Ecological impact of an old vehicle

Tips, advice and tips to lower your consumption, processes or inventions as unconventional engines: the Stirling engine, for example. Patents improving combustion: water injection plasma treatment, ionization of the fuel or oxidizer.
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Flytox
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by Flytox » 05/04/09, 14:00

Hello Woodcutter
Woodcutter wrote:I invert platelets at a certain time, it compensates the asymmetrical wear ...


And you have never been very frightened at the first braking, like as if you weren't braking, so you put your foot on the pedal and it blocks only one side, the car that swerves .... I did the test only once .... and I almost eat the sidewalk with my R5 : Mrgreen: Fortunately I had foreseen that it was going to go wrong and was going slowly. I will not do it again : Mrgreen: promised! And then the car pulling to one side every time you brake, it's average ... even after "breaking in" the pads ...: Cry:

It can be playable when the brake discs are worn flat and the disc thickness is constant from top to bottom. But when you already have a few small grooves and a slightly "conical" disc (a few 1/10 mm is enough), it becomes much more random.

In fact it greatly limits the surface of the wafer really in contact with the disc and it does anything, the time that the wafer is done on its new track. The safety of the people we transport and those we meet is still more expensive than a set of tags !!!
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by the middle » 05/04/09, 14:17

Hello everybody
When the car makers stop playing c ..
So there will be no reason to change cars for a yes or a no.
Often, the discussions revolve on the subject of style, ho Ford, it consumes too much, ho, French car, the bodywork .. not terrible, Japanese, ha! it's good, but spare parts are expensive ...
In short, manufacturers do not want to make a good car, that's the problem.! you don't have to be an engineer to understand it.
Let them make a "standard" car from the point of view of safety, rust, with the possibility of adapting an engine to technological developments, and everything will be better. :D
No?
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bebeours
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by bebeours » 05/04/09, 14:28

To answer the question of departure, here is what I think.
An old car certainly has a higher consumption, a higher pollution per km traveled. But...
As previously mentioned, a car already has a significant oil weight when it leaves the factory.
The blow of a new car is much heavier.
An old car responds better to pantone, AVEC, hvb, hydrogen, etc. modifications, even to the point of being able to compete with a new car.
Without counting the weight which is more and more important and which in a global way affects the circulation. (Bx break1992: ~ 1000kg, Getz 2008: ~ 1400kg)
Not to mention that changing cars is not always done with intelligence. Changing a sedan to an SUV does absolutely nothing for the planet.
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by chatelot16 » 05/04/09, 22:50

it's not just modern cars whose consumption is decreasing

I have several citroen gs and gsa: their consumption also decreases without any modification: simply because I drive slower

20 years ago I drove at 150 as long as the road allowed and it was 12 liters per 100

now it's 6 liters per 100 while driving slowly and often very loaded: it's easy to load station wagons: I could never carry the same thing with more recent cars: we would have to make several trips ...

I have always driven with the same model of car, I have it all in the garden: it makes me a good stock of spare parts!
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by the middle » 06/04/09, 06:37

:D
I have it all in the garden

Well that makes at least three of them doing that on econo :D
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by Leo Maximus » 06/04/09, 15:04

AV brake pads after 150000 km. It's a stirrup single piston but the wear is roughly the same for both pads. Quality exists.

The tab on the side is a tuning fork. When the plate is good to change, the tuning fork rubs the edge of the disc and emits a sharp noise, it is AMHA much simpler, more reliable and more economical than the electrical connection which lights an indicator on the dashboard. We can not reverse the pads but anyway it would be useless because the wear is the same.

Long lasting, two, even three times more than ordinary pads, ultra simple and effective wear warning, these are eco-friendly pads! 8)



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by Flytox » 06/04/09, 18:47

Hello maximum leo

The next time I exchange the pads, I disassemble the piston and change the O-ring with a lip. The system which is supposed to start the piston back a few 1/10 mm after braking. Not sure that they detail this joint, usually they only sell the mini kit which contains only the essential parts (Wheel, tire, hub, ball joints, suspension, cardan, disc, caliper, pads, hydraulic hose, anti roll bar .. .and I have to forget about it) and for the modest sum of 1200 euros ttc. : Evil: : Mrgreen:
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http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
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by Woodcutter » 06/04/09, 21:23

Flytox wrote:Hello Woodcutter
Woodcutter wrote:I invert platelets at a certain time, it compensates the asymmetrical wear ...


And you have never had a big fright at the first braking, like as if you weren't braking, so you put your foot on the pedal and it blocks only one side, the car that swerves
No never !

Flytox wrote:And then the car pulling to one side every time you brake, it's average ... even after "breaking in" the pads ...: Cry:
It never did that to me either ...

Flytox wrote:It can be playable when the brake discs are worn flat and the disc thickness is constant from top to bottom. But when you already have a few small grooves and a slightly "conical" disc (a few 1/10 mm is enough), it becomes much more random.
"Corner" wear, I don't know, maybe it's the same on both sides? And grooves, it does not bother at all, no more than putting new pads on a worn disc (maybe even less, by the way!)

Flytox wrote:In fact it greatly limits the surface of the wafer really in contact with the disc and it does anything, the time that the wafer is done on its new track. The safety of the people we transport and those we meet is still more expensive than a set of tags !!!
Well listen, either you screw up or I'm lucky, but I never had a "anything, as long as the brochure is made on its new track"and yet I have done much worse in terms of disc / plate marriage ...

At the same time, I'm not a complete moron and I "feel" very well how my car reacts: if there is a decrease in braking performance, I know it.
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by Leo Maximus » 06/04/09, 22:03

Flytox wrote:Hello maximum leo
The next time I exchange the pads, I disassemble the piston and change the O-ring with a lip. The system which is supposed to start the piston back a few 1/10 mm after braking. Not sure that they detail this joint, usually they only sell the mini kit which contains only the essential parts (Wheel, tire, hub, ball joints, suspension, cardan, disc, caliper, pads, hydraulic hose, anti roll bar .. .and I have to forget about it) and for the modest sum of 1200 euros ttc. : Evil: : Mrgreen:

Keep us posted, but I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't change asymmetrical wear.
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