Smoke leak on stove Pellets. Find the leak of a chimney (with earthenware bushels)?

[Christophe]

The hotter it gets, that's good! It is quite logical! This is valid for many things! Hein Macro?

Good without laughing, here are some pictures of the draw, made at the moment, the conditions are as follows:

a) cold chimney (except ambient temperature)
b) wind from 15-20 km / h
c) outside temperature: 0 to 1 ° C
d) indoor temperature: 11 ° C (cellar)
e) outside it snows

Black pipes are sealed hoses for pellet stoves.

Fireplace_pellets_1.jpg (210.84 Kio) Accessed 5191 times

Cheminée_pellets.jpg (190.79 Kio) Accessed 5191 times

Fireplace_pictures_test_briquet.jpg (205.31 Kio) Viewed 5191 times

Fireplace_pellets_2.jpg (119.09 Kio) Accessed 5191 times

Fireplace_pellets_3.jpg (136.39 Kio) Accessed 5191 times

Fireplace_pellets_4.jpg (175.7 Kio) Accessed 5191 times

In short I think that we can not say that it does not fire, even "cold) ... and if the flame of the lighter is too small (as in the first photo), the draw even blows the flame ...

So ... I wonder if it's not the stove blower that creates a "loop", I'll give it a try by increasing the air supply ... and if that's the problem I would take it. air outside because this stove allows it (for the moment the air intake is natural, the volume of the cellar is 200m3, so it is very large ...). However, the chimney is not waterproof and I still have to check that ...

[Christophe]

And here is a picture of better quality of the horizontal part:

a) we see a little the bushels before the angle
(b) the angle of the horizontal part is 6 °
b) this afternoon, I will inspect in detail (with a lighter) the joints of the repaired part
c) why do you think the bushels were completely re-bricked and not left "rough" with glue joints at each connection?

chimney_horizontale.jpg (251.6 Kio) Viewed 5191 times

[sicetaitsimple]

And here is a picture of better quality of the horizontal part:

a) we see a little the bushels before the angle
(b) the angle of the horizontal part is 6 °
b) this afternoon, I will inspect in detail (with a lighter) the joints of the repaired part
c) why do you think the bushels were completely re-bricked and not left "rough" with glue joints at each connection?

Sorry, I can not find myself in your photo. Could you put some legends?

On the masonry of the bushels, I imagine that it is a refractory concrete, to isolate?

[Christophe]

a) It is a "zoom" of the left part of the photo with the annotations in red of the first message: heating-insulation / leak-of-smoke-on-stove-a-pellet-find-the-flight-of-a-fireplace-a-bushel-in-terracotta-t15493.html

b) I do not know if it's refractory, I think no, it looks more like a fibro-cement board (to be confirmed this afternoon when I go to see)

c) I just lit the stove and after 15 minutes it smelled smoke in the technical room, I opened a window in the room to see if it improves things ...

[sicetaitsimple]

So ... I wonder if it's not the stove blower that creates a "loop", I'll give it a try by increasing the air supply ... and if that's the problem I would take it. air outside because this stove allows it (for the moment the air intake is natural, the volume of the cellar is 200m3, so it is very large ...). However, the chimney is not waterproof and I still have to check that ...

Blower? Did you talk about natural print?

On the volume of your cellar, it has in my opinion no influence, except perhaps at startup. At full load, a machine like this must swallow the order of 100m3 / h of air.

[Christophe]

Must be distinguished:

a) the natural draft of the chimney, which is pretty good in my case ...

b) the forced draft of the pellet stove which creates a suction in the fireplace and a (slight) overpressure in the chimney. This is why the pellet stove ducts must be waterproof especially in the interior and in the absence of natural draft ... (Many pellet stoves installed with a chimney 2 m ... some even in sucker!)

The vast majority of pellet stoves have a forced draft to control combustion and power ...

c) The chimney remains in depression when the stove turns ... I controlled it by opening the hatch of chimney sweeping ...

[Christophe]

So:

a) with the window open it does not change anything, always so much smoke ...

It is therefore not a problem of "looping" pressure ... I suspected it a little given the volume of the room but it was necessary to test this hypothesis.

b) I went to see "on site" ... and here are some pictures of the repair and the bushels, it looks like this:

Repair top right (there may be a leak at the bottom, the wall seems a little blackened ...?)

chimney.jpg (322.29 KIO) Viewed 5167 times

"Formwork" of the bushels (in fact it is a concrete slab, very heavy I cannot move it alone)

fireplace_1.jpg (345.73 KIO) Viewed 5167 times

Vertical edge of the formwork:

fireplace_2.jpg (337.49 KIO) Viewed 5167 times

End of bushels and repair:

Top bushels:

fireplace_5.jpg (161.22 KIO) Viewed 5167 times

The test of the lighter along the joints did not give anything, nor that of the wet "fingers" ... stove blower on but without flame (when the stove is stopped the blower operates for 20 minutes to evacuate all the fumes)

In short, I could not identify any leaks ...

The access, the photos and the repair are lying is super boring and difficult

So as an action plan:

a) I will re-put a good layer of refractory mortar on the joints of the repair and of the "plug-repair" connection ...

b) If that is not enough I will "seal" around the formwork ...

c) And if that is still not enough bin I tear all (formwork + bushels + repair) and I put a galva elbow 125 sealed in the vertical part of the chimney. And I would seal the chemical seal and refractory mortar these nozzles (because nozzles stove stove it will cost me an arm ... and as it is hidden no need to put the stainless steel). The problem is that we can sweep more by the trap door (but the sweeping will be possible by the exit of the stove ... but the galva elbow may be a problem ...)

[Lolounette]

I do not know if it can work for you but when we look for gas leaks on pipes we use soapy water: where the gas escapes it makes bubbles ... there is no not enough flow on the leak for it to work but it does not cost much to try?

[Christophe]

Logically the chimney is in depression ... the gas is him in pressure ... so I would have to try that when the stove turns ...

And the problem is that I have a monstrous surface to test ... and not easily accessible and not at all for 2 4 faces bushels ... pffff ... not easy!

[Ahmed]

Bubble detection works even for minute leaks, but it is difficult to envisage on large porous surfaces that will absorb the liquid ...