Fuel savings with acetone?

Tips, advice and tips to lower your consumption, processes or inventions as unconventional engines: the Stirling engine, for example. Patents improving combustion: water injection plasma treatment, ionization of the fuel or oxidizer.
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Woodcutter
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by Woodcutter » 10/08/08, 23:26

Go and see there, now:
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France
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by France » 31/01/12, 01:00

Hello,

I make 5.1L with my 1.2L Essence MPI from 1996.

I reduced my consumption by 0.4L by over-inflating my tires to 2.5 Bars.

And about 0.1L with 2 "Energy" tires. I intend to replace the other 2 once worn.

I was wondering if I could see an improvement with a little bit of acetone (60mL) for 43L. (I consume less at SP98, probably because 95 is less energetic because of the 5% "bio" ethanol)

What if you had other tips for consuming less?

(I plan to put a more fluid engine oil when cold to limit losses, by taking a good promo oil and spacing the next drain if 100% synthetic)


PS: I drive very calm the first few kilometers but once the engine is warm (oil and water), I get started as quickly as possible at cruising speed because I noticed that I consumed less like that. (by launching myself quietly without under-diet, etc ... I consume +)

New air filter
New fuel filter
Injectors and ignition OK (new multi-electrode spark plugs)

Thank you

:D
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by Obamot » 31/01/12, 05:16

This is what kipkay, an ace of home made solutions, does:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHAUsGlfbx8

He says that it is a set of measures that must be taken, he explains why. In particular, he suggests removing the spare tire and replacing it with a puncture bomb. Because he says, we don't often die, however we carry around all the time with this wheel which weighs a certain weight, which necessarily increases consumption, etc.

A simple measure is to group all your shopping (never make a round trip for a single purpose, if it is for example to go to work, it costs much less to take public transport or your bike ... .)

But actually, I had asked our chemist, to put acetone in these old engines, improves carburetion and therefore reduces consumption. On the new latest generation engines that have become hyper sharp, I would ask to see ...

Perhaps it would be better to run on ethanol, having previously chosen a vehicle PLANNED FOR (otherwise we have all the chances to shoot the joints and boil the engine) ...

And the best savings guaranteed are by cycling or walking ...
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France
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by France » 31/01/12, 11:42

Hello,

I do - 15000km per year.

If not the spare tire, yes why not.

But ethanol I don't really want to get into it, I don't really know if it's cleaner than petrol from petroleum in the end. (fertilizer, tractor feed, etc.)
And I have no flex-fuel, if at full load my calculator badly manages the ethanol and that I roll too poor: pistons perceived as we can see examples on the internet.
And in 2013 the subsidies risk being removed.

Otherwise in the video, I did roughly the same, filters, tire pressures, soon the oil + fluid ... : Lol:

Thank you
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by Flytox » 31/01/12, 20:29

France wrote:Otherwise in the video, I did more or less the same, filters, tire pressures, soon oil + fluid... : Lol:


With a better oil (synthesis), you should not be wrong, you will have a small gain. But for another "more rustic" oil, you have to watch that what you "gain" in viscosity at low temperature (short trip start) that you do not lose it at high temperature (highway, mountain etc ...). The synthesis is superior in this, the usable viscosity range is very large.

In general the choice of oil is a compromise, use, performance, wear, oil consumption, scale etc ... and the one you are recommended is not stupid ... and errors are expensive. ... : Mrgreen:
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by antoinet111 » 31/01/12, 20:38

for example, in my motorcycle, normally it's 10w30, I ride in 5w60, it's the best of the best.
level wear, that see, consumption level, I don't know, I'm not an econologist on my Gsx-R. : Mrgreen:


and in my boxes, I put a bottom of 50cl bottle of acetone in my diesel from time to time, the really my consumption changes on long journey.
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by Flytox » 31/01/12, 21:54

Acetone boils at 56 °. How long can it stay in a tank mixed with gasoline or diesel before evaporating?
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by antoinet111 » 31/01/12, 21:58

thirty seconds max, that's why I have better results by bringing acetone before diesel, it brews and I think I have less loss like that.
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by France » 31/01/12, 22:46

My engine accepts all "normal" oils.

