Mercedes 300TD experimentation pantone

Edits and changes to engines, experiences, findings and ideas.
Other
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by Other » 22/05/07, 02:15

Hello
MichelM wrote:Hello
Probably otherwise it would already be HS the temperature must have already risen to more than 130 ° C. The description of the thermometer indicates that the cable withstands 220 ° C if it is the same.
: Arrow: IKEA

Michel


I keep my thermocouple in addition to compare, it's been 2 months that the probe is in operation, often I do not bind anything because it exceeds 130c but I know that it never goes up to 200c even when I roll in the carpet on several km
what is beautiful in these thermometers we can adjust an alarm threshold it goes well, the internal wires are long those that go to the buzzer from these two lines there is way to pilot a valve or something else to make a control and the tip set is easily adjustable, in addition it costs only $ 10, I bought 3 to be able to autopsy one ..

Andre
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MichelM
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by MichelM » 22/05/07, 09:49

Hello
RolCopter
I have to start my water pump and send long pulses to the injector (about 1s with an exposure time of 3s for example) from 110 ° C (4,509mV) and stop it at 90 ° C (3,682mV) so as not to drown the reactor, an OP amplifier (a 741?) In Schmitt trigger, 2 adjustable resistors to adjust the thresholds, if possible shielded cable to protect from interference, if necessary a small filter. The system would therefore be automatic as long as the air leaving the reactor was not at 110 ° C. there would be no water.
I do not know if I answer your question correctly?

Andre
Is it the same as the IKEA link? Fantast timer with € 6,99. : Arrow: IKEA
Yours is cheaper.

Michel
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PITMIX
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by PITMIX » 22/05/07, 19:43

Hi Michelm
In the end if you do like that you will have the same regulation as what I have on the Golf. Except that I haven't installed the thermostat yet.
The thermostat will be used mainly during cold start to make automatic switching on.
On the Golf I manually switch on the pump when the engine is hot (90 ° C) and then it turns on its own.
Even when the temperature drops too low to slow down at a red light, this is not a sign that the reactor is drowned.
The exposure time allows the water to evaporate.
I use a model variator (Conrad) to adjust the power of the pump as well as a timed bistable.
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MichelM
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by MichelM » 22/05/07, 21:53

hi Pitmix
At idle the temperature does not rise to these values. But the temperature is also a function of the air flow sucked in as André said and therefore of the vacuum. So there will probably never be a low speed water injection in my case.
For the pump (Conrad for model fuel) I only start it when necessary, it is not made to run continuously like a petrol injection pump which still has a limited lifespan. So it is supplied at the same time as the injector, it is not ideal. It should be started just a little before but it is not very important in my opinion, the dosage of water does not require very high accuracy.
For the control circuits with NE555 etc it will be necessary that you put yourself there Pitmix, it is easier than the welding of the exhaust pipes!
Michel
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by PITMIX » 23/05/07, 05:07

Yeah electronics, even if I don't know anything about it, I like it.
But for now I don't need to build a control circuit.
I will certainly adapt a thermostat on my system and nothing more.
I already have the equipment, but before that I must understand where the problem of the reactor outlet temperature comes from, which does not want to go up any more.
I visited "mmm", he gave me advice to solve the problem. I have to control all of this.
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RolCopter
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That answers my question, but I ask others




by RolCopter » 23/05/07, 16:34

Hello everyone

michelm on May 22


I do not know if I answer your question correctly?


That answers my question, but asks me others. On my two montages; a reactor behind the collector for the Renault no significant rise in temperature and no more on the VW which surprises me less because the reactor is in what was the "catalyst".

As for using a temperature threshold if need be for me no problem the temperature probe is connected to a regulator.
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Less consumption is good
Less pollution is already a great result
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PITMIX
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by PITMIX » 23/05/07, 19:18

Hello
What are your temperature values ​​on the WV RolCopter?
You may have the same problem as me.
I have not yet had time to consider the matter.
Je supposed that it is a problem of restriction of the too important conduit around the rod.
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MichelM
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by MichelM » 23/05/07, 21:11

good evening everyone
It's amazing that it doesn't heat up, despite my engine being under-exploited (and it's a diesel that heats up less), the presence of the turbo which causes a loss of around 100 ° C, I manage to get enough heat. Certainly the new engines have better efficiency and less waste heat but still there must be enough to heat a reactor and water ...?
You need a reactor well in the exhaust gas flow as close as possible to the engine, an exhaust restriction, suction for air + water vapor and it should work. If there is not enough circulation of humid air in the reactor it is certain that the temperature measurement will not be good, on mine if I remove the depression it seems to me that the temperature measurement drops to approximately 70 ° C (ambient temperature in the silicone tube at the reactor outlet) instead of 140 ° C when there is low pressure and no or very little water. Note however that the air is preheated before my reactor by another stainless steel tube in the exhaust under the car and that I isolated the exhaust around the reactor with high temperature rock wool and foil. 'aluminum.
Michel
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by Other » 24/05/07, 03:52

Hello

After 2 km cold start the reactor outlet exceeds 130c
it takes 4km for the engine water to reach its temperature

When I say 2 km there is one km at 50kmh in the city and the other km at 80kmh
I increased my small carburetor to 8 mm at the neck it passes more air is less water than with the small carburetors of 6mm neck,
with this assembly I am always above 130c if I let idle extended 5 minutes it goes down to 115c but not lower, for consumption I can not say (no meter) for water I find it a little weak I'm going to have to magnify the nozzle to have more, although I will test more at length like this.
I notice that the car performs better in the first 10km for
then become (ordinary) without measures we can say nothing ....
Is it the same as the IKEA link? Fantast timer with € 6,99. IKEA
Yours is cheaper.

Yes it is exactly the one it is easily disassembled
j, I put one on the 80c oil permanently, I work at 100% frying oil, but I consume more than diesel unlike the guys say on olomobile, as I don't want to overhaul my injectors, I walk Quite often with diesel fuel on short journeys and on long journeys, my feet are heavy and the engine has to force 100% oil. With a mixture of 50% diesel oil
consumption is almost identical to gasiol

Andre
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by PITMIX » 24/05/07, 06:51

Very surprising, especially since at the beginning my reactor gave temperatures identical to yours.
I'll tell you more when I find out where the problem is coming from.
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