no no, it's to charge a battery.
This morning I got a reluctance motor (washing machine), can it be converted into a generator?
Thank you
Windmill Construction Detail
Hello,
I am still moving forward and there I doubt a little, I have made a small prototype of an axial flow generator, for the moment there are only 4 coils which pass between the two disks of 12 magnets. As expected I have 1v per coil so 4.4v for the 4, then I connect the whole to a diode bridge which straightens all of this and gives me continuous 3.8v, until there impeccable.
The concern is as soon as I plug in a bulb (6v of small car) or other, the voltage drops to 1.2v continuous and 1.6v alternating before the diode bridge. Of course the goal is not to light the bulb because there is not enough voltage but it should not drop just consume amps.
If someone has an idea or tests to do, if it does the same with all my coils, it is to run my genesis empty that interests me.
Thank you in advance
I am still moving forward and there I doubt a little, I have made a small prototype of an axial flow generator, for the moment there are only 4 coils which pass between the two disks of 12 magnets. As expected I have 1v per coil so 4.4v for the 4, then I connect the whole to a diode bridge which straightens all of this and gives me continuous 3.8v, until there impeccable.
The concern is as soon as I plug in a bulb (6v of small car) or other, the voltage drops to 1.2v continuous and 1.6v alternating before the diode bridge. Of course the goal is not to light the bulb because there is not enough voltage but it should not drop just consume amps.
If someone has an idea or tests to do, if it does the same with all my coils, it is to run my genesis empty that interests me.
Thank you in advance
0 x
Hello,
Where do you live? in an often sunny region? if yes, I advise you to make a solar panel with soda cans (eco-friendly for that matter;)), if your wall is exposed to the south or if you have the possibility of orienting the panel in this direction. Look here: http: //www.coyotus.com/viewsujet.php? Pid = 1617
I built a small one (42 cans) to heat a small greenhouse when there is a ray that passes and well I can tell you that it is quite surprising: it rose to more than 38 ° C no later than 'yesterday and I live in Lille ... if you are going on this construction, I advise you to connect the panel (air inlet and outlet) to the house. Thus the air drawn in will be warmer than the outside air, you will gain a few calories. Also, on mine, I placed a small 12v fan at the bottom of the panel which is powered by a small 5W solar panel. So, when there is sun, everything starts up on its own and recovers a maximum of calories, when the sun also decreases ventilation, which makes it possible to avoid cooling the greenhouse, and when there is no sun, there is no ventilation, so no cooling either. It took me one or two days, counting the time for various drying, manufacturing of parts ... but a little more to collect all the necessary cans (in this regard it is better to take aluminum cans than steel, it does not depend on a brand or another, we can find two types of materials for a can of Coke for example. To be sure, you just need a magnet (it will not stick to aluminum).
Speaking of a magnet, for the wind turbine, if you're not stopping on your project, I also recommend that you take a look at the Piggott wind turbines. I recently finished a small 200 watt machine, it took me a while, I made mistakes (often stupid by the way) but that's it finally. It is not necessary to be an ultra handyman, I am not myself, but I asked for help from right to left (welding, electronics ...).
You can find a manual there for example: http://www.tieole.com/index.cfm?pageid=43
and materials to make the alternator there: http://www.tieole.com/index.cfm?pageid=29
They are competitive on prices, and above all very friendly and not stingy with advice. They are true enthusiasts.
Here, do not hesitate if you need more info (if it is in my strings!)
A+
Where do you live? in an often sunny region? if yes, I advise you to make a solar panel with soda cans (eco-friendly for that matter;)), if your wall is exposed to the south or if you have the possibility of orienting the panel in this direction. Look here: http: //www.coyotus.com/viewsujet.php? Pid = 1617
I built a small one (42 cans) to heat a small greenhouse when there is a ray that passes and well I can tell you that it is quite surprising: it rose to more than 38 ° C no later than 'yesterday and I live in Lille ... if you are going on this construction, I advise you to connect the panel (air inlet and outlet) to the house. Thus the air drawn in will be warmer than the outside air, you will gain a few calories. Also, on mine, I placed a small 12v fan at the bottom of the panel which is powered by a small 5W solar panel. So, when there is sun, everything starts up on its own and recovers a maximum of calories, when the sun also decreases ventilation, which makes it possible to avoid cooling the greenhouse, and when there is no sun, there is no ventilation, so no cooling either. It took me one or two days, counting the time for various drying, manufacturing of parts ... but a little more to collect all the necessary cans (in this regard it is better to take aluminum cans than steel, it does not depend on a brand or another, we can find two types of materials for a can of Coke for example. To be sure, you just need a magnet (it will not stick to aluminum).
