Compost juice to water his vegetable garden?

[izentrop]

my initial problem was that a normal compost leaks very nitrogenous juices into the soil. these are nitrates that migrate to rivers or groundwater. I am traumatized by the Amoco cadiz and the pollution of Breton rivers.
with the bokashi, we recover this juice.

Except that if you follow the advice of the notice on bare soil in autumn, with no vegetation around, the nitrates produced by the nitrifying bacteria in the soil could just as well be washed out by winter rains:

you can mix the Bokashi LFJ directly with the soil by raking, or add it to the traditional compost for later use.

for the study, they tested an annual spraying of a juice dosed at 1% on a correctly smoked plot, that makes a dose of 4 liters / ha.
take any chemical fertilizer that you dose at 4 liters / hectare in addition to the usual manure: I challenge you to find a difference in the yield.

Unless you have the link on the complete study which lasted 4 years, the press release that I quoted does not indicate this detail

. Part of the test areas was regularly treated with ME sprays. Another part was treated with the product called "Bokashi"

It is not a question of fertilizer, in the first part of the tests, but of EM-A?

[paysan.bio]

my initial problem was that a normal compost leaks very nitrogenous juices into the soil. these are nitrates that migrate to rivers or groundwater. I am traumatized by the Amoco cadiz and the pollution of Breton rivers.
with the bokashi, we recover this juice.

Except that if you follow the advice of the notice on bare soil in autumn, with no vegetation around, the nitrates produced by the nitrifying bacteria in the soil could just as well be washed out by winter rains:

you can mix the Bokashi LFJ directly with the soil by raking, or add it to the traditional compost for later use.

for the study, they tested an annual spraying of a juice dosed at 1% on a correctly smoked plot, that makes a dose of 4 liters / ha.
take any chemical fertilizer that you dose at 4 liters / hectare in addition to the usual manure: I challenge you to find a difference in the yield.

Unless you have the link on the complete study which lasted 4 years, the press release that I quoted does not indicate this detail

. Part of the test areas was regularly treated with ME sprays. Another part was treated with the product called "Bokashi"

It is not a question of fertilizer, in the first part of the tests, but of EM-A?

EM-A is the basic juice. when you add the sound, it becomes bokashi. when we add organic matter, it becomes bokashi juice.

I do phenoculture, I will not stupidly follow a notice which tells the opposite of what I believe in.
and I don't think we have the right to pollute others when we can do otherwise.

I think I was one of the first farmers in France, even in Europe to use this product.
at a time when it was very difficult to import it.
from the start, there has been this confusion between the dose for therapeutic foliar treatment and use as a fertilizer.
as the product, in therapy, acts mainly as an instant foliar fertilizer which helps the plant to fight against its problem, we confuse the two actions.

you should know that at the start it was not certified organic.
I fought against windmills. I became an opponent of pleasure in the service of bio industrial.
now i show people what i do but i don't try to convince them anymore.

[paysan.bio]

it dates from 2008:

http://paysan-bio.blogspot.fr/2008/04/s ... ystme.html

in the comments I explain how I made my bokashi juice in large black bins.

[paysan.bio]

It is not a question of fertilizer, in the first part of the tests, but of EM-A?

I realize that I have not explained how they biased the study.

they used the possible confusion between EM-I and EM-A.

in 2010, the approved recommendation for field crops was 150 liters of EMA mixed with 450 liters of water.
It sounds great if you don't know that the EM-A is made up of 94% water, 3% molasses and 3% EM-I.
in total, they had 4,5 liters of product / hectare.

to pour a product, you just have to add it to a dilution where it has no chance of working.

you can check the dilutions there:

http://www.em-schweiz.ch/Content/Images ... imiert.pdf

[izentrop]

Hello,

It is not a question of fertilizer, in the first part of the tests, but of EM-A?

I realize that I have not explained how they biased the study.
they used the possible confusion between EM-I and EM-A.

