GOLF 3 1,9D: Water doping

[PITMIX]

Hello
I tackled my Golf Diesel from 97.
I use this car for long journeys to go on weekends regularly in summer.
The saving made thanks to the reactor will be easier to verify but not in the immediate (winter).
The car consumes 6,4L / 100km on this route to the country house.
For the moment I installed the reactor by starting again as at the beginning on the Super 5 ie with a water carburetor.
I also use the vapors from the breather to pass them through the reactor. Thus the air is preheated before entering the reactor. I isolated the exhaust with a hood for the kitchen.
The reactor is a mild steel tube and the stainless steel rod. The fittings are in brass, the inlet and outlet tubes in copper. The venturi in the intake is PVC (thank you Rezut for the idea).
The welds on the exhaust were made with an arc.
The pot was repainted with a high temperature spray.

ORIGINAL EXHAUST


EXHAUST WITH REACTOR


RETURN EXHAUST here we see the bonding to the exhaust sealant, of the supply tube.


REACTOR INSULATION with sheath for kitchen hood.


FEED AND REACTOR DISCHARGE in the middle the rubber tube leaves the breather and goes to a tee after the water carburetor which is on the right, the reactor outlet in a shielded tube is connected to the intake manifold.


PVC ENTRY VENTURI


VENTURI IN THE ADMISSION TUBE


OVERVIEW WITH PVC TANK

[MichelM]

Hi Pitmix.
Welcome to the club of steam-powered diesels! I hope you will have good results, there is no reason after a few adjustments and adjustments it should be easier than with the Super 5. Me what I like is the water tank ... You just have to connect to the rainwater descent of the house before each departure ...
Michel

[lau]

The saving made thanks to the reactor will be easier to verify but not in the immediate (winter).

False! Aside from living in the far North of Canada, you should have results right away if your system is efficient

I also use the vapors from the breather to pass them through the reactor. Thus the air is preheated before entering the reactor

You will have to try with and without; I doubt that it will be very useful but with your editing we will have the heart net.

The welds on the exhaust were made with an arc.

Well done! with the thickness of the pots, it couldn't have been easy (baguette 1,5?)

ps: I thought chris was going to give you an 8th star for all your editing, your relentlessness, your experiences, your thousand messages ...

[zac]

hi pitmix

nice fitting, your tube connected to the carburetor is what?
If it is copper flange your carburetor to the pot otherwise it will break within 2000km.
you did basically like our montages, join me that I give you pipes for running in (mel or better msn).
Don't give up it will work
@+

[Other]

Hi Pit
Welcome to the Diesels fitters, You will find this easier than on a petrol carburetor.

For your carburetor is it a reduced siphon system, or a tank is a float?
Your water tank is original, if it is a float it is higher than the carburetor, if it is siphon the water level will greatly affect the water consumption, which should be proportional to the consumption fuel (something the venturi normally does well)
For the ERG valve you will test with and without, you just have to disconnect the small vaccine pipe you plant a small 3mm screw in the pipe that's all, it is doomed ..
All you have to do is find the right amount of water.
For the reniflar is it a part of the reniflar or all of the reniflar which passes into the reactor? be careful if the engine is old (rubberised segmentation) that this does not obstruct the sniffing it blows a lot in the housing it should not increase too much pressure inside.
Andre

[laurent.delaon]

Hello,
how do you stop the flow of water?

[zac]

Hello,
how do you stop the flow of water?

Hello

on a mob carburetor (if it is in good condition) the constant level tank does it all by itself.

For a model fuel, I use a vacuum scooter valve as soon as you turn off the engine the water supply stops; it is enough to tilt the carburetor in the right direction so that at low speed the excess water ends up on the ground !!!!

@+

[PITMIX]

Hello
Thank you for the encouragements.
I actually switched to Diesel because I have the impression that I would encounter fewer difficulties.
Lau what I meant is that in winter I don't go on weekends to the countryside. The car stays in the garage.
No worries about arc welding with 2,5 stick the pot is thicker than the R5.
Hi it's been a long time laurent delaon .
The water flow is effectively regulated by the venturi. The only way to stop it is to close the valve that I installed just after the fuel. I noticed that the consumption of water in the city is almost zero while at high speed on the highway it is more important.
The carb is simply a float mob carb. The throttle valve is 100% open and the air filter blocked at 90%.
It is certainly too big, but I noticed that the water consumption is low. I think I am less than 1L / 100km.
I have a vacuum of 350mm of water column at 4000rpm thanks to the venturi just at the level of the water carburetor.
I tested with 350mm of water column with a water aspirator the fuel spits micro-drops. I also put a jex buffer (stainless steel wool) just before the stem so that the drops of water evaporate (thank you Laurent).
I have not yet tried to run in like Zac and André.
I think before that I have to put a small aquarium valve on the water pipe.
My water tank too I like it.
Thank you MichelM for the idea of ​​gutters.
I have to put a reduction 100/63
For the moment I have noticed one thing, there is no smell from the exhaust when the engine is hot.
From my memories even hot exhaust fumes smelled like TDI.
There I stick my nose behind and I don't feel anything. Ok that doesn't prove anything and I won't have fun doing it for more than 3 seconds. But it's a start. I noticed this by chance. The back of the car was in the garage with the engine running, there was no smell, I bent down to check and I felt nothing more.

[zac]

hi pit

If you have a carburetor don't bother to put a jex pad, it's one or the other.
your fleet consumption considering the capacity of your mill should not exceed 0.4l; manage it by reducing your sprinkler it's the simplest. Smaller nozzle or copper wire in the original one.
How much is your fuel? if it is a 12 a nozzle of 45 goes impeccable.

for running in: let your mill heat up to normal temperature, disconnect your air filter inlet, set your mill to 2000 / 2500rpm and block the air inlet as much as possible (up to the limit of setting the mill).
do the break-in outside because you are going to rewrap serious, after a few seconds the black smoke will become brick red and it will take on an odor of ozone; here you have a pantonne which works !!!

after try to drive light under diet and bring us your results of conso and CT. if you have a good rating near you try 40 / 50km in 3 then in 4 then in 5 and tell me what you think.

Don't give up, you have the right end

[PITMIX]

Thank you Zac
I hope to hold out.
I'm going to try this this weekend.
The carburetor is a 15 with a nozzle 49.
Parcontre on this car I did not manage to redo the system of fixing of the rod as on the R5.
Reminder: a total or partial withdrawal
I had welded a threaded rod 3mm in diameter and 10cm long to a plug and to the rod. When I removed the plug the rod came with it.
On the Golf the position of the exhaust does not allow this.
My question is about the fact that the rod can slide back and forth.
Is this a problem?
André said that yes on 100% pantone 125CC engine, but in water doping on auto Diesel ????