Speaking of a magnet, for the wind turbine, if you're not stopping on your project, I also recommend that you take a look at the Piggott wind turbines. I recently finished a small 200 watt machine, it took me a while, I made mistakes (often stupid by the way) but that's it finally. It is not necessary to be an ultra handyman, I am not myself, but I asked for help from right to left (welding, electronics ...).
You can find a manual there for example: http://www.tieole.com/index.cfm?pageid=43
and materials to make the alternator there: http://www.tieole.com/index.cfm?pageid=29
They are competitive on prices, and above all very friendly and not stingy with advice. They are true enthusiasts.
Here, do not hesitate if you need more info (if it is in my strings!)
A+
0 x
He who sows the wind harvest ... happiness !!
For your prototype axial flow generator (what I had advised you to look through Piggott wind turbines for example friends that I had not seen because there is a second page), tell us a little: the generator is running at a regular speed? If you connect a load on it, it may be that the voltage and the intensity can decrease, if the rotation speed is not regular. The bulb (the load in question in this case) by consuming the current creates a resistance which can decrease the speed of rotation of the wind turbine and therefore the voltage and amperage ...
And I forgot to also tell you that the blades you can make them out of wood, by hand. No it is not very complicated, if it is the remark that you make yourself (having had the same myself!), With a flat flat sharpened well I put 2 hours per blade ... And they are top ( always CF Piggott!)
And I forgot to also tell you that the blades you can make them out of wood, by hand. No it is not very complicated, if it is the remark that you make yourself (having had the same myself!), With a flat flat sharpened well I put 2 hours per blade ... And they are top ( always CF Piggott!)
0 x
He who sows the wind harvest ... happiness !!
-
bidouille23
- Grand Econologue
- posts: 1155
- Registration: 21/06/09, 01:02
- Location: Britain BZH powaaa
- x 2
Hello
bricolo, a set of wind turbine blades is not the beginning of the wind turbine ...
Let's say that the start of your wind turbine is in the exact calculation of the energy requirement.
From the you make or recover or divert, a generator corresponding to your needs, or more ...
Once you have your generator, you measure all its mechanical and electrical characteristics ... Starting torque, no load, load, no load voltage, load (load on the circuit that you will use is better), load voltage, and corresponding rpm ...
From there you will suddenly have the characteristics allowing the creation of your blade game, with heliciel for example ...
Finally orient the blades is useless unless it is not fixed, which is not the case in the model that you present to us.
The blade root has more attack than blade tip, so more torque at start-up and more speed at the blade tip.
So your blade setting should be in the propeller plant. either if you have a zero angle at the tip of the blade you put it in the propeller plant.
If you do not know any of the characteristics of your blades, you risk at best that it works by an unexpected chance, at worst during a good gust of wind your rotor will accelerate and pass the electromagnetic brake of the generator, either it crashes and it blocks, either it burns it blocks nothing at all and it accelerates as much as it can until the limit of the sound barrier, there there will be reduction of blades or something much more likely a blade will come off or fart and everything will leave in unbalance to crash on the ground ...
I hacked a lot on the thing, my conclusions are simple:
a minimum of measurement tools, follow the design order, if you want to do everything by yourself.
Otherwise we greatly facilitate our lives by following already established and functional plans.
To rave and even produce and especially to learn, make sets of blades with drops of pvc tubes, with a diameter of at least 160 to 180 mm to have an open blade root angle ....
it turns quickly and it has torque, but it is "wind turbines by chance"
.... But with a small generator it does .... THE goal being not to need a multiplier, and therefore to find the sacred union between the electric force involved and the wind power possibly recoverable ...
you will see you have to make compromises because in the end, you will not be able to produce more than the wind allows, and never as much betz loie obliges ....
