thermal solar panels

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airandsuncar
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by airandsuncar » 30/12/03, 16:37

To recover solar energy to heat water, you must use bricks and pass the water pipes through these bricks.

;)
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by Christophe » 31/12/03, 17:17

uh ... can you develop a little? How is it in the bricks?
What about insulation?
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airandsuncar
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by airandsuncar » 15/06/04, 14:08

Paint in Black the bricks. :P
The pipes obviously pass below.
I did not think of isolating because I am not used to living where he freezes.
Cordially. B)
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by Dearcham » 31/08/04, 15:09

A lot of small magazines explain how to build your solar thermal collector: it is ultimately quite simple: a wooden frame, a black background, a copper coil, a glass above and good insulation and voila.
You can add an expansion tank and a valve to drain the heat transfer fluid (water + ANTIFREEZE or other)
If your accommodation allows it, preferably use a thermosyphon system (use the natural propensity of hot water to go up the installation) rather than a circulator which will always depend on the EDF network.

You can also create a parabolic solar oven and pass the copper tube in the middle but for use on the scale of an installation it will take up more space

As for bricks, there are also some for the interior of the house: terracotta with a special notch to let pipes pass. The walls dissipate and store the heat of the heat transfer fluid by inertia (in self-construction, if you use water, DON'T FORGET THE ANTIFREEZE) heated by the thermal sensors.
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by nofy » 09/10/05, 18:13

Hi everybody,

I have my solar collectors ready to install and I wonder if it is better to tilt them to 45 ° or 60 ° ... I tell myself that at 60 ° it is better for winter, the sun being lower. In summer I will have a problem with too much hot water, so do not hesitate, I am taking all the ideas to evacuate, but not in nature. By the way I have 34 m2 of panels, so it will heat up hard ...

Nofy (dream)
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by Cuicui » 09/10/05, 21:21

On panels tilted at 60 °, snow slides much better in winter.
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by Former Oceano » 09/10/05, 21:36

It is better to give priority to winter because the days are shorter, the weather is worse and the temperatures of the mains water lower than in the summer.
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by bham » 24/10/05, 16:56

Questions for nofy:
What did you put up as panels? self-built or bought ready-made?

For cuicui:
you have given polycarbonate?
do you have antifreeze in your circuit or water?
how do you deal with possible summer overheating?

Question to both:
you heat what floor area (or what volume) with your 40 and 34 m2?
do you do hydroaccumulation? if yes, with underground tanks, buffer tanks?

Other than that, I don't know if it's still financially interesting to make the panels yourself, since prices will drop. If you count the necessary materials, wood, copper, glass or polycarbonate, insulation, you quickly arrive at the prices found on the Pierre Amet site or www.logotech.fr (157 € / m2 after deduction of 40% ademe). In addition, an Austrian heating engineer told me that in Austria, the m2 of solar panel manufactured by Gasokol (I think) cost 100 € / m2. His brother is in Strasbourg and could import it, I must contact him. Otherwise, it is possible to make a purchasing group like Pierre Amet and buy them directly in Austria, via a heating engineer who will take his margin and allow subsidies to be obtained.
Viessmann will even manufacture from 2006 cheaper panels (a chouilla less efficient than the current ones), according to what I was told.
In addition, the amount of the subsidy will increase to 50% in 2006 (remains to be seen for VAT at 5,5%) + the regional premium of € 1300 in Lorraine + aid from the ANAH subject to resources. So it makes me want to tinker and spend hours there without being sure of the result.

I am still trying to find out about the possible superiority of vacuum collectors see www.trybasolar.fr for example. It would seem that they are more insulating, that they do not need thermal insulation (seen the vacuum) and thus perhaps less thick, and that they have a higher output in cold period or in low-angle light (therefore effective over a wider daily time slot). By cons overheating more common in summer. If anyone knows more ...

And then to finish on science fiction, it would be nice if they would make solar panels for us with an electrically reversible glass, transparent 3/4 of the time and moderately opaque as soon as there is a risk of overheating ...
unless you use overheating to run a stirling engine capable of covering our electricity needs ... (that's for nofy)
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by Cuicui » 24/10/05, 22:13

Hi bham
Well yes, I have given polycarbonate, the factory that manufactures it is 3 km from my home and the current product has a UV coating significantly more effective than 20 years ago. It covers my whole roof on the south side (around 150 m2) and replaces the tiles. It's light and it doesn't break like glass.
My absorbers (copper fabrics in which is embedded a copper tube diameter 6 mm every 7 cm), I bought them too, but we can consider to tinker them while being inspired by the Giordano technique (tube of 8 mm on which we fix, for example with tin soldering, fins made of thin copper sheet which protrude on each side by 8 cm. Six of these elements placed side by side make collectors 1 m wide. The sun being free, it is better to make the sensors as inexpensive as possible. The performance, we do not care, just increase the surface. The important thing is to have reliable equipment that does not rust and does not break down.
During the heat wave, the small indoor pool of 25 m2 rises to more than 35 °. In order not to cook the PVC liner, the windows are opened to allow them to cool overnight.
It works with ordinary water. The circulator pushes the water into the collectors. As soon as the circulator stops, the collectors empty and the water returns to the small tank located in the house a little below the level of the bases of the collectors. A system that has worked flawlessly for 25 years.
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by bham » 25/10/05, 09:15

hi cuicui.
Well done, your emptying system is still a bit vague for me but you seem to have mastered all of that. By cons what happens when it freezes? Doesn't the circulating water have time to freeze? and then when the circulator starts again, an air purge is required. Is the water circulating in your panels the one you use as DHW and / or heating or does it go in a buffer tank with coil?
Don't you have pictures to show us?
where do you live in the Vosges? you can answer me by MP or email
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