Making an extruder Pellets

crude vegetable oil, diester, bio-ethanol or other biofuels, or fuel of vegetable origin ...
titiyador
I understand econologic
I understand econologic
posts: 119
Registration: 26/01/09, 21:03
x 2




by titiyador » 30/01/11, 19:49

Hello,

The photos I took are too large to be placed. Do you have an email address so I can send it to you?

as for the grains, I place them directly as the seller told me and no problem, in a few seconds it is nothing more than flour, then pellets.

I just found where the noise came from: a "star" in a sort of plastic with 6 branches allowing the motor to "connect" to the horizontal axis going towards the reducer has only 3 branches! 3 others have completely melted, I do not know for what. I contacted the seller to find out what may have happened. I am surprised because I respected the precautions for use and the machine only turned 4 hours maximum ...

Sorry I don't have the mechanical jargon ... [/ img]
0 x
He who sows the wind harvest ... happiness !!
dedeleco
Econologue expert
Econologue expert
posts: 9211
Registration: 16/01/10, 01:19
x 10




by dedeleco » 30/01/11, 20:18

There are both free software to compact images huge unnecessarily in jpg, like irfanview, free, which reduces the desired factor with very little loss of quality:
http://www.irfanview.com/
that I use, lots of possibilities !!


I have the impression to read a few lines, that the manufacturers do not make all the same pellets, and that they add binders and products of a few%, which by hardening do not require to heat at 180 ° C at very great pace with a huge machine !!
Sawdust wet with a little glue or wood resin will hold unofficial granules without heating to 180 ° C.

Even shredded newsprint, then wet with a little gum arabic, put in a mold, then dried, makes very hard solid objects like wood without heating to more than 25 ° C (remember puppet heads made child as well, stronger than plastic).

Also I am not convinced of the obligation to go through large hyper-powerful and fast, hyper-expensive machines, which overheat, to compact sawdust with great violence, while it compacts with certainty with a little glue or gum arabic or the residual pine sap which sticks very well, without heating strongly!!

Finally, wood at 180 ° C begins either to burn in the air or to decompose !!!
In my opinion it is excessive.

And there is no valid scientific reason not to be able to make your burning pellets !!
Even if we invent standards to put a stick in the wheel, complicating life and blocking competition.

Like logs, nothing prevents drying in the sun in a simple solar dryer, before and after.

Everything is good to block, even the nettle manure could be prohibited to promote herbicides, pesticides and GMOs !!
0 x
lv13r
I understand econologic
I understand econologic
posts: 147
Registration: 30/12/04, 10:09




by lv13r » 30/01/11, 20:49

I totally agree with you dedeleco
I have to go see a neighbor who makes his caps himself for his cows, he has an extruder, it must not be a big one,
I will take pictures if he agrees
for the binder do you think that frying oil in small quantities would do it? for straw pellets only.

ttiyador i send you my mail in mp
please
lionel
0 x
dedeleco
Econologue expert
Econologue expert
posts: 9211
Registration: 16/01/10, 01:19
x 10




by dedeleco » 30/01/11, 21:17

You need something that hardens in the air when drying: a drying oil for painting on (very expensive linen), for frying I don't know, if it hardens with air on a surface, probably a little.
You have to try and see a few days later and see the right concentration to stick the sawdust a little, but not between pellets ???
It all depends on the desired solidity of the granules.
0 x
titiyador
I understand econologic
I understand econologic
posts: 119
Registration: 26/01/09, 21:03
x 2




by titiyador » 30/01/11, 21:31

Okay, normally dry sawdust (put it in the oven or in the microwave before if it is not dry enough) with a little sunflower oil (or the cheapest in the supermarket, for me it was that) , and it holds up well. Also if it is necessary to "clean" the die or the rollers of its rust, it is necessary to put 1/3 of compressor sand (very fine), 1/3 of oil and 1/3 of dry sawdust. Pass the granules several times.

well after that it's just my experience. In my opinion with frying oil it can not hurt anyway. You must try.
0 x
He who sows the wind harvest ... happiness !!
User avatar
chatelot16
Econologue expert
Econologue expert
posts: 6960
Registration: 11/11/07, 17:33
Location: Angouleme
x 264




by chatelot16 » 30/01/11, 21:52

what is your compressor sand?

completely undesirable in a fuel! neither fuel nor binder, it will only add ash and abrasive to wear out the pellet machine faster!

sand for compressor, if it's Chinese poorly translated it can be sand for sanding ... completely stupid to put it in flasks

binder oil or other to make pelet? economically catastrophic

sunflower or rapeseed oil, it is useless it is not sicative ... the only sicative oil like linseed oil or walnut oil are too expensive to serve this!

the only profitable way to make pelet is to heat to melt the lignin and make without anything other than sawdust

if the pelet machine is not powerful enough and does not heat enough a solution is to heat the sawdust before putting it in the machine ... or to heat part of the machine ...

the powerful machines which heat only by the loss of mechanical energy do not seem to me the right solution ... heating with a noble energy like electricity or mechanical energy ... it seems to me better to make a machine which does not heat by mechanical energy, but which is heated by a fireplace
0 x
titiyador
I understand econologic
I understand econologic
posts: 119
Registration: 26/01/09, 21:03
x 2




by titiyador » 30/01/11, 22:22

No, you didn't understand what I meant. The mixture with the super fine sand is to clean the matrix or the rollers of their rust. The pellets obtained are not intended for burning, on the contrary, they must be kept for use as soon as you finish passing your sawdust or other. Thus, they grease the holes in the matrix and prevent it from becoming blocked by material which could contract and become fixed for good in the holes.

By passing this fatty mixture, the matrix and the rollers remain new and clean.
0 x
He who sows the wind harvest ... happiness !!
dedeleco
Econologue expert
Econologue expert
posts: 9211
Registration: 16/01/10, 01:19
x 10




by dedeleco » 30/01/11, 22:54

There are lots of things that stick and that cost almost nothing!
fish or wood glue = cooked fish waste that sticks !!
new pine resin which flows well and sticks even better on car bodies.
Fresh pine sawdust sticks well with the remaining resin.
It takes little well mixed with another sawdust to stick
The sap of other fresh plants can be used as a glue when drying, even if it is less sticky than resin.

Sawdust at 180 ° C burns, bronze, blackens and risks catching fire if poorly controlled.
0 x
titiyador
I understand econologic
I understand econologic
posts: 119
Registration: 26/01/09, 21:03
x 2




by titiyador » 30/01/11, 23:00

For my part, the pellets do not come out at 180 ° unless I have a very thick hand skin, I hold the pellets for a few seconds without worry. I would rather say that, provided the machine is well supplied, the temperature does not exceed 80 ° C.

See you, Tim.
0 x
He who sows the wind harvest ... happiness !!
dedeleco
Econologue expert
Econologue expert
posts: 9211
Registration: 16/01/10, 01:19
x 10




by dedeleco » 30/01/11, 23:39

At 80 ° C already not bad, it dries quickly.
You can stick with a little paraffin which hardens when cold.
or any product that melts at around 30 ° or 40 ° C.
0 x

 


  • Similar topics
    Replies
    views
    Last message

Back to "biofuels, biofuels, biofuels, BtL, non-fossil alternative fuels ..."

Who is online ?

Users browsing this forum : No registered users and 103 guests