In the end, frankly, a little piggot if you want something that turns for a few years, it's not bad, provided you do it carefully and maintain it ...
An alternator is a mess ... you will have a hard time ... Here there are achievements, use the search "butterfly I think had made a beautiful one) ....
more and do not give up, but do not go all over the place ...
Fred
bricolo, a set of wind turbine blades is not the beginning of the wind turbine ...
Let's say that the start of your wind turbine is in the exact calculation of the energy requirement.
From the you make or recover or divert, a generator corresponding to your needs, or more ...
Once you have your generator, you measure all its mechanical and electrical characteristics ... Starting torque, no load, load, no load voltage, load (load on the circuit that you will use is better), load voltage, and corresponding rpm ...
From there you will suddenly have the characteristics allowing the creation of your blade game, with heliciel for example ...
Finally orient the blades is useless unless it is not fixed, which is not the case in the model that you present to us.
The blade root has more attack than blade tip, so more torque at start-up and more speed at the blade tip.
So your blade setting should be in the propeller plant. either if you have a zero angle at the tip of the blade you put it in the propeller plant.
If you do not know any of the characteristics of your blades, you risk at best that it works by an unexpected chance, at worst during a good gust of wind your rotor will accelerate and pass the electromagnetic brake of the generator, either it crashes and it blocks, either it burns it blocks nothing at all and it accelerates as much as it can until the limit of the sound barrier, there there will be reduction of blades or something much more likely a blade will come off or fart and everything will leave in unbalance to crash on the ground ...
I hacked a lot on the thing, my conclusions are simple:
a minimum of measurement tools, follow the design order, if you want to do everything by yourself.
Otherwise we greatly facilitate our lives by following already established and functional plans.
To rave and even produce and especially to learn, make sets of blades with drops of pvc tubes, with a diameter of at least 160 to 180 mm to have an open blade root angle ....
it turns quickly and it has torque, but it is "wind turbines by chance"
.... But with a small generator it does .... THE goal being not to need a multiplier, and therefore to find the sacred union between the electric force involved and the wind power possibly recoverable ...
you will see you have to make compromises because in the end, you will not be able to produce more than the wind allows, and never as much betz loie obliges ....
In the end, frankly, a little piggot if you want something that turns for a few years, it's not bad, provided you do it carefully and maintain it ...
An alternator is a mess ... you will have a hard time ... Here there are achievements, use the search "butterfly I think had made a beautiful one) ....
more and do not give up, but do not go all over the place ...
Fred
0 x
Hello,
well then i'm moving forward a lot, i finished my axial flow generator. When I reread it to a battery, it provides 12v and 1.5A at 300 rpm, little note when I reread it to a bulb I measure that 1.8v and 4A always at the same speed. Question:
- I would have liked to use an alternator regulator, i.e. connect the ref to the battery, the excitation to my generator and the brushes (max test 3A) to the battery because when the ref (battery) reaches 14v it cuts the excitement so the production. Problem I have two models and on both when I feed with two 9v batteries (so 18v) I can't cut the voltage of the brushes, I found the idea here http://voilier-idem.com/affich_contents.php?Ind=96
- is 1.5A enough to charge a car battery?
Thank you
well then i'm moving forward a lot, i finished my axial flow generator. When I reread it to a battery, it provides 12v and 1.5A at 300 rpm, little note when I reread it to a bulb I measure that 1.8v and 4A always at the same speed. Question:
- I would have liked to use an alternator regulator, i.e. connect the ref to the battery, the excitation to my generator and the brushes (max test 3A) to the battery because when the ref (battery) reaches 14v it cuts the excitement so the production. Problem I have two models and on both when I feed with two 9v batteries (so 18v) I can't cut the voltage of the brushes, I found the idea here http://voilier-idem.com/affich_contents.php?Ind=96
- is 1.5A enough to charge a car battery?
Thank you
0 x
-
bidouille23
- Grand Econologue
- posts: 1155
- Registration: 21/06/09, 01:02
- Location: Britain BZH powaaa
- x 2
Hi, I am rereading your subject and I see that your test generator is if I understand correctly:
12 magnets for 4 coils?
if this is the case, it does not respect the ratio of 1.33 which is the most optimized, apart from the multilayer ...
