New easy mounting

[Other]

Hello

Copper heats faster and is immune to corrosion (in the case we are interested in water gas). Stainless steel ditto but heats slower

You mean to put a copper pipe inside the exhaust pipe? What diameter? How to weld it at the junction with the steel of the exhaust pipe? (I am not a welder

The copper for a diesel engine passes but not for a gasoline engine .. this does not live lives ..
It is a copper tube that drives the exhaust gases into my boiler on the Chevrolet the duration is less than a year the copper becomes all hardened and finished by casing.
Well in agreement with Laurent that the preheating tube must be in the exhaust outside it is complicated to make contat to get the heat (it must be welded and in addition isolated, while inside not Of problem besides the restriction that this causes to the exhaust, as it is a definitive job to take good materials, one is not interested to return in the exhaust pipe.
In copper, insert in an exhaust tand that there is water in drop or suspension no problem but if you operate dry it is too hot on a gasoline engine, I prefer the stainless steel despite its inetie thermal..
To weld copper with steel or stainless steel, it is necessary to use brass brass, or to make mechanical joints with collar turned down. But welding is preferable ..

For spraying either an injection like Pitmix or a small carburetor that spits into a stainless steel tube in the exhaust as I do. Either as Michel GV. Or drip into the heated tube.

Andre

[laurent.delaon]

Hello,
It is necessary to braze with a silver brass alloy 5% ca very well on stainless steel if not brazing brass ca must suffice.Il must do it with oxyacetylene
To have a sufficient heating temperature (gas lamp insufficient). It is realizable if one is handyman and one has the material and one knows how to do otherwise a profesionnel is recommended ....
Otherwise for stainless steel idem without the money. Or tig welding.
The stainless steel tube is not too thick: 1mm max. Beyond useless.

[jean63]

: | a report is spent last night on the E85 liter was 75-78 cents so in my opinion it will already lose money ......

Do not forget that a vehicle whose engine is adapted to run on bioethanol (flex fuel), consumes 20 to 30% more fuel than if it runs on gasoline..

We must keep this in mind.

I roll LPG with an old vehicle (17 years) and I consume liters 10 / 100 or 15 km to 25% more than gasoline, but 0,70 euros / liter + long cushioned vehicle, I will go on like that.

It's been the same for LPG ago 10 or 15 years (or more?). The state chose to tax what little fuel GREEN judged at the time.

Since then it has become plagued while in terms of pollution "on the ground" it is very clean (no particles (diesel), no sulfur, no benzene (gasoline) ... I do not have the complete list, BUT a little more CO2 than diesel)).

It is necessary to suppress this message, it is a false manipulation !!

[Capt_Maloche]

: Lol:
for the subject on the foggers, it's on what forum ? an address where to find cells?
thank you ;

you're exaggerating there, I put you the link with the photos

Capt_Maloche wrote:

Otherwise there is even simpler to spray water:

http://www.lesjardinssuspendus.com/cata ... ath/26_141

The mist ultra sound
1 cell = 80ml / h
3 cells = 240ml / h

[PITMIX]

Hello
To answer to jean63 in my case it is my reactor in tube heating that I modified.
It is therefore in the exhaust and is in 1/2 "galvanized steel.
I deliberately made a reactor whose stem and the inlet and outlet connections are removable to be able to pass from reactor to simple steam doping.
I need about 30 min to switch from one system to another.
Indeed the copper being finer and better thermal conductor we better pick up the heat.
I have a copper tube on the outside of the exhaust that is welded against with silver solder (80%) coated decapping.
This tube made it possible to preheat water droplets coming from my water carburetted reactor. It is now used for steam evacuation.
By cons what to do is a small hole in the steam outlet tube. The tube that goes up to the inlet.
This small hole allows the evacuation of possible drops of water which could rise up towards the engine. It also allows an air intake that improves the suction of steam.

[Pastekos]

I am about to experiment a water injection with a small carburetor mounted on water above my carburet of 205 (finally beside a small tubulure).

A little like the VIX system but I place it above the carbu.

I will use a small new WALBRO carburettor, intended for a motor cultivator I believe.

I was wondering if it would be interesting to heat the carburettor tank using the cooling circuit of the car.

Nico.

[PITMIX]

Hello
Have you ever tried to simulate what will happen when you're going to run your system?
The depression above the carbu is very low.
It's not going to get much out of the water carburet.
In addition if there are drops of water that enters the body of the carbu of your car it could be problematic.

However, when using the connected water carburettor under The carbu of the car and that you intercalate between the reactor you cancel all the problems that you will encounter with what you want to do.
The only thing to master is slowing it down. In this case, you will need to close the reactor outlet tube when your engine is running at a slower speed.

It would be better to think of a different idea than the water carbure to spray water if you want to do it above the carb.
A fuel injector in which you would pass water for example.
On my car I will try the water vapor simply.

This is my opinion but I do not have infused science

More I may be misunderstood your tubing will go above or below the carbu ??

[Pastekos]

No, no, I think I place it above the carb.

The problem if I connect it to the intake pipe is that the depression is just inversely proportional to the opening of the butterfly. This is not the operation I want.

I will continue in this direction.

[PITMIX]

In the end it's not quite accurate.
From what I observed by putting a mano on the intake manifold the depression is inversely proportional only if you roll nervously.
If you stay well the depression is constant and very strong.
Except at slow or it is too strong.
On my car it gave -0,2 to -0,4bars while rolling and -0,6bars to slow.
Even at -0,2bars it already sucks very hard and it sprays well the water by depression.
On the other hand above the carbu I had to make a column of water to know the depression.
At the entrance of the venturi of the carbu I had 30mm of column of water.
For info under the carbu -0,2bars it made 2m of water column.
Do not count on the depression to spray the water if you want to run over the carb.
So try something rather that works with a water pump or a wind tunnel.
Steam is another thing because it's simpler but I'm not able to tell you if it gives different effects.
Other precision:
My first 100% Pantone test on 110cm3 engine I had done by connecting the reactor instead of the air filter of the original carbu.
The engine did not start.
I turned the carbu and connected the reactor directly to the intake pipe, the engine started at the first shot.
Explanation == >> There was not enough suction to pull the gasoline vapor from the bubbler through the original fuel and the reactor and series.

[Other]

Hello

No, no, I think I place it above the carb.

The problem if I connect it to the intake pipe is that the depression is just inversely proportional to the opening of the butterfly. This is not the operation I want.

I will continue in this direction.

And how do you think VIX works? Underneath a tiny hole.
You adjust it so that it is good at the normal driving regime
in slow motion it is too useless, 100kmh is perfect at 150 kmh is inadequate ..
Begin by proving if it works well at 100kmh before spending a lot of energy to make a regulation ...

Andre