It can also be the "ignition distributor", I don't know what it's called, it's the thing that distributes the spark to the right cylinder. There is none on my current car but I had one on my old renault. And when the central stud where the spark arrives is worn out, it goes badly and it causes these faults, it has already happened to me. She had trouble starting too.
If you have an ignition coil there is a good chance that you have one.
If connoisseurs know the exact name ...
Ramjet ... you know?
-
Former Oceano
- Moderator
- posts: 1571
- Registration: 04/06/05, 23:10
- Location: Lorraine - France
- x 1
Hello,
A Econology The Ram jet has been put in the section
Saver Miracle post of January 3, 2006 (one more)
As it is distributed in Quebec and most of the tests seem to have been done on American vehicles and I am well aware of how these tanks do (from miles to gallons)
I'm going to try to find something, one reliable to give us the correct time.
A little sprain on the subject, but useful to help out
As for tests on an ignition I will give you simple tips to use by resourceful people who live isolate far from large garages.
1 disconnect the central file which goes in the middle of the distributor, hold it at 25mm from the ground, give a starter kick, the spark must be dry blue with small yellow red ramifications, (if not it is the coil or the module or spikes that are missing)
2 reconnect the central wire and take a wire out of a candle and with an iron pin hold 10 or 15 mm from the iron with a starter blow
the spark is a little weaker than the previous test, but it may well spurt out, if not it could be the distributor finger, wet or cracked or dirty with carbon, or the distributor cap
The way to temporarily help out is to wipe and clean the finger with a dry klenex handkerchief paper, avoid touching it with the fingers, replace it by holding it in paper, and on the way to civilization (n don't forget to change it)
3 If the system has high electronic energy and the spark has become weak, for many reasons, the way to temporarily repair it is to dismantle the spark plugs and adjust the clearance to 0,5 mm instead of 1,2 mm, it pulls less, is less economical, but at least you can get out of the wood.
Now do not forget to change the candles from time to time, over time there is wear of the electrodes and the play can reach more than 1,4mm, the engine use in maximum filling conditions the compressed air and an insulator the spark cannot blow out, and it is not very long that the electronic module receives a reverse boost and jumps, complete failure, the same for a spark plug wire which has become non-conductive,
(Once the spark has been ordered, it must come out, otherwise it damages either the coil or the module, or even the distributor cap, it makes a trail of carbon.
Andre
A Econology The Ram jet has been put in the section
Saver Miracle post of January 3, 2006 (one more)
As it is distributed in Quebec and most of the tests seem to have been done on American vehicles and I am well aware of how these tanks do (from miles to gallons)
I'm going to try to find something, one reliable to give us the correct time.
A little sprain on the subject, but useful to help out
As for tests on an ignition I will give you simple tips to use by resourceful people who live isolate far from large garages.
1 disconnect the central file which goes in the middle of the distributor, hold it at 25mm from the ground, give a starter kick, the spark must be dry blue with small yellow red ramifications, (if not it is the coil or the module or spikes that are missing)
2 reconnect the central wire and take a wire out of a candle and with an iron pin hold 10 or 15 mm from the iron with a starter blow
the spark is a little weaker than the previous test, but it may well spurt out, if not it could be the distributor finger, wet or cracked or dirty with carbon, or the distributor cap
The way to temporarily help out is to wipe and clean the finger with a dry klenex handkerchief paper, avoid touching it with the fingers, replace it by holding it in paper, and on the way to civilization (n don't forget to change it)
3 If the system has high electronic energy and the spark has become weak, for many reasons, the way to temporarily repair it is to dismantle the spark plugs and adjust the clearance to 0,5 mm instead of 1,2 mm, it pulls less, is less economical, but at least you can get out of the wood.
Now do not forget to change the candles from time to time, over time there is wear of the electrodes and the play can reach more than 1,4mm, the engine use in maximum filling conditions the compressed air and an insulator the spark cannot blow out, and it is not very long that the electronic module receives a reverse boost and jumps, complete failure, the same for a spark plug wire which has become non-conductive,
(Once the spark has been ordered, it must come out, otherwise it damages either the coil or the module, or even the distributor cap, it makes a trail of carbon.
Andre
0 x
-
Former Oceano
- Moderator
- posts: 1571
- Registration: 04/06/05, 23:10
- Location: Lorraine - France
- x 1
Also think of the candle wires. They harden over time and end up not letting the current pass. On the bench this is seen because the peaks are higher for the wires of the defective bundle.
