machine drum washing impeller

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Alain G
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by Alain G » 04/12/09, 04:56

Christophe wrote:Rooooh he's going to break my drum dream and almost 1 year of effort to put a thing straight?

It is certain that a propeller (> 60% efficiency) will work better than a paddle wheel (20% efficiency if you are lucky).

But you have to know how to channel to put a propeller!

In the same kind there is the PICO + but apparently the company that sells them has difficulties (or restructures) because all their sites are HS, here is a datasheet: https://www.econologie.com/pico-turbine- ... -4069.html

Joke not too much because if it is in 1 year when I am well disgusted by the wheel dawn, I will buy a thing quite done ... :?:


Do not worry, Christophe! We can not blame you for trying!
Besides, I encourage you to continue!

This small turbine still costs near 1000 euros which is very expensive given the simplicity of the thing.

I was thinking of putting several in the same river at different places to increase production.

I would be curious to try a boat electric motor to see if we can pull something out, but the speed of rotation is too fast to be used in general.

We can always dream!!!

:D
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by Lietseu » 04/12/09, 12:37

There was also this famous system that looked like a sink that is empty .... it's in the post on the wind, I think ...

will do some research just now ... : Cheesy:


Meow :P
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by Christophe » 04/12/09, 12:43

Alain G wrote:This small turbine still costs near 1000 euros which is very expensive given the simplicity of the thing.

I was thinking of putting several in the same river at different places to increase production.


Yes I saw the price: it's more expensive than the pico more.

Problem, except now I don't have 8 knots, the propellers or turbine it works well but at high speed / pressure ... in my case the paddle wheel is certainly the only "drinking" solution ...

This morning she still had a piece of trunk in her teeth, I decided to keep what I got back :)

Will make a pile and it will make a nice picture when he is at 1 m high : Cheesy: : Cheesy:

Lietseu I see what you are thinking but it requires serious "concreting" ...
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by Christophe » 04/12/09, 19:10

There is a dirty logger's con (not you Bucheron, another) who swayed a few cuts in the creek ...

Results: a wedge stuck (no it's not a duck) in the wheel and 2 broken blades ... one of the 2 "caught" on the structure and I was therefore able to recover it, the other will be soon in the sea ! : Mrgreen:

It will be absolutely necessary that I put a grid to protect the wheel.
A "V" on the bow should work well and be "self-cleaning" ...

With the current, I really had trouble stopping and holding the wheel during the repair.

Image
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by tigrou_838 » 05/12/09, 11:59

Hi Christophe, a solution or rather an idea as said above by someone, I do not know who, it will be to change your anchor points, your cables, more on the floats, so that the whole surf always Above the water and normally the little things wood washing machine or others should pass underneath and follow the current.

I see at this moment that when you have too much water power, the pressure on the cables plunges the front of the assembly instead of keeping it above the water.

think "surfing" on water like a windsurfing board for example.

tigrou

: Mrgreen:
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by Christophe » 05/12/09, 12:44

The cables pull horizontally and not vertically (or very little). They do not have to support the weight of the boat but only the drag. If we want to prevent the floats pass under the water must just give slack compared to the fall but it's less hydraulic power ...

In the end, as long as it's balanced, I do not think it's a problem ...

I have already put, as suggested above, one of the 2 cables lower but it does not change much.

ps: your genie is disassembled, you can come over the recovered if you want.
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by tigrou_838 » 07/12/09, 12:06

hi Christophe, yes I saw that you already have two anchor points lower, but you should put the anchor points more towards the front of the "raft" to keep the floating floats in the water and so that the paddle wheel is always in the correct power setting on the blades whether there is water or not.

you have the cables on the middle of the raft, so it's plunging the front.

and if you put them higher on the drum it will plunge even more.

I had done some tests on a small windsurfing board by a boat and I can tell you that the anchor must be completely on the front for the stability of the set otherwise it is the submarine warranty.

solar greetings.

tigrou
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by Christophe » 07/12/09, 12:20

No they are (almost) in the front, not in the middle.

Look better on the previous photos: the floats were moved back from the beginning ...

The problem is the strong variations in flow / water level (but that I knew from the beginning) ... we can not do much ...

We can roll back everything: but we will have less hydraulic power ...
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by tigrou_838 » 07/12/09, 14:04

Christophe, I look at the picture above, and in my opinion:

1 / the anchors (the cables) should be on the floats as much as possible. not at the bottom of the drum (force and pressure on the blades that plunge the front)

2 / generative drums, on the back middle part (between middle and 3 / 4 rear) of the float raft (question of balancing to raise slightly the front of the floats) (to find the good regulation)

like that, that you are 20cm or 100cm of water below, your blades will always return of XX cm in the water. (so always with the same power)

then,

the speed of displacement of the water which will turn more or less quickly your wheel.


tigrou : Idea:
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by Christophe » 07/12/09, 14:08

1) You forgot a Tigger thing: the counter torque of the generator will "plunge" the rear... and so up the front ...

That's why the back is so long compared to the front but as the gen is not yet mounted ... necessarily it is unbalanced!

2) The wheel must be as close as possible to the fall ... otherwise no watts ...
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