New lazy 04 kitchen garden

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

Super.
Currently we eat one day out of two or three.

That said like you, the rounds are longer to mature.
In fact with the absence of rain even the half dead of the outside leave and have tomatoes ...
If the freeze gives us a glitch it will be cool.

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

In his place, I wouldn't look for noon to two o'clock. Why are tomatoes called "solanées" and not "shady"?

Since I read that ... it's boring to me

It seemed to me that you had put a link on the forum where it was more a question of heat and differential of temperature than of sun for the growth of the tomatoes ...

[Did67]

Yes, for flowering and fruiting (that is, producing flowers and fertilizing). Temperatures that are too high can be harmful (especially if there is no night lowering).

But we must be wary of our eyes, which "accommodate". They don't see how much under a tree the light is dimmed. We can see this with a camera by looking at the indications: each time the speed is halved, at constant diaphragm, the amount of light is doubled ... There, we quickly see that the light may even be lacking when we "see very clearly"!

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

Yes, for flowering and fruiting (that is, producing flowers and fertilizing). Temperatures that are too high can be harmful (especially if there is no night lowering).

But we must be wary of our eyes, which "accommodate". They don't see how much under a tree the light is dimmed. We can see this with a camera by looking at the indications: each time the speed is halved, at constant diaphragm, the amount of light is doubled ... There, we quickly see that the light may even be lacking when we "see very clearly"!

Quite ok for the light in the shade ... and the relationship you make with the photo.

But many tomatoes grow in the "shadow" of their own foliage without much hindrance it seems to me ...

And in this case tomatoes are not in the shade all day seems to me ...

It is all the more curious that the tomatoes of the plant REALLY under the shade of Laurent ripen ...

I think rather of a bad cohabitation with a plant or the result of its subterranean gloubi boulga .... or a recalcitrant variety ...

[Did67]

I therefore specify: by "tomato", I meant the tomato base! These are the leaves that photosynthesize, at the origin of the synthesis of sugars that will fill the fruit. And this once "full" (physiological maturity) will decide to emit gases (ethylene) which will make the fruit red (even if it is in the shade of the leaves of the foot!).

So there are differences in the "physiological advancement" of the plants - some feel "full", others not (for various reasons: lack of light, stunted growth, nitrogen hunger).

[Diabolorent]

Some species may also have more difficulty adapting. I noticed that cherry tomatoes, for example, seem to adapt more easily than other types. In order they are the first with the heart of beef to have matured, after came the horned Andines then the romas and finally the rounds (I do not know exactly the name) which are just beginning to blush.

For the plant in the shade in the gloubi boulga I deduce that despite the clutter (rotten planks, dead wood, vine cut and other shrubs) and the lack of sunshine the plan found all the conditions to develop.
It's still out late in the season but it's a warrior
It also tells me that direct sowing has the advantage of not creating a "depression" after transplanting the plants into the ground and facilitating the adaptation and growth of the plan.
Next year I think, as Nico was telling me, try some direct seeding with the seeds collected this year.

Quick question: what can / should be planted for the winter and when?

[Did67]

It also tells me that direct sowing has the advantage of not creating a "depression" after transplanting the plants into the ground and facilitating the adaptation and growth of the plan.
Next year I think, as Nico was telling me, try some direct seeding with the seeds collected this year.

I especially think that the plants which germinated on the spot mycorrhizal very early and keep this advantage, where plants "raised" in pots suffer from the conditions of this "breeding" (watering + fertilization, even if it is natural via the compost / soil , do not encourage the plants to call on the mycorrhizal fungi to help them. And to feed them! To engage in a "symbiosis", therefore a "give-and-take deal", it is necessary to have needs not satisfied - a "lack"! And I am not talking about commercial plants doped with fertilizers and treated against all kinds of potential diseases - rots -, raised in soil "sterilized" by heat treatment or "composting in the standards" !!!]

These stories of mycorrhization struggle to penetrate our view of things. The proof: I continue to make my plants under frames. But I will still evolve: use of the soil of the kitchen garden as a "growing medium", reduction of water inputs ... But it must be recognized that this is quite difficult, the way in which plants and mycorrhizae "recognize" each other, exchange molecules for this purpose (polypeptides - amino acid chains much shorter than proteins / enzymes; we don't waste !!!).

Between precocity and promoting mycorrhization, there is no definitive, perfect solution. What "less bad compromises"!

[Moindreffor]

for my part I try a kind of compromise

I sow in terrine, semi potting soil, and I transplant in large pots of garden soil with a mixture of coffee grounds and old soil of semi, the one that has already support a semi, I will try to add mowing the dried lawn and watering with diluted urine, but here I try to dilute with water from the tray of the gutter where aquatic plants grow, to have nitrifying bacteria and I will wait 3 weeks that the cycle of nitrogen is done to arrive at nitrate (I had forgotten that, it's stupid for an aquarist)

in short, I am in the middle of experimenting for my seedlings

the fact of transplanting in large pots, facts that we can leave the plants much longer, and therefore transplant a more advanced plant, better equipped to defend against slugs or others, so with a little ferramol, it avoids me to have too many plants ravaged, more when the plant is in a larger pot, the root system does not end up occupying the whole pot, I hope to be clear

[Did67]

Another way, indeed. Less lazy, but more "intensive".

For my part, I think that I will banish seedlings and sow in my soil loosened by mole rats (mole hills). In the belief that this is where the germs of the "good" mycorrhizae are. So that the mycorrhization takes place, then continues after planting ....

[Moindreffor]

Another way, indeed. Less lazy, but more "intensive".

For my part, I think that I will banish seedlings and sow in my soil loosened by mole rats (mole hills). In the belief that this is where the germs of the "good" mycorrhizae are. So that the mycorrhization takes place, then continues after planting ....

I do not have any such auxiliaries, but I also think to get there, I will try next year, with my small surface I only have a few plants so even if it gives me more work on 3 or 4 plants of each in the end it is derisory

there to occupy the land I just 20 feet of cabbage, so I expect that they are good to transplant and hop in the kitchen garden, we will see on this 20ain how much will spend the winter, otherwise I will do a semi early for transplant again in the early spring

revive the soil is good, now we must install vegetables that our organisms can feed