1.33 more magnets than coils .... basically 9 coils for 12 magnets ... it should work better already ...
use the shape of the magnet to make the coils ...
If you want to see a lot of achievements go to otherpower or other Australian site for example, they are teeming with construction and details ... and good forum ...
good continuation ...
12 magnets for 4 coils?
if this is the case, it does not respect the ratio of 1.33 which is the most optimized, apart from the multilayer ...
1.33 more magnets than coils .... basically 9 coils for 12 magnets ... it should work better already ...
use the shape of the magnet to make the coils ...
If you want to see a lot of achievements go to otherpower or other Australian site for example, they are teeming with construction and details ... and good forum ...
good continuation ...
0 x
As for the amperage output, I will tell you about what I know about lead-acid batteries in cars.
It is recommended not to exceed 1 / 10th of the "power" (it is probably not the exact word) of the battery.
If the battery is 10 Ampere hours, it should not exceed 1 Ampere. (otherwise the battery will last less time)
In your case with 1,5A, it would probably require a battery of 15Ah minimum.
On the other hand, a 12,5V battery charges with a current of about 14 V. It seems to me that at 14,7V AC becomes dangerous for the battery ...
With your 12V, I'm afraid you can't recharge the battery.
You will have to raise your blood pressure
SixK
It is recommended not to exceed 1 / 10th of the "power" (it is probably not the exact word) of the battery.
If the battery is 10 Ampere hours, it should not exceed 1 Ampere. (otherwise the battery will last less time)
In your case with 1,5A, it would probably require a battery of 15Ah minimum.
On the other hand, a 12,5V battery charges with a current of about 14 V. It seems to me that at 14,7V AC becomes dangerous for the battery ...
With your 12V, I'm afraid you can't recharge the battery.
You will have to raise your blood pressure
SixK
0 x
Hi guys, thanks for your feedback, so to start in order:
- hack, I looked for a while for the optimum number of magnets and coils and I did not find, and here I am a little more advanced than the test phase with two discs of 12 magnets and in the middle 12 coils. So I thought I would make a switch, that is to say connect the 12 coils in series to have 12v 1.5A at 270 rpm and manually with switches pass 2 x 6 coils in parallel to have 12v 3a at 500 rpm.
- SixK, I plan to use a car battery, which will be charged continuously but for the regulator it is not yet that.
Precisely ideas for a 12v (14v) regulator that cuts when the battery is full. Can it be homemade? or buy it but I have a budget of 40 €. On the sites he says not to use regulator of solar panels because there is no resistance of loads, me I do not care the wind turbine will have a speed regulator on the rudder.
I really need idea and support, it becomes technical
Thank you
- hack, I looked for a while for the optimum number of magnets and coils and I did not find, and here I am a little more advanced than the test phase with two discs of 12 magnets and in the middle 12 coils. So I thought I would make a switch, that is to say connect the 12 coils in series to have 12v 1.5A at 270 rpm and manually with switches pass 2 x 6 coils in parallel to have 12v 3a at 500 rpm.
- SixK, I plan to use a car battery, which will be charged continuously but for the regulator it is not yet that.
Precisely ideas for a 12v (14v) regulator that cuts when the battery is full. Can it be homemade? or buy it but I have a budget of 40 €. On the sites he says not to use regulator of solar panels because there is no resistance of loads, me I do not care the wind turbine will have a speed regulator on the rudder.
I really need idea and support, it becomes technical
Thank you
0 x
-
wirbelwind262
- Éconologue good!
- posts: 238
- Registration: 29/06/05, 11:58
- Location: Fouras
- x 29
Hello
you start playing with alternative and three-phase machine
starts with brushless motors in generator:
ex: http://supermodeles.pagesperso-orange.f ... %20bal.htm
https://systemesembarques.wordpress.com ... synchrone/
http://www.bavaria-direct.co.za/info/
http://krex.k-state.edu/dspace/bitstrea ... sequence=1
you start playing with alternative and three-phase machine
starts with brushless motors in generator:
ex: http://supermodeles.pagesperso-orange.f ... %20bal.htm
https://systemesembarques.wordpress.com ... synchrone/
http://www.bavaria-direct.co.za/info/
http://krex.k-state.edu/dspace/bitstrea ... sequence=1
0 x
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