I haven't seen the video, but someone posting 5,82 loses all credibility for me!
1) We do not measure the pH of a soil, but that of the soil solution: the pH of a soil X at a location Y depends on how it is measured ... a standardized measurement (soil analysis laboratory): it is not then more "precise", it is just that all the values of this laboratory are comparable ...
2) An optimum pH is a compromise between 36 things:
- the life of soil organisms, some of which prefer acidic environments (fungi), others neutrality (bacteria); worms hardly support acidic pH (it "tickles" their skin - like a coca-cola the mucous membrane of your mouth) -, so already, it depends on who you choose to favor ...
- plants: the "need" of plants is variable; while a large majority prefer soil around neutrality, some are acidophilic, others prefer alkaline soils (actually, not really, but they need a lot of calcium, which induces an alkaline pH).
- certain essential elements become insoluble when the pH becomes acidic
- others when it becomes alkaline (for example iron; yellowing of the leaves, except the ribs, then appears, called chlorosis)
See on this document the variations in solubility of certain elements:
http://www.cannagardening.ca/fr-ca/le_p ... os_plantes3) I think that nature is naturally well made and a pile of well made compost tends towards neutrality or a very slight acidity (probably the activity of mushrooms in the maturation phase).
I think a pH recommendation is bound to be a wide "range" and probably falls on the side of light acidity. For me, I think a benchmark is 6 to 6,5 and that 1 unit around this area, there is no need to panic anyone! Not to mention the fact that "it depends" on what you are going to plant ... Plants of forest origin (red fruits, strawberries) probably prefer a lower pH.