hi Zac
0,3-0,4L with a water carb how do you get it?
Suzuki Samurai 1.9 TD
Hello
with a 10mm gurtner (102 pijo cadie tobec), I turn the bushel to the needle I put the "hat" back on, I plug the choke zipper with silicone and I hang on the pantone no easier.
If I see that I consume too much (large engine, strong vacuum), as the sprinklers are not found on my island I reduce the sprinkler by putting copper wires there; there is only to strip 3cm of extension
@+
with a 10mm gurtner (102 pijo cadie tobec), I turn the bushel to the needle I put the "hat" back on, I plug the choke zipper with silicone and I hang on the pantone no easier.
If I see that I consume too much (large engine, strong vacuum), as the sprinklers are not found on my island I reduce the sprinkler by putting copper wires there; there is only to strip 3cm of extension
@+
0 x
Said the zebra, freeman (endangered breed)
This is not because I am con I try not to do smart things.
This is not because I am con I try not to do smart things.
Ok Zac.
But I did this on my mini bike at the time and the vacuum created in the carburetor when it was plugged sucked up water in liquid form.
I had put a transparent tube between the inlet of the reactor and the water carburetor to see.
Your mob carburetor is completely blocked at the air inlet by the silicone or there remains the small hole of 2 or 3mm?
I had also tried with a fridge regulator and a vacuum cleaner for the test and it was the same.
Either no spraying because the regulator was too closed, or suction of water in liquid form.
PS: I put a new, clearer video on the water column in my message on page 1
But I did this on my mini bike at the time and the vacuum created in the carburetor when it was plugged sucked up water in liquid form.
I had put a transparent tube between the inlet of the reactor and the water carburetor to see.
Your mob carburetor is completely blocked at the air inlet by the silicone or there remains the small hole of 2 or 3mm?
I had also tried with a fridge regulator and a vacuum cleaner for the test and it was the same.
Either no spraying because the regulator was too closed, or suction of water in liquid form.
PS: I put a new, clearer video on the water column in my message on page 1
0 x
hello Zac
With a 12 or 14 mm rod and a 1mm air gap this is equivalent to an 8mm duct passage, it doesn't look a bit big as a carburetor, it's like putting a carburetor bigger than the intake manifold duct of an engine.
But I understand your system well, you work in low vacuum with the carburetor venturi, so to compensate for this you increased the nozzle, no needle. use a similar method, I plant a small stainless steel wire which (I use to bar the screws in aviation) it is enough to push it more or less deeply in the cigleur to obtain the good flow. (you can also crush the wire with oval hammer is less corky than round)
The way you use allows more air to enter the reactor and I think it's a good thing you are sure to only send air below the saturation point, in my case test with a carburetor 3,2mm it sprays well, but it lacks a certain volume of air to dilute this humidity.
for water consumption I do not arrive quite with your values it is 0,7 liters although it is necessary I prove it more with more precision, my engine is a 3 liters turbo diesel.
What I noticed is when I make him drink more water 2 liters per hour the engine becomes more vigorous, and more greedy, maybe also because when starting I ask him more.
What I find that this is bubbler carburetor, or other, for the economic dosage the range is narrow and much more than I thought it ... if all the panton fitters told us about the tests, we could manage to make a curve, but doing precise tests and measurements of the water consumed requires hours of driving.
Currently the water consumption values do not stick with tractors and cars, it remains to be seen whether the amount of water swallowed by a diesel is proportional to the air swallowed or to the fuel burned?
or both ..
In my first posts this question was worrying
the ideal water / air ratio for the reactor?
the ideal gas panton water doping ratio for the engine?
Andre
With a 12 or 14 mm rod and a 1mm air gap this is equivalent to an 8mm duct passage, it doesn't look a bit big as a carburetor, it's like putting a carburetor bigger than the intake manifold duct of an engine.
But I understand your system well, you work in low vacuum with the carburetor venturi, so to compensate for this you increased the nozzle, no needle. use a similar method, I plant a small stainless steel wire which (I use to bar the screws in aviation) it is enough to push it more or less deeply in the cigleur to obtain the good flow. (you can also crush the wire with oval hammer is less corky than round)
The way you use allows more air to enter the reactor and I think it's a good thing you are sure to only send air below the saturation point, in my case test with a carburetor 3,2mm it sprays well, but it lacks a certain volume of air to dilute this humidity.
for water consumption I do not arrive quite with your values it is 0,7 liters although it is necessary I prove it more with more precision, my engine is a 3 liters turbo diesel.
What I noticed is when I make him drink more water 2 liters per hour the engine becomes more vigorous, and more greedy, maybe also because when starting I ask him more.
What I find that this is bubbler carburetor, or other, for the economic dosage the range is narrow and much more than I thought it ... if all the panton fitters told us about the tests, we could manage to make a curve, but doing precise tests and measurements of the water consumed requires hours of driving.
Currently the water consumption values do not stick with tractors and cars, it remains to be seen whether the amount of water swallowed by a diesel is proportional to the air swallowed or to the fuel burned?
or both ..
In my first posts this question was worrying
the ideal water / air ratio for the reactor?
the ideal gas panton water doping ratio for the engine?
Andre
0 x
Andre wrote:hello Zac
With a 12 or 14 mm rod and a 1mm air gap this is equivalent to an 8mm duct passage, it doesn't look a bit big as a carburetor, it's like putting a carburetor bigger than the intake manifold duct of an engine.
for water consumption I do not arrive quite with your values it is 0,7 liters although it is necessary I prove it more with more precision, my engine is a 3 liters turbo diesel.
