Hello !
To answer your questions:
-does it 100% of your intake air flowing through the reactor?
No, it is a tapping, as you can see from the Crobard, only part of the air is sucked into the reactor, I'll aileurs to a restriction in the original tube, to force just over the suction in the reactor ...
-For T ° output racetur, 26 ° is super low ... there is a strong chance that almost all of your water vapor condenses at that temperature ... do you have a devised to conso your water?
I believe that this temperature is precisely related to the restriction (no suction suffisement through the reactor ...
-How Do you do to rewind a solenoid machine washing to operate in 12 V?
it interests many oily that I am, when you see the price of a new 12V solenoid (in 50 120 euros ....)
Well, it's simple, you unmount the coil of the solenoid washing machine, which is molded in plastic.
You measure its resistance with an ohm meter (mine was 3,42 Kohm) for a given power 5W.
Then you calculate the new Duty winding based 12V / 5W or R = U² / P, or in my case, 28,8 ohm.
Once you have this data, you must discard the old winding, and first, remove the plastic molding.
To do this, you need a small soldering iron, with which you open by melting the edges of the cylinder 2 of the reel, then an incision from one side to the other, until the copper, and you can at last free casting, which will inevitably with copper ...
In fact, it is possible to do the same with a hacksaw, the idea being to remove the mold, what!
Once the visible copper (it's very fine yarn, in my case, the 4 / 100mm), it is best to slash it with a good cutter, and remove plastic to the core.
Once this operation, you still something that looks a bit like a plastic sewing spool.
Makes the flanges of this neat mandrel (deburring), and then you place inside a large screw diameter suitable, you green on the other side by a nut.
The end of the screw pressed tightly in the chuck of a drill drive, positioned low speed, which will become made a makeshift winder.
It remains only to fix the end of the new thread on one edge of the mandrel, and then wind the thread by making the move from left to right almost regularly, until completely filled.
The formula for the resistivity = RS / rho gives you the length of thread to be wound according to the desired Duty and the tone wire section.
In my case, I had a 0,26mm bobinau wire of diameter, it gave about 90 28,8 m to reach ohms.
In fact, as I wound like a wild boar, the mandrel was full before reaching the 90m, but hey, this is not critical ...
I reaches a Duty of 22 ohms, we are in the right order of magnitude, so it's going!
After winding realized, it only remains to heat the ends of copper lighter for removing insulation, scrape the cutter blade, then solder the connection lugs, tin and iron welding.
Then again a mold with what you have on hand (Araldite, melted PET plastic bottle in an old saucepan, over low heat, in order to protect the copper fragile against impact and water.
Then mount the reel on the EV, and it's done.
A two-hour DIY (more or less depending on the equipment available to you)
Patience and cunning, what!
And above all, does satisfy the sealing of the valve EV (by blowing into the inlet connection).
If it leaks, you must remove the valve, usually a few screws to fall, the metal cover is easily removed, and you have access to the inside of the beast made of a molded plastic body and a rubber valve. There may be some dirt and / or limestone that is in there, so careful cleaning and sealing return ...
Then reassemble everything in the correct order, and you got a EV 12V to zero €: cheesy:
That voilou ...
We were on the brink, but we made a big step forward ...
