Description of the burner ball that I put on the forum PMC evolution last year Fabien made the text, the original is handwritten (no computer 1970 when I designed this burner, which asked me a few years of development
although initially I had put my energy to want pulverize an oil film on two discs in friction, given the complexity of realization I am facing something more simple, and who tolerated the unfiltered oil, not refined, the temperature reached in this burner is limited to the melting point of copper, I arrived earlier, with montages warm air jogging, but in this assembly I have sought simplicity and endurance of the parts,
as well as just a piece of pipe the tip of the nozzle simply reduced iron resists a dizainne d, years
a high temperature application of material in refractory nozzles and for home heating is not necessary to go higher than 1200c, although the high temperature combustion ensures a better ..
You'll notice on the photo gray color in the nozzle of the burner that looks like a car exhaust that works in the right ratio and supported.
Here in detail what make a simple heating, is without economic fummée, operating oilseeds. It can be supplied with all kinds of vegetable oils is the same grease once liquefied. The oil does not need to be filtered This may require some adjustment of the system. But I trust you when modifications and adaptations.
Principle of operation
Is allowed to flow slowly by gravity oil on top of the ball, the oil film stretches is becoming thinner to reach its minimum thickness in the middle of the sphere. (That is observing the paint ammincire on a ball that I get to this principle)
The oil that passes the slot is pulverized by an air jet, the excess oil flowing when with him in the return system that has more acts to protect the ball against flame radiation . Impurities pass over the ball and back into the tank it is no inconvenéants to the burner.
The ideal operating pressures are in 1.3 1.5 kg. The system ideally works when the oil has reached to 60 80 ° C. When it exceeds 100 ° C, there is difficulty in maintaining the entire oil film.
Because of traces of water suspended in certain oils
With this device you can heat with all oils. The downside is a bit noisy as a big torch.
Adjusting the oil flow is through the needle valve. A small piece of coarse mesh, before the needle in the pipe to prevent clogging the narrow passage. If depleted too much, the flame is shortened, resonates and generates more noise. The heating power is adjusted when her thanks to the needle valve and the atomizing air pressure.
the burner can be operated in a fireplace without direct garage, there is no smoke when the flow is snug, but be careful anyway to leave a small vent to doors or windows, you never know (principle kerosene stove)
To stop, simply cut off the air, it may leak a little oil that cools the sphere.
To stay in a simple assembly is not sending combustion air by a fan, only siphon. If we add a fan it become even hotter and you often change the steel tube burner does not stand long, and for home heating flame to 1100 ° C is more than enough.
The heating power is such that one gets to melt aluminum and copper. We can even run small parts, or in servire as forging heating
Manufacturing
The most difficult part is to make the hollow ball. The simplest is to make the brass which is easier to machine and weld.
We get a rod with a diameter of 12 to 18 (the sphere must be 12 to 18 mm in diameter. Bigger we heat a complete building !!), we make a hole in the center diameter 4mm or more to allow the passage of l air and a good stroke of a file to make the "exit slit". The latter must have a width of 5 to 6 mm, and a depth of 2 / 10th of a mm It should be noted that a slit that is too thin becomes blocked with impurities in the air and that too wide consumes too much air and requires a larger compressor. The simplest is an old refrigerator compressor with a regulator to adjust the air pressure. (plan to add oil for the compressor, because in open circuit it consumes some)
Once the machined slot in one puts a piece of steel foil oxidized to plug the hole, placed the hat and the soda money (solder). And we remove the foil (hoping that the weld did not stick). Then it only remains to machine the entire data ribs either turn or drill with a good lime. The ball must be well polished paper with water and then the polishing paste (the ball must have a chrome effect).
The slot should be slightly above the middle, but never below the middle because the oil film begins to grow in the descent.
The pipe that brings fuel to the ball does not touch, but should be close to a few millimeters, and centered on the ball, the ball must be in vertical position well.
Please do not try to make too big a burner. The dimensions on plans supplied heating a home or garage when the outside temperature is around -20 see - 30 ° C. And with low power consumption (1,8 liter per hour)
For the first tests I suggest you take a container reserve a liter, up above the ball, and another below because in walking distance the oil temperature increases quickly and flow settings have to adjust. Most of the oil that passes the ball going to return only the part that passes the slot is burned.
Initially we light with a small propane blowtorch, it is not necessary to install an electrical ignition system, flame sensor and solenoid on the area has less to want to make an unattended and automatic system.
sprayed oil before combustion has the appearance of cigarette smoke.
The burner works best with heavy oil, consumes less and gives more heat than with oil.
NOTES
The slot in the ball is between 6 8 has milliemmes inch of this should give a 2 3 diziemmes mm
the slot is barely visible to the eoil
Andre
) it's clear,