So from 5Wyy to 15Wyy and from xxW30 to xxW50.

After you are right it is according to the use.

I currently have a 10W40 semi-synth.

I think I turn to a 5W40 100% synth.

I would also like to put an oil + cold fluid in my box.
A 100% synthetic Castrol V FE for example. (more fluid when cold than the original Elf, and almost equivalent to "hot").

Maybe a game of rockers. It soon has 200 km and does not consume a drop of oil.

But the acetone diluted in the fuel evaporates less quickly I think, only the one in contact with the surface evaporates. No ?
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by Obamot » 01/02/12, 08:21

Oil type
Mostly DO NOT CHANGE oil on an engine with as many km and almost fifteen years!

I strongly advise against it (as it was strongly advised against by the teachers of a mechanical school ...).

They even advised me to stay in cheap basic mineral oil, but to change oil more often ... I ended up opting for semi-synthetic, with the approval of the chief mechanic and the general representation of the brand ... It didn't have too many km yet ...

Keep the semi-synthetic, making an up-grade in synthetic is more aggressive for certain engine seals and can shoot them in unfavorable cases.

So change fluidity IF NECESSARY, but not type.

Oil & fuel

Interesting remark from an enthusiast, who makes in vintage vehicles

Pierre rotilom.com wrote:About gasoline ...

Since the disappearance of super leaded fuel, a lot has been said about the fuel adapted to our old vehicles.

There are as many opinions as there are collectors and everyone has their own idea on the question but it is not necessarily the best, nor the most accurate.

Without being a substitute for a potassium additive that we are forced to use since the super has recently disappeared from the pumps (in principle the year 2003 was to be the last ...), we collected a tip from a collector seems very interesting to us to reduce the wear of the cylinders.

This consists of adding in essence 0,5% synthetic oil (and not semi-synthetic) for 2-stroke engine. The risk of scaling is reduced due to the nature of the oil which withstands very high temperatures without carbon and the low rate in petrol.
This rate is still sufficient to lubricate the cylinder heads, especially during cold starts. We can also think of a beneficial effect on the side of the valve stems, but perhaps not sufficient to replace the anti-recession additive. For the latter, when the engine runs for a long time at the same speed with the accelerator sufficiently depressed (motorway, for example), the pressure in the cylinders does not favor the penetration of oil from the rocker arm compartment (this for overhead valves ). In the past, it was recommended to "ease off" from time to time to create a vacuum in the cylinders and thus create a film of oil on the valve stems. On the other hand, a slight fatty deposit forms in the exhaust line, which can only delay corrosion by acid condensations (short trips which are harmful or five-minute starts in cold weather must be avoided) . As the tank is slightly greasy, there is less corrosion by condensation (to delay this phenomenon, it is sufficient to keep the tank always full). The gasoline sprayed into the carburetor being slightly oily, it lubricates the throttle shaft.

After four years of testing (and almost two liters of CASTROL TTS or TSX oil) on a CG125 Honda 4-stroke motorcycle engine, we did not find any scaling, either on the piston or on the spark plug. The year 2004 therefore saw the generalization of this process across the entire fleet (6 vehicles).

Also pay attention to the new 95-E10 fuel which is increasingly replacing the SP95. Under false pretenses of preserving the environment, we are added another 5% in addition to ethanol (hence E10) which can lead to serious malfunction in our engines. Ethanol can cause corrosion problems and amplified attack on rubber membranes and cork seals. On the other hand, since ethanol is less energetic than petrol, consumption is increased and the richness of the mixture is reduced, which leads to overheating of the engine without perceiving rattling, since ethanol increases the index of octane. The only solution when we have no choice, would be to increase the size of the sprinklers, so consume even more!

Morality: That SP98 even for our modern cars [Edit Obamot: when only SP-E10 is offered at the pump].


As for ethanol - crazy, we are giving you even if you did not ask for it - and as seen above, for me it is finished forever ...
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