Drawing for the bubbler water doping?

Tips, advice and tips to lower your consumption, processes or inventions as unconventional engines: the Stirling engine, for example. Patents improving combustion: water injection plasma treatment, ionization of the fuel or oxidizer.
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Flytox
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by Flytox » 26/10/12, 21:34

Your air solution should work well :P

For the dimensions of the bubbler, to try to make it "compact", with the least inertia (volume of water) possible, for a faster start, it should be rather higher (or as high) than wide (not like in the diagram). It takes (10 cm?) Bubbling height, after the diameter of the bubbler must just allow the bubbles to rise "properly" and accommodate the temperature control etc ... If the bubbler has to heat several liters of water it died for the rapidity of heating.
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RV-P
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by RV-P » 28/10/12, 17:23

- Here is an idea for the construction of the bubbler:
Image
- For the assembly of the edge of the pleated sheet to the walls, if the welding is difficult, we can consider bonding with a pasty glue resistant to heat.
- Under the middle of the fins, perpendicular to them, it is possible to consider placing an obstacle to force the exhaust gases to "lick" the fins.
- It's an assembly idea. If you have better, don't hesitate!
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by Flytox » 28/10/12, 21:23

The project takes a turn :P 8)

RV-P wrote:- For the assembly of the edge of the pleated sheet to the walls, if the welding is difficult, we can consider bonding with a pasty glue resistant to heat.

Soldering without problems more than soldering ...., for bonding given the temperature differences / induced deformations, AMHA will not work.

Attention, the constant level is very bad and easily does anything as soon as the pressure upstream, downstream, water inlet, venting vary too much / reverses and / or it is shaken. There are many who have never managed to make it work properly on a bubbler .... There are many other systems that work better, do not deprive yourself. : Mrgreen:

If you make small holes for the passage of air at the bottom of the central cane, you must prevent large bubbles from escaping on the sides, otherwise the air will not pass through the small holes.

Do you have an idea of ​​the calorstat to use? The models that I know seem difficult to operate as drawn.
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Reason is the madness of the strongest. The reason for the less strong it is madness.

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by RV-P » 29/10/12, 11:32

Flytox wrote:Do you have an idea of ​​the calorstat to use? The models that I know seem difficult to operate as drawn.

- Yes: a calorstat recovered in this box (or a similar box) which mounts at the end of the cylinder head of a Megane 1,9D, for example:
Image
- The calorstat is removable, therefore recoverable! You can even test it by heating it with a hair dryer, and you will see the size of the rod coming out to adapt the valve!
Flytox wrote:There are lots of other systems that work better, don't hesitate. : Mrgreen:

- Oh: it's just an idea by the way! By the way: did you notice a vertical notch drawn in the float? This is so that water can pass while respecting the guidance of the soft friction float in its cockpit!
Flytox wrote:If you make small holes for the passage of air at the bottom of the central cane, you must prevent large bubbles from escaping on the sides, otherwise the air will not pass through the small holes

- Uh ... it's just so that the water crosses the bubbler, being sucked in by the bubbles that rise (faster heating)! Because the bubbler is perforated above and below (additional idea)!
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by Flytox » 29/10/12, 22:08

RV-P wrote:- The calorstat is removable, therefore recoverable! You can even test it by heating it with a hair dryer, and you will see the size of the rod that comes out to adapt the valve


This is part of the difficulties, if you heat it too much ... I'm not sure it likes a long time .... The calorstat must both bathe in the water of the bubbler but push the valve on the hot gas side. If it is he who makes the partition / seal between water and gas, how do you make sure that he will never overheat with the part that grows in hot gases, with a low water level for example. Or then it is necessary that the part which pushes pass the bulkhead of the bubbler somewhere to actuate your valve ...... not terrible : Cry:

The calorstat and the valve might be better outside the bubbler. The calorstat with the head in the water and the pusher part which directly attacks the valve, and all at a "liveable" temperature .... For adjustment and maintenance it is also more favorable to the outside. : Mrgreen:

There is another problem, automotive thermostats are usually completely closed like below 85 ° and fully open at 90 ° ... and are not adjustable. If you notice an offset with the temperature you want to obtain, you must change the calorstat ....:| According to André, 90 ° and more is too hot, and we no longer produce "good" steam. In the pages of Mr David, there is a description where the calorstat is not automotive but central heating .... (larger adjustment range and lower temperature range?)

In your place I would put the valve with an adjustable high and low stop and a system to switch gently from one to the other from the passenger compartment. Once you have mastered your setup, using a thermometer, you will know where it should go. As well 2 positions are sufficient (with cold donf and on the adjustable stop the rest of the time). : Mrgreen:
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Reason is the madness of the strongest. The reason for the less strong it is madness.

[Eugène Ionesco]

http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
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by RV-P » 30/10/12, 08:59

- I think I could draw inspiration from this diagram, which appeared on page 9 of Michel David:
Image
, for the realization of the thermo-controlled valve! It places a second calorstat to "bubble" at the desired temperature.
- It is therefore necessary to find adjustable calorstats. But I think that with "a little" trick, we could regulate on a narrow temperature range (80-95 °) ... To see, therefore!
- I will soon get down to work for another scheme! I think I will modify the bubbler too ...
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by RV-P » 30/10/12, 12:03

- Voili-voilou : Cheesy: ! Something promised, something due:
Image
- A detail: the pivot of the rocker between the calorstat and the valve stem is adjustable to adjust the amplitude of the valve travel.
- Comments ? Welcome!
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by Other » 31/10/12, 02:06

Hello

For simplicity? your bubbler is a lot of work to do for an uncertain result. (unless you are well equipped with time in front of you)

Simplicity is a bubbler heated with water from the stable and regular engine, if the exchanger is large enough that the bubbler not too large in water it works and it is simple.
We must also think of being able to clean it, over time a kind of mud accumulates at the bottom, and before looking for a complete automticity, level, water temperature preferable to test the assembly on car to know what value are sharp temperature water, level, depression, so that it works next comes the fine improvement.
Also do not have any illusion on small journeys and many cold runs there is not only the bubbler who does not want to walk there is also the reactor.

