The bubbler on automobile

[lau]

Hello,

my question will be threefold: Have you had any problems with the return of water from the bubbler to the reactor because of the pitch when driving a little quickly on winding roads, even with the presence of a separating plate at the outlet of the bubbler ( anti-swirl plate?)

Then I would like to know one thing: is there a disadvantage in putting 3 liters of water of capacity in a cylindrical bubbler, I say that because many say that it is not necessary to exceed 1 liter (difficulty of setting heated?)

Finally, to heat the quantity of water in the bubbler by the coolant; would it be better to put a coil or a double bottom?

Thank you in advance for your answers.

[rezut]

Hello
1 ° no water in the reactor for me because bubbler reduced to 0.4L
2 ° if you want to roll for 30 minutes you will need to preheat your bubbler for 15 minutes minimum to arrive to have steam so no point in putting 3 liters of water
3 ° for me the best for a bubbler is the bain marie so a small bubbler half filled and a double wall around to heat as quickly as possible
any other question?

[lau]

OK!
your bubbler is reduced to 0,4L, so you have an expansion tank.
How is level control carried out?

[rezut]

Hello lau

your bubbler is reduced to 0,4L, so you have an expansion tank.
How is level control carried out?

a vase in the upper part which feeds the bubbler through two 4 mm tubes (one for the water taken at the bottom of the vase and one for the air taken at the top of the vase)

you have a project of realization under study?

[lau]

nice editing indeed! what are your fuel savings today?
I have indeed a project to install water doping on a 2,4L diesel van of 145000KM.conso: 8,2L / 100
My assets: lots of space under the hood (see photo)
no turbo, ideal displacement type with pantone
engine used to work under load
mild climate (I don't think pantones like cold, do they?)

Disadvantage: switchable fan operating continuously
my chronic inexperience in auto mechanics

[rezut]

conso change
but I have to redo my pantone this winter without enlarging the tube and I will take the opportunity to isolate everything because as you say it does not like the cold (logic) and we will see the consos after

[lau]

A preparer was to help me with the editing and I believe that I will have to manage on my own.
I have a very good position with the rectified current arc, do you know if we can weld the exhaust without drilling (rod 1,5)? because I don't have a blowtorch

[zac]

Hello
If you can weld and the pot is not too rotten, no problem. (you have to be 40 or 50 with this method).
But after if you want its duration in time to scour well and put 2 or 3 layers of cold galvanized (in a bomb); otherwise in corrosive admosphere it will be eaten in less than two.

For rezut: doping with water brings an additional torque; but if you make your engine bawl instead of using this couple you will gain nothing or almost nothing in consumption; moreover the reactor needs heat so it is better to be in under regime than the reverse.

@+
zac

[lau]

ok thanks for the info, in this case I will weld stainless steel.

[rezut]

zac said

doping with water leads to an increase in torque; but if you bray your engine instead of using this torque you will gain nothing or almost in consumption; moreover the reactor needs heat so it is better to be under regime than the reverse

hi zac
I never yell my engine (I clean it rather 250km) I drive without forcing too much 000 in 90 ° without ever mounting the reports and despite this no reduced consumption for my work trips (5 km) the bubbler is very hot after 23 km that's why I think to redo my pantone this winter without inflating the tube and I hope to gain in consumption
the future will tell

for lau
I hope for you that you have a tube in one thickness because otherwise not easy to weld (mine is made of two sheets 1 of 0.5 and 1 of 0.8 roll, weld and in addition protect by aluminum) I have planned to redo it in stainless steel this winter