It was I who wrote down EM-A. Does the document refer to "EM sprays"? https://www.admin.ch/gov/fr/accueil/doc ... 36563.html

I see that in your document, the EM-A preparation is very similar to that of the Natural leaven, this is to feed the good bacteria and yeasts. Dehydrated yeasts pick up quickly (bread), but the bacteria will probably be supplanted by the natives and is it desirable to introduce external µorgs which could upset the local balance?
. Besides, some users admit to using lactofermentation juice as a starter. It is even noted that the addition of salt is favorable.

The main thing is that the acidity is maintained until the end of the process to avoid burying rot full of pathogens. We see in the comments that it does not always succeed http://jardincomestible.fr/bokashi-fermentation/

Without this commercial side, this composting method still has its advantages:

• all organic kitchen waste can be composted, not just vegetable waste, but table scraps and meat as well. You compost meats, fish, dairy products, and even cooked food.
• It is an easy composting provided you respect the basics of lactic fermentation https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fermentation_lactique
• It can be done on a small or large scale
• It generally does not produce bad odors
• It produces a material that can be used as a "slow release" fertilizer in your garden
• It works very well as a partnership strategy for composting and vermicomposting
• It can be used to deal with all kitchen waste (even from meat, dairy products, etc.)
• Unlike composting, Bokashi fermentation conserves the energy (no heat loss) of most of the nutrients in the waste.
• the speed of the decomposition process.

http://blog.hortik.com/2014/07/29/le-co ... onctionne/

As feeding the soil is now shown to be the best way to fertilize itThis method, widely used in Asian countries, deserves to be practiced and developed.

Rather than this distribution to the public of badly used composters, why not provide "bokashi" buckets (or another more suitable name) and organize a collection intended for agriculture and market gardening?

[paysan.bio]

Hello,

It is not a question of fertilizer, in the first part of the tests, but of EM-A?

I realize that I have not explained how they biased the study.
they used the possible confusion between EM-I and EM-A.

It was I who wrote down EM-A. Does the document refer to "EM sprays"? https://www.admin.ch/gov/fr/accueil/doc ... 36563.html

I see that in your document, the EM-A preparation is very similar to that of the Natural leaven, this is to feed the good bacteria and yeasts. Dehydrated yeasts pick up quickly (bread), but the bacteria will probably be supplanted by the natives and is it desirable to introduce external µorgs which could upset the local balance?
. Besides, some users admit to using lactofermentation juice as a starter. It is even noted that the addition of salt is favorable.

The main thing is that the acidity is maintained until the end of the process to avoid burying rot full of pathogens. We see in the comments that it does not always succeed http://jardincomestible.fr/bokashi-fermentation/

Without this commercial side, this composting method still has its advantages:

• all organic kitchen waste can be composted, not just vegetable waste, but table scraps and meat as well. You compost meats, fish, dairy products, and even cooked food.
• It is an easy composting provided you respect the basics of lactic fermentation https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fermentation_lactique
• It can be done on a small or large scale
• It generally does not produce bad odors
• It produces a material that can be used as a "slow release" fertilizer in your garden
• It works very well as a partnership strategy for composting and vermicomposting
• It can be used to deal with all kitchen waste (even from meat, dairy products, etc.)
• Unlike composting, Bokashi fermentation conserves the energy (no heat loss) of most of the nutrients in the waste.
• the speed of the decomposition process.

http://blog.hortik.com/2014/07/29/le-co ... onctionne/

As feeding the soil is now shown to be the best way to fertilize itThis method, widely used in Asian countries, deserves to be practiced and developed.

Rather than this distribution to the public of badly used composters, why not provide "bokashi" buckets (or another more suitable name) and organize a collection intended for agriculture and market gardening?