On the Chevrolet Lumina gasoline ejector I have a bubbler
heated exhaust I have had one for many years designed to work even when the water is block of galce.
To do without a complex regulatory system to achieve and difficult to keep running. The water leaves a lot of residue and it even disturbs the stainless steel or brass systems. the exhaust in a diesel is bastard and it clogs the mechanisms
To make it simple I took a 5 liter stainless steel tank like a fairly high bottle, I passed the exhaust two turns of copper tube at the bottom. For small trips little water, for the long trip the higher level, the heating does not manage to boil the water, the cold air of the bubbling and and the outside cooling of the bubbler prevents it from boiling.

On the diesl 300D the water is injected pneumatically with the air from the turbo
To know the influence on the water temperature I made a mini heater of 0,5 liters of water constant level control epa run electric pump and level detector, electric heating on the 12 volt of the battery is 14 amperes, with an indoor thermometer and switch for OFF ON (obviously this is experimental it is just to have a way to heat the water at different temperatures and make sure that it has an effect.
Because taking 14 amps from the alternator to heat water when there is heat available is absurd.

I am still on the tests and the cold autumn season does not allow me to have figures comparable to those of summer and also in 15 days I give the diesel until April.
No obvious difference between water at room temperature 35C under the hood or 90C (the tests are very long and repeated several times)

First things to do a simple assembly, which works without being perfection, then plan to modify it quickly, the reactor inlet, bubbler easily changeable and modifiable in water level and also the depression which determines bubbling.

In your corner of the country There was a guy with the pseudo ZAC on this forum who worked on water doping and runs on diesel oil. (I must have his name somewhere in our coresspondance) he was partizant of the water mini-carburetor and me too, although I have evolved with the spraying of water with the air pressure of the turbo ..

Andre

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RV-P
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by RV-P » 31/10/12, 15:52

Andrew wrote:the exhaust in a diesel is bastard and it clogs the mechanisms

- Yes, but you forget something: on this page, it is well written:
Thus empirically it happens to let pass only 1/3 of the ambient air. Little by little, the results improve and the big glutton who consumed 21 liters / hour of the precious GO, is satisfied with 10 liters and adjustment after adjustment, the engine running better and better, getting rid of its old scale, consumption drops to 5 liters with a few liters of water.

Et the pot spits one transparent vapor practically odorless et the white handkerchief stays white : bet won!

This is whereAntoine attacks the MF of 60 CV sidelined because he is a spitting black environmental poisoner and who needs a long exhaust riser so as not to get intoxicated, says Antoine's wife.

When he presented it to us, he was particularly proud of it: a single reactor, installed on the side, removed riser, and one minute after starting, the tissue test is conclusive.

- Therefore the system CLEANS the exhaust gases, and a tissue White presented as a filter at the end of the exhaust pipe REMAIN WHITE ! So, for fouling, "you will iron"!
- So the valve stem will stay clean and will slide well normally! The "water doping" in G-Pantone, it is done precisely to DEPOLLOW (and at the same time, consume less!)! Even a modern car with a latest generation catalytic converter does not "come close" because catalytic converters "break" particles which sink deeper into the lungs than particles which come out of a converter " normal "(and these particles are carcinogenic!)! The G-Pantone system turns GO into GAS, so thatthere are NO more particles leaving the exhaust. And it works better on a Diesel than on a petrol!
Did you read the ENTIRE "Quant'home" site correctly before you form an opinion? I did it. And it is from there that I designed "my" model of bubbler with rapid heating! As for the reactor, since it does not contain water, it heats up even faster ...
- @ +!
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Other
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by Other » 31/10/12, 18:58

Hello
Don't get mad, I'm just trying to warn you not to get into a complex task that is difficult to achieve for meager results. Drawing something, finding the execution method, realizing it are all factors that take time and investment.
to design something experimental and to design something paratic, functional, and simple is something else.

- Did you read the ENTIRE "Quant'home" site well before forming your opinion? I did it. And it is from there that I designed "my" model of bubbler with rapid heating! As for the reactor, since it does not contain water, it heats up even faster ...


Yes i remember in the early 2000s
Obviously that I read, and many others thereafter and also I try ... and try .... many things that I read, look for rods of inconel, of pure nickel, nickel beads all at great prices, try foggers and many things to understand that all that is written on the net? if the assemblies are not made test and tested and measure in a precise way, it is not always the pure truth.
Trust those who have done measured tests, on Quant'home you have those who have traveled to Morocco there you have credible figures that resemble those I get and several montages, You will notice that the construction of their bubbler is very simple and operational.
There is certain thing that you will understand when you will have made an assembly on your car, to make an assembly it is relatively simple and fast a few days of work for a neat assembly in stainless steel, to make the test and improvement, arm yourself patient if you want to exceed 30% savings and go out to the exhaust without fummée pet. (I never got a white exhaust pipe like milk on my diesel it is charcoal black and I even think when I pass it 2 liters of water per 100km it remains black.)

Andre
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