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Water injection in thermal engines and the famous "pantone engine". General informations. Press clippings and videos. Understanding and scientific explanations on the injection of water into engines: ideas for assemblies, studies, physico-chemical analyzes.
Other
Pantone engine Researcher
Pantone engine Researcher
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Registration: 17/03/05, 02:35
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by Other » 15/08/06, 05:00

Hello
It seems to me that much has been said about the fogger
in my first 125cc engine assemblies it was this method that I used a fogger with built-in fan and level control (an old humidifier that people get rid of because of the white dust it deposits on furniture)
For the small engine it was enough, but for a car it is not enough.
The last fogger I bought fountain fogger
LAGUNA for the purpose of installing it on the 300D
It works in 24 volt dc (Easy with an inverter)
it can pass 200ml of water per hour (not enough)
to have a nice mist it must be immersed at a constant level 30mm and 45mm too deep it makes little mist too much on the surface it looks like a water pump.
water temperature from 10c to 35c
The mist should be (scraped) from the surface by a small draft,
the water must be clean for the ceramic membrane, which has a relatively short lifespan depending on the hardness of the water.
All these disadvantages make that for a functional mounting on a car it is far from being as simple as a carburetor or a bubbler, or even an injection.
It is not recommended to heat the water with the fogger, but warm water 30c produces more mist.
In my tests with the small 125cc engine I did not find a big difference on the market of the panton between the bubbler and the fogger.
I mainly use the mister (humidifier) ​​for experiments, because it was adjustable in intensity and easy to put into operation.

Andre
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delnoram
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by delnoram » 15/08/06, 09:53

Hello.
As for the nebulizer, I had thought of it for a "pantone",
but according to what I was told the nebulizer needs a fairly precise water level (neither too high nor too low) and stable, difficult to stabilize a liquid in a car especially when it is running (roundabout) already with an empty tank is not very good .....
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abyssin3
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Registration: 18/07/05, 15:12




by abyssin3 » 15/08/06, 22:54

Indeed petrus, it was indeed this link that I had seen, and this membrane can make 400mL / H.
But on the other hand, it consumes a lot of electricity and there is the problem of the water depth which is difficult to maintain for an often used vehicle.
So as André says, it can be rather useful for testing.
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Petrus
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by Petrus » 15/08/06, 23:56

The electric consumption is quite important but if there is an increase in the engine efficiency, it can be profitable, for the level PB, it would be necessary to make a system at constant level, as on a carburetor.
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Other
Pantone engine Researcher
Pantone engine Researcher
posts: 3787
Registration: 17/03/05, 02:35
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by Other » 16/08/06, 00:39

Hello,
The main reason that I didn’t use this system on a car
is that for 6 months it is winter here, even with an alcohol water carburetor I have problems. with a bubbler it works relatively well. it's a block of ice in the morning after 5 to 6 km it melts ..
Mixing water and alcohol on a gasoline engine gives no better result than water on its own, and in a bubbler it is alcohol that fades first.
The water level is not a big problem the nebulizer stops automatically when it runs out of water, and the consumption is minimal, compare compare to a rear window defroster and here the auto works with the lights on at all times, it is not for nothing that the alternator is from 80 amperes to 120 amperes.
the other reason there is not enough difference on the efficiency of the reactor with a bubbler or carburetor, So I go to the easiest
not always the simplest .. Easier means available and functional without always being the head under the hood ..

Andre
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lau
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by lau » 16/08/06, 16:12

And the inconel rod? and the nickel beads?
does it work or not :?:
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