A wind turbine at home: Regulation for battery

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roro04
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Registration: 15/10/12, 17:43




by roro04 » 09/02/14, 22:56

I could not ask for more power than my generator certainly produces but I can ask for more than what the wind brings me and what the wind turbine is able to provide me mechanically.

The best thing will be that depending on the wind speed, my current limitation moves: the more wind there is, the higher it is and vice versa.

When you say less wind less amperes, in theory yes. But the current demanded by the batteries remains the same: when they are discharged it is as if I had a short circuit on my generator. It is asked to produce its maximum so it takes a lot of force to drive it so the wind stalls or does not start. This is why I would have to make a system, via an anemometer for example, which restricts the current to 1A for example at low wind and 5A at strong wind. I could also take the opportunity to protect myself from the storm: put my gen in short circuit when there is too much wind in order to stall the wind turbine.

Anti-return diode provided :-)
The relay I thought to put it so that it activates the regulation system only when the wind turbine or the panels produce. It avoids discharging the batteries for nothing.

Where would you put capacitors?

Good night,
See you tomorrow :-)
0 x
roro04
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by roro04 » 10/02/14, 20:53

Good evening D

Here is the diagram of the regulation for the wind turbine:
Image

Otherwise what do you think of the explanations given in my previous message?

Good night,
A big thank-you : Mrgreen:
Good night.
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dede2002
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by dede2002 » 11/02/14, 01:47

Hello,

It will just be necessary to feed the resistance with the + of the generator ...
Could LED 2 be parallel to the resistor, and light up when loaded? (100 Ohm that's 1.4W, that's too much)
The relay, once glued, how to take it off? it is self-sustaining.

I do not understand how the wind turbine could stall? It must already be idling up to a certain speed to reach 12V, before starting to produce power.

The short-circuit as storm protection seems utopian to me, I fear that it will melt ...

I worked on a farm where we had a 60W wind turbine and 2 solar panels to charge the lighting batteries.
It only stalled when there was not enough wind, and it ended up exploded by centrifugal force during a storm, the blades went far!

The "waster" (the bypass resistor) was part of the regulation, at the time (1990) we also diverted the surplus solar panels.

The regulation also had a discharge alarm, then it cut everything below a certain voltage so as not to over-discharge the batteries.

A+

ps: I tried with an alternator regulator, it works as a safety limiter but it loses 0.7V so it heats up a little under 5A, not great.

What is good with your new diagram is that the charging current no longer passes through M1 (how much is the voltage drop of M1?)
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dede2002
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by dede2002 » 11/02/14, 02:52

A note: LED2 is after the transistor, the voltage will remain at 2V at the output of Q2. By putting it forward, the voltage will drop to zero at the output of Q2.

Here, a diagram to study :D

https://www.econologie.info/share/partag ... OAz1Vr.JPG
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dede2002
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by dede2002 » 11/02/14, 14:03

Re,

I took some pictures of the assembly with the alternator regulator, it is in the trash because now we no longer change the coals, we change the entire regulator (or the entire alternator ...)

The regulator's own consumption is 25 to 30 mA.
There it did not come into action because my panel is only 10W, it charges at 520 mA under 13V at the battery, 0.8V in the regulator so 13.8 panel output. 7.2W the panel gives all it can. (It would take an MPPT regulator to get 10W under 18V.)

Image

Image

Image
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roro04
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by roro04 » 11/02/14, 20:26

Good evening!

Thank you for your interest in my project.
I like the alternator regulator system :) On the other hand, is it applicable for the wind turbine or just the panels? Because if the batteries are charged the wind turbine will run almost empty and therefore risk of runaway ?!

Here are some pictures of the regulator that I found at the back of my garage :P

Image
Image
Image

So for connection, do you connect the battery to ground (to the left of the regulator on mine, towards the fixing screw)? The plus of the battery on the positive (or negative) carbon wire? And to finish the wire of the panel where?

Sorry I can't see too much on the photos: - / Can you tell me what is what you noted on the labels? Especially the G + and G-?

On these regulators, to engage them we use the indicator light on the dashboard I believe (terminal L on my regulator). So we connect nothing? And the LED?

Sorry for all these questions but I want to try to understand : Mrgreen:

Thank you for your help and your patience.
Good night,
@+
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dede2002
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by dede2002 » 11/02/14, 21:19

Hello,

I'm experimenting, I'm even surprised that it works in this configuration ...

The wire of the lamp is the + of the regulator to be connected to the + battery. This is the reference voltage. It is connected directly to the carbon + if the regulator regulates by the -.
If it regulates by the +, then a carbon is directly connected to the mass.
Ground is connected to the battery.
The panel connected between the 2 coals.
The LED is parallel with the regulator, it lights up when it is loaded (as soon as the voltage difference exceeds 2V).
G + - this is the generator (panel).

Start by taking measurements with a diode tester to understand how it is connected.
And measure its consumption when connected to a battery.

For the wind turbine it will be good to invert the regulator signal, use it in your circuit (replacing the zener and the transistors) to control M1.
For the panels too, it would be better not to pass all the charge current through the regulator.

A+
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roro04
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by roro04 » 11/02/14, 21:36

Re,

Ok. What surprises me on the other hand is why you plug the panels on the coals? In normal operation, the excitation current comes from the batteries and is injected into the rotor ...

But in the other direction it will not work either because the panel voltage will be high ... So no excitement.

To invert the regulator signal I don't think it's complicated I'll think about it. Tomorrow I will disassemble the regulator to see if it is a positive or negative and to test it;)

After, for the panels, my house regulator, even if it is more complicated to put in place, is it functional? And the advantage of being adjustable and modifiable at will.

It is for the wind turbine house regulation that I have a doubt that it works correctly. I am afraid that the dissipation resistance (inductance) influences the "oscillatory" operation of the assembly. You told me about capacitors above; where would you place them on my montage?

Good night,
See you soon.
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dede2002
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by dede2002 » 11/02/14, 21:58

I am not an electronics engineer ...

Your block diagram is the same as the regulator, you can try. the advantage of the regulator is that it is precise (it never goes wrong) and solid.
You can measure the resistance of the rotor, with Ohm's law you will know the maximum intensity of the regulator.

But I still think that it is necessary to amplify (and reverse for the wind turbine) its signal with a power stage (M1).
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roro04
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by roro04 » 11/02/14, 22:29

Re,

Totally agree with you on the solidity and precision;)
I will test all this asap! For the moment I will test the first diagram that I published in your first post.

I will then see for that of the wind turbine.
I will also start testing this alternator regulator, it's mysterious that it works : Cheesy:

Good night,
Thank you :D
++
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