I tried to have a bokashi composting system put in place.
I explained it several times, I am traumatized by the amoco cadiz and the pollution of waters with nitrates in Brittany.
I can't stand to see sillos or compost heaps where the juices are not collected and run straight into the frosted tablecloths.
for me these bad compostings are like nitrates tides and we don't have the right to do that to our children.
I am even co-creator of a resource but I came up against the system adopted by the elected officials of my department: the Tri Mécano Biologique which is a heresy. It is a scandal but there is not much that can be done.
for those who take the southern highway, this is where it stinks so much between valence and tain l'hermitage, the olfactory business card of the Drome.

for preparation: people tend not to put enough bokashi at the start. that's what makes the fermentation fail.
it's like the rest: you learn from your mistakes.

I know many people who make their own bokashi. I did it for a while but I find it easier to simply know how to multiply the ferment of the 80 elements: water, sugar and grenadine.

you have to see that the limit of the use of bokashi is the acidity of the juice that burns the plants.
the trick is to add baking soda to break the acidity but only at the time of use.
hence the famous salt but which is not cooking salt.

[izentrop]

I can't stand to see sillos or compost heaps where the juices are not collected and run straight into the frosted tablecloths.
for me these bad compostings are like nitrates tides and we don't have the right to do that to our children.

It remains very localized around the heap.
If it is summer on non-sandy soil and there is vegetation around, there is little risk. The problem is when it is spread in the fall on land that will spend the winter bare.

for preparation: people tend not to put enough bokashi at the start. that's what makes the fermentation fail.

If the first attempt leads to putrefaction, they give up altogether.

We should start by training people, because it reacts differently depending on the ingredients we throw away, so adding sugar, salt or ferments.

Not enough acid, leads to putrefaction,
Too acidic, fermentation stops (goal sought for food preservation). https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fermentat ... s_aliments

The method does not take because science has not taken a serious interest in it and there is this commercial ulterior motive of selling a compulsory powder controversial by science, precisely.

[Christophe]

For all Parisians and balcony gardener, Didier's great friends (see Agriculture / Didier-and-the-garden-of-lazy-on-c8-c-is-that-de-la-tele-t16031.html ), I just found on facebook: the kitchen composter ...

Certainly way too small (even for a single person) and hello smells if he stays in the kitchen ...

Is the valve at the bottom to draw out the juice?

Composteur_cuisine.jpg (93.88 KiB) Viewed 5853 times

Auto Response after a quick search.

Yes, it is an under draft valve (not to be confused with the beer dispenser eh at 2am! ).

According to a product sheet, 3 days to make compost, I know one who will scream!

Description

A true innovation, the Ecovi® kitchen composter is both compact, odorless and contains no compost worms. Thanks to this kitchen composter, you will no longer need to wait 4 to 6 months (or to use compost worms). In just 3 days, the Ecovi® composter will produce a liquid organic fertilizer and in 3 weeks, a compost very rich in nutrients for plants.

Small and compact, airtight and odorless, fast, without compost worms, this composter puts composting at your fingertips.

Your composter works thanks to micro-organisms which, like you, need a balanced diet. The more you vary the food in your composter, the better the quality of your compost.

Feel free to pre-cut your waste, which will make your compost thinner and easier to use.


Volume (Liter): 20

Main Features

Length (cm): 30
Width (cm): 30
Height (cm): 41
Dimension: L 30.00 W 30.00 H 41.00 cm
Main material: Injected plastic
Composition and description of the material: 70% recycled
Supplied accessories: An extraction tap, a filter, a mixing compressor and a recovery cup. 1kg of Ecovi® activator
Maintenance advice: Wash with lemon water 2 times a year.
Directions for use: 1 tablespoon of activator for each incorporation of waste. Accepted: cooked pasta and rice, fruit / vegetable peelings, leftover cooked vegetables, tea, coffee, vegetables (without stems), crushed egg shells. Avoid: meat, fish, citrus, raw onions, metal, plastic, wood, urine, excrement, litter ...
Specialized recycling: Yes
To be assembled yourself: No
Main color: Beige; Green
Weight of packed product (Kg): 3.50