I stok it outside without covering it, it allows the wood to get rid of part of the tannin, (source of bistre and soot), under the effect of the "leaching" of the rain. I try to have about 3 years in advance, I cut it in 50 in the summer, at a time when it does not rain, so that it coasts dry outside.
moreover, (I have it from a chimney installer) I keep the peelings of potatoes that I dry on my boiler, and I put a handful of them from time to time in them. this has the effect of disintegrating the soot, which falls in dust when I was my boiler (if I do not put it, it has earlier tedance to enter chwing gum.)
I also have an insert for the seasons, and to clean the glass, I use newspaper that I put in a ball, I dip it in water (just the time to moisten it), then I go on the ash, and I rub with that. it is very effective, it does not mock the glass, and it is not aggressive for frames as products, more is ecologist.
ps: to heat 210 m² plus the basement (not heated, but the boiler (isolated) is there, and the heating pipes are not insulated), I need about 25 steres of wood per year (it also makes hot water while the heating works, during the summer, I have a cumulus, I also have a contract edf "EJP")
what do you think of this consumption?
does anyone know about reverse combustion boilers or 1m logs?
please
0 x
-
- x 17
Re: drying the wood and tips
charendome wrote: [...]
ps: to heat 210 m² plus the basement (not heated, but the boiler (isolated) is there, and the heating pipes are not insulated), I need about 25 steres of wood per year (it also makes hot water while the heating works, during the summer, I have a cumulus, I also have a contract edf "EJP")
what do you think of this consumption?
[...]
I consume between 10 and 12 wood steres per year depending on the vigor of winters (I only heat wood, a classic size house).
My idea was to realize this system but the time and the means I miss. And since I put the forced air ventilation system in place (see https://www.econologie.com/forums/ameliorati ... t1270.html ), the need for heating has dropped dramatically, and this year I should consume less than 12 steres even with a cold winter
0 x
hi charendome!
a lot of peels, this is to remember!
For me the most beautiful ducts, requiring only a miserable stroke of hedgehog before winter, are those tubed stainless steel pipes 304 inside the chimney in bushel.
With us, the problem is the wind from the south that blows sometimes and especially in April. The smoke is then folded in the conduit, the worst being those who have a fuel stove: you have to evacuate the house!
So some put an H at the top of the fireplace, I put an aspiromatic and raised the conduit (30cm above the feast) and it works of thunder. The draw is even very important hence the interest of having a stove well caulked to control the flame.
Your mixed boiler has the advantage of being able to also burn oil to heat a little bit if you miss a whole day or even several days and not to go into a house that looks like an "ice cube". Now we can even order the ignition of the boiler a few hours before arriving just by phone!
For your oak, I know from experience, unlike the chestnut for example, it must be left some time to rain after cutting. This "draining" is essential for this type of gasoline.
When I finish cutting my wood at the end of the winter, it receives all the rains of spring and begins to dry during all the summer period with the warm temperatures that we have at home.
In the fall, before the rains of October 15, I split it and I enter it or I put a tarpaulin if I have no place and I burn 1 year after (so I have 2 wood years of dry).
I think it's important to cover your wood before burning it, everyone I know is doing this.
For inter season, I prefer the stove which is much cheaper than the inserts. Today the technology in this area has evolved a lot and for the vision of fire there are even "stoves-fireplaces" to enjoy the vision of fire. At the energy level and consumption, the stove is the best for wood heating.
You talk about 25 stere / year which is about 12 tons. For a boiler and 210m2 living in addition to the hot water it produces throughout the year; I find that quite reasonable. In low mountains, I know people who spent 20 25 tons of wood in the winter! ... 40 to 50 stereos.
If you have time to make your wood in winter and especially that you have interesting trees to cut; all the better!
At home, sometimes we come across such "shabby" cuts, or green oak that has grown in tufted (regrowth) style baguette bread on steep slopes where you have to drag the wood on 100m to the tractor and more far from home ... let it go!
With the rise of wood heating, the cuts have multiplied especially to make buseness at the expense of forests.
The wood will be rare if it continues like that
a lot of peels, this is to remember!
For me the most beautiful ducts, requiring only a miserable stroke of hedgehog before winter, are those tubed stainless steel pipes 304 inside the chimney in bushel.
With us, the problem is the wind from the south that blows sometimes and especially in April. The smoke is then folded in the conduit, the worst being those who have a fuel stove: you have to evacuate the house!
So some put an H at the top of the fireplace, I put an aspiromatic and raised the conduit (30cm above the feast) and it works of thunder. The draw is even very important hence the interest of having a stove well caulked to control the flame.
Your mixed boiler has the advantage of being able to also burn oil to heat a little bit if you miss a whole day or even several days and not to go into a house that looks like an "ice cube". Now we can even order the ignition of the boiler a few hours before arriving just by phone!
For your oak, I know from experience, unlike the chestnut for example, it must be left some time to rain after cutting. This "draining" is essential for this type of gasoline.
When I finish cutting my wood at the end of the winter, it receives all the rains of spring and begins to dry during all the summer period with the warm temperatures that we have at home.
In the fall, before the rains of October 15, I split it and I enter it or I put a tarpaulin if I have no place and I burn 1 year after (so I have 2 wood years of dry).
I think it's important to cover your wood before burning it, everyone I know is doing this.
For inter season, I prefer the stove which is much cheaper than the inserts. Today the technology in this area has evolved a lot and for the vision of fire there are even "stoves-fireplaces" to enjoy the vision of fire. At the energy level and consumption, the stove is the best for wood heating.
You talk about 25 stere / year which is about 12 tons. For a boiler and 210m2 living in addition to the hot water it produces throughout the year; I find that quite reasonable. In low mountains, I know people who spent 20 25 tons of wood in the winter! ... 40 to 50 stereos.
If you have time to make your wood in winter and especially that you have interesting trees to cut; all the better!
At home, sometimes we come across such "shabby" cuts, or green oak that has grown in tufted (regrowth) style baguette bread on steep slopes where you have to drag the wood on 100m to the tractor and more far from home ... let it go!
With the rise of wood heating, the cuts have multiplied especially to make buseness at the expense of forests.
The wood will be rare if it continues like that
0 x
The number of molecules in a drop of water is equal to the number of drop that contains the Black Sea!
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