What I noticed is when I make him drink more water 2 liters per hour the engine becomes more vigorous, and more greedy, maybe also because when starting I ask him more.
What I find that this is bubbler carburetor, or other, for the economic dosage the range is narrow and much more than I thought it ... if all the panton fitters told us about the tests, we could manage to make a curve, but doing precise tests and measurements of the water consumed requires hours of driving.
Currently the water consumption values do not stick with tractors and cars, it remains to be seen whether the amount of water swallowed by a diesel is proportional to the air swallowed or to the fuel burned?
or both ..
In my first posts this question was worrying
the ideal water / air ratio for the reactor?
the ideal gas panton water doping ratio for the engine?
Andre
Hello
you have 0.7 liter on a 3litres, I have 0.4 on a 2litres; basically we find the same ratio.
this is what I always find on variable speed engines; on the other hand on GE which runs at constant speed, the economy of gas oil is better but the water consumption is around 0.8 liter of water per liter of displacement is 4x more. Why I don't know, I see that is all!
@+
0 x
Said the zebra, freeman (endangered breed)
This is not because I am con I try not to do smart things.
This is not because I am con I try not to do smart things.
zac wrote:finally pitmix you didn't understand anything the air intake is just limited by the air filyre. i plug only the holes which are useless!
@+
But if we see I understand everything
I wanted to be sure that there is no ambiguity.
It confirms my little experiences with 2 balls. If there is no air there is no suction spraying.
It's logic.
And I was right not to want to let go of the water carburetor because, what I had done, had to be good.
150mm rod with 1,5mm carburetor iron with 4mm air nozzle. On the other hand, the water consumption rose to 1L / H because I had a pressure of 4m of water column in the reactor and that the orifice for the passage of water had to be too big.
0 x
Hello everyone. First assessment 415 km traveled 32l38 or 7.8 to 100km (consumption unchanged) 0.5l of rainwater for 100km. I removed the reactor it was dry and covered with a thin gray layer (reactor in stainless steel) dm14.I have pressure measurements (transparent hose dm 12.connected to a 1/2 connection, the other end plunging into a jar of water, I am not counting round 
I give the accelerator values at the bottom about 1 or 2 seconds. Air inlet bubbler = 20cm, venturi outlet (without air filter) = 35cm, reactor inlet (reactor in place) = 40cm, without the air filter reactor mounted = 45cm. Do you think these measures are correct? Does the engine need time to adapt? by how much?. Will I have a better result with a reactor of a dm of 15mm?. That is a lot of questions 
Thanks in advance A + ricket
I give the accelerator values at the bottom about 1 or 2 seconds. Air inlet bubbler = 20cm, venturi outlet (without air filter) = 35cm, reactor inlet (reactor in place) = 40cm, without the air filter reactor mounted = 45cm. Do you think these measures are correct? Does the engine need time to adapt? by how much?. Will I have a better result with a reactor of a dm of 15mm?. That is a lot of questions Thanks in advance A + ricket
0 x
Hello Ricket 79
this test under what condition? a long journey or an accumulation of starting and driving in town?
small trips and city it does not give good results and even sometimes no results.
At the beginning the first 80 liters of fuel eaten did not notice that little difference, especially if the reactor did not heat sufficiently, there is even more black soot which comes off in the exhaust, then it stabilizes,
The vacuum measurement in the bubbler will always be related to the water level, that which in the venturi interests us more, the other measurements only confirm the pressure drops of the reactor.
For the air gap it is 1 mm on each side of the rod, a little more will not disturb the operation.
Make sure you have heat in the reactor, for that you have to force the engine. The stainless steel rod becomes yellow and brown over time when it has heated.
As for depressions you are in the figures, although from one assembly to another there are variations.
Andre
this test under what condition? a long journey or an accumulation of starting and driving in town?
small trips and city it does not give good results and even sometimes no results.
At the beginning the first 80 liters of fuel eaten did not notice that little difference, especially if the reactor did not heat sufficiently, there is even more black soot which comes off in the exhaust, then it stabilizes,
The vacuum measurement in the bubbler will always be related to the water level, that which in the venturi interests us more, the other measurements only confirm the pressure drops of the reactor.
For the air gap it is 1 mm on each side of the rod, a little more will not disturb the operation.
Make sure you have heat in the reactor, for that you have to force the engine. The stainless steel rod becomes yellow and brown over time when it has heated.
As for depressions you are in the figures, although from one assembly to another there are variations.
Andre
0 x
Hi ricket
I noticed the same things as André describes. That is to say The stem becomes yellow and or bluish at the end of the stem on the outlet side, then after several hundred kilometers it becomes entirely brown (in my case). The gray film you have is a deposit due to water. Do you observe a heating point when you clean the rod?
I tested with an iron between 1,5mm on each side of the rod and less than 1mm.
We all have substantially the same set-ups and we observe the same phenomena. It remains to be seen what makes one mount to another work or not.
The main difference between my mounting and yours is this fact at the suction level. But it's normal since you have a Diesel while me it was a gasoline.
So nothing comparable at this level.
Can you take temperature measurements?
I noticed the same things as André describes. That is to say The stem becomes yellow and or bluish at the end of the stem on the outlet side, then after several hundred kilometers it becomes entirely brown (in my case). The gray film you have is a deposit due to water. Do you observe a heating point when you clean the rod?
I tested with an iron between 1,5mm on each side of the rod and less than 1mm.
We all have substantially the same set-ups and we observe the same phenomena. It remains to be seen what makes one mount to another work or not.
The main difference between my mounting and yours is this fact at the suction level. But it's normal since you have a Diesel while me it was a gasoline.
So nothing comparable at this level.
Can you take temperature measurements?
0 x
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