I had this on a new car coming out of Renault. For the first revision, I told them that it was spinning on 3 legs
. The mechanic hung a clamp, put a probe in the jar and after 15 seconds told me that it turned "like leaving the factory" 
. Inevitably with 1000 km on the odometer. I took the balls 
and I went to see real independent professionals who diagnosed 2 faulty sons, one of whom hardly drives. Change of beam and my Super5 GTR came out turning correctly. When at Renault, as they did not want to reimburse me for the control and the beam, they lost a customer for life 
.
So between the candles and the delco, think of the ignition harness!
I had this on a new car coming out of Renault. For the first revision, I told them that it was spinning on 3 legs
. The mechanic hung a clamp, put a probe in the jar and after 15 seconds told me that it turned "like leaving the factory" . Inevitably with 1000 km on the odometer. I took the balls and I went to see real independent professionals who diagnosed 2 faulty sons, one of whom hardly drives. Change of beam and my Super5 GTR came out turning correctly. When at Renault, as they did not want to reimburse me for the control and the beam, they lost a customer for life .
So between the candles and the delco, think of the ignition harness!
0 x
please
I read your solutions but it is apparently more complicated, new spark plugs, new igniter head, ignition network (wires) checked, the pb is rather in the electronic part or the throttle body or the regulator of fuel pressure (inlet injectors) which would fail with age (the granny is 16 years old and 300000 kms + the addition of LPG which can "wear out" this part prematurely if the tilting of the LPG does not cut the fuel pump. ...... I learned that yesterday). So I'm going to change this room.
I'll keep you informed.
I'll keep you informed.
0 x
Only when he has brought down the last tree, the last river contaminated, the last fish caught that man will realize that money is not edible (Indian MOHAWK).
Are you thinking about adjusting the valves? Driving on LPG
this should be done more often if the adjustment is not automatic.
According to my stepfather, this must be done every 20 km in
fueling at lpg, but as it swells me to do that outside in
winter or in the rain I wait to be forced when my R19 does not want
more start. This gives 30 km roughly. For my Clio, R000 and
R9 c was the same, the Megane has an automatic adjustment.
Do you have the same problems with LPG or petrol fuel?
If it is not the case, it could be the membrane of the regulator.
which is to replace. Not too expensive and not complicated to do.
hard is to find a company ready to sell one.
this should be done more often if the adjustment is not automatic.
According to my stepfather, this must be done every 20 km in
fueling at lpg, but as it swells me to do that outside in
winter or in the rain I wait to be forced when my R19 does not want
more start. This gives 30 km roughly. For my Clio, R000 and
R9 c was the same, the Megane has an automatic adjustment.
Do you have the same problems with LPG or petrol fuel?
If it is not the case, it could be the membrane of the regulator.
which is to replace. Not too expensive and not complicated to do.
hard is to find a company ready to sell one.
0 x
R25 issues resolved
Hello everybody
After this long interruption of forum, I come to tell you that my R25 purrs like a new one.
Thanks to an econology speaker (I will look for who and thank him) who gave me the name of a very complete site where we find among others the detailed diagrams and explanations of the RENIX electronic ignition system + info found on the site of the R25 club, from Saturday the engine was running normally.
INTERNET LIVE!!!
It was in fact an element out of control of the diagnostic outlet: the idle pressure regulator which is on the fuel supply pipe of the injectors. He was sending gasoline into the intake manifold through a small hose which normally creates a vacuum! Hence overfilling of petrol in the petrol or LPG mode intake, which explained the excessive richness and pollution at the exhaust outlet.
If we could resolve the focus on the pantone so quickly, that would be great.
Come on, guys. As for me, I will never mount a pantone on my 25 GPLisée ...
After this long interruption of forum, I come to tell you that my R25 purrs like a new one.
Thanks to an econology speaker (I will look for who and thank him) who gave me the name of a very complete site where we find among others the detailed diagrams and explanations of the RENIX electronic ignition system + info found on the site of the R25 club, from Saturday the engine was running normally.
INTERNET LIVE!!!
It was in fact an element out of control of the diagnostic outlet: the idle pressure regulator which is on the fuel supply pipe of the injectors. He was sending gasoline into the intake manifold through a small hose which normally creates a vacuum! Hence overfilling of petrol in the petrol or LPG mode intake, which explained the excessive richness and pollution at the exhaust outlet.
If we could resolve the focus on the pantone so quickly, that would be great.
Come on, guys. As for me, I will never mount a pantone on my 25 GPLisée ...
0 x
Only when he has brought down the last tree, the last river contaminated, the last fish caught that man will realize that money is not edible (Indian MOHAWK).
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