Pantone engine on Citroën Xantia 1.9L TD

[PITMIX]

Thank you André I'm stupid I'll have to think about it (report to my job).
I will try as soon as I have time. I know I have a leak at the entrance of the reactor that must make me a loss. I noticed it by putting the reactor under pressure two weeks ago. But what is certain is that I have no problem at low speed since my new system with the air solenoid valve causes a huge difference if I engage it to slow down. If I had a strong air intake there will be no difference.
Otherwise it's just my probe that kidding. It is thermocouple wire. I believe that if the weld loose between the two son it causes a reading error. At the beginning I had plugged the wires upside down and the more I heated the probe the lower the temperature went down
Personally I can not do without my thermometer output reactor because it tells me how my reactor works. If there is water passing, air or nothing.

[Other]

hello Pitmix
For the thermocouple, I strip the two wires I twist them and I simply weld them with a drop of silver solder on the copper tube, the butter is negligible compared to a thermocouple solder to the tig, (test the in boiling water)
If you operate with a carburetor it is necessary to have this indication, but with a bubbler it is facutative.
For the small escape it is not acause that it does not work well, it's more because of the suckingous the pappillon high speed it depends on the proximity of the pappillon with your entry
in the collector, it is a question of fluid flow.
At full power the input would pant better ahead of the carburetor in a depression of the duct.

Andre

[PITMIX]

For my probe I had probed it with tin. With the heat she let go. I redid it to money is better. But what causes a drop in the temperature indication when heating the probe is only when connecting the wires upside down on the thermometer. Those who use a multimeter instead of a thermometer should pay attention to this.
I had tested it in boiling water the first time it was right.
For the small leak is the elbow that I put just after the water carburetor leaking at the weld on the tube reactor. I must take it back because it is porous. I do not think it's very important.

[PITMIX]

Hi Muzzo you do not give any more news of your system.
I guess you always have the same point.
I reviewed the photo of your reactor and today I installed a tube like you between the water carburetor and the reactor. Except that in my case there is a bend before entering the reactor which is very wide it makes a loop at 180 °. I feel like it's better. Do you do what André said at the beginning?
Put an aquarium foam in a box to avoid drops of water.

[muzo_31]

Hi everybody !

It's nice to think of me. I miss a lot of time right now .... As I look to create my box (no pantones; o)) I eat a lot of time ...

And there is the little family ... The youngest starts talking. Yesterday, I preferred to spend my free time taking them on a bike.

So I always roll in the same conditions, I did not even have time to disassemble and see if I have a little the same things as you (black soot, output tube faded reactor, measurement of depression ... .)

If I had time, I wonder if I would not make a bubbler ...
I also have the most imediate track of the needle point of all stainless steel model (it seems that MVVS has them well, I have not verified). I noticed that the correct setting is in an angular region of less than 1 / 4 turn on my crappy aquarium valve .... This fix difficulty alone would justify the random effect of the bazard.

I always keep 1 / 2 eye on your activities. Perseverence is good. I'll get back to it, no problemo.

[PITMIX]

OK no problem.
I even wonder how a father can find the time to do hacks as we do.
Champion guys
And then by bike at least you save money ...
For the small valve I feel on my side that if I close too much water is no longer sucked. Yet when we blow in the valve we feel that the air passes. There must be a design problem with my water carb. Me too I'm waiting for a model carbu reduced for engine OS I think (I know nothing ).
I ordered the 15 December and I still have nothing.
The supplier in question has the monopoly on this kind of parts so he does what he wants.
I'm still going to shake the fleas at my dealer.

[muzo_31]

Ah ... it's all about organization, sharing with the other half, discipline (rather than spending time tidying up, better be careful not to let everything go away).

In short, to get back to your carb, it should have asked me!
I know them well because I have an engine of this brand, and the friends in the field have some too. I will pass you the anecdotes related to the quality of these engines, yet Japanese.

You will receive (if it happens) a carbu body aluminum, bushel and contre_pointeau steel. You risk being pummeled by corrosion. Already, mine, malgres the mixture (20% oil, 80 methanol) it is all picked. I have to drown it in the fine oil before storing it. If you put in the fleet, the result will be certain.

Not against, you who is close to the capital, there are big shops there. Finding it should not be a problem. If you want to buy a carbide model in spite of the pb of corrosion to predict, send me an Email, and I'll get you a list of contacts.

One last thing for your info. Seeing the pictures of my editing, Andre had commented on the number of elbows too large. If you are inspired by what I did, try to correct this flaw!

[PITMIX]

Yes I made a loop at 180 ° before the entrance of the reactor instead of making an elbow at 90 ° C. It makes a bigger radius but also a softer curve and less pressure drop. Parcontre output reactor is a tee. So equivalent of an elbow to the equator.
For the carbu I spun 15 Euro of accompte. So I'm waiting calmly.
The carburetor to a nozzle 8mm it seems that it is the smallest available.
I chose a dealer 2km from home because there is an aerodrome just behind. It seems that it is one of the most important aerodromes by the frequentation for the planes of tourism. There is, of course, a lot for reduced model aircraft.

[Other]

Hello Pitmix
it's not credible you live in a prestigious capital where there are more inhabitants than all of Quebec and you can not find a model carburetor on the tablet?
I'm in a big village, the seller has all this on the shelves at sight, he even propose the small separate valve, I bought 2 magnets, one that I have not even tried.
For the size do not worry it works like a valve
Boiseau, so you can open it as you want.
The default body is aluminum and the steel needle is steel
it rust or get dirty easily with hot water!
with diesel it runs No 1 on the small engine.

It will be necessary to try the system of MMM it has good results with
there are many interesting aspects in its editing.


Andre

[PITMIX]

It is true I chose the ease by taking a supplier close to my home. But in Paris if I go up the weekend I need hours of cork and the week with my job I have no time. The system of mmm I like the water injection system is very simple.
